The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Eastwood fast etch

Has anyone used Eastwood’s Fast Etch. Reason I am asking is the zinc phosphate does not come off. I used Eastwood’s Pre and acetone. Only some of the phosphate came off.

A solvent based cleaner will not effectively remove the ZnPh. Water and soap will be your friends. I am assuming that you applied zinc phosphate to the metal as a pre-primer.

Humidity is back in Maryland. ZnPh was used to stop the surface rust.

When it dries, it tends to leave a light powdery residue or zinc layer.

That residue prevents good primer adhesion therefore it’s best to remove it. However…, (and this has worked for me… try it on scrap…):

I apply the ZnP and keep it wet , build up a couple coats and eventually it will lightly adhere to the metal without the powdery coat, and dry as a nice coating (and not as the powder residue.)

I have successfully primed over that with good adhesion.

If humidity is becoming a problem - rubbing down with alcohol will remove any possible moisture, or a light rub down with lacquer thinner just prior to priming too. Eastwood’s “ Pre” will assist with that after you prime or before laying down the topcoat.

So I did go out today and try your suggestion which was use soap and water. I mixed up some Dawn and water in a spray bottle and wash a 2'sq spot on the back of the cab. It did come off leaving a hint of fast etch.

I also use the zinc Ph as a wet/dry paper lubricant when a project seems to not be a complete strip the old paint off to bare metal, but rather smaller sheetmetal items that have had scratches or paint rub off - and surface rust has appeared.

This saves a lot of time - working the Zn Ph in through the grits and blending the scratched perimeters to the existing paint areas.

It’s then a matter of touch up with primer, sand and blend again, then overspray the entire item or piece with topcoat paint. Of course test a small area to ensure the topcoat won’t lift or crinkle the old paint. If it does…oh, well it would have been a strip, fill, prime and paint project then.

Using the ZnPh with the grits on the rusted area works it into the small divots and is happily offloading ions and working through an over my head chemical reaction where electrons are being gained, and someone somewhere did the math through a balancing equation; joyously etching away as you work on other areas.

I am doing this now on an antique drill press cover but have had great results on engine valve covers and similar sheetmetal items including AD dashboards.

Up here in NH, a little warmth and humidity would be welcomed. Snow on the ground yet. Winters are long, and the spring slow.

Take care.

Tom

Thanks Tom. I will heat the shed to lower the humidity. Wash with soap and water. Followed by acetone. Apply epoxy.