The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Moving radiator pics

Hey everyone. Had to purchase a new radiator and it runs into a clearance issue between the fan and the new radiator. I have read that there are two options, 1) get a short shaft fan or 2) move the radiator forward. I would like to pursue the later option of moving the radiator forward but would like some pictoral wisdom. If anyone has done this and can post a picture that would be greatly appreciated!

What make/size/year engine?

There is a 235/261 relocation plate plate that allows you to use a 1955st and earlier water pump.

Apologies, 1948 Chevy 3800 with 216.

The clearance issue that you are referring to stems from replacing the 216 with a later model 235 (56-62). The 235’s water pump is mounted too low for effective cooling and the pump shaft is also too long causing interference with the radiator.

Your 48 216 with a stock water pump should not be interfering with the radiator. You newly purchased radiator may be the issue.

If you still want to pursue moving the radiator, you can move it to the front of the radiator support, but you will need to cut the hood latch panel to allow clearance for the radiator. I’ve included some picture of that setup as my truck came to me that way. I have since restored it to the stock setup.

If you still have the high water pump 216 then there is a problem with the radiator and I would contact the vendor about it. You don't want to unnecessarily chop up the sheet metal to make it fit. Also, as pictured in Phak1's photos you should run a heavy reinforcement across the front of the radiator. On the 1-tons the brace that's been cut out is a structural member. The whole of the front sheet metal hangs on that hoop the radiator bolts to, which is supported on the frame in one place at the bottom.

I suppose the "let's move it forward" thing was popular in the past. My truck was modified in that way sometime. The truck is on it's third engine.

As requested, here are some pix. I replaced the rad and added a piece of angle iron across the top to provide more strength. I didn't like to think of the radiator as being used as a structural member.

The aluminum rad is different from the stock one: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...fferences-from-original.html#Post1312967

Thank you for the information. I was noticing that the upper part of the radiator mount is structural. I have put in for a return on the new radiator and if they accept I'll find a different one or recore my current one. If they don't let me return it I will trim the top and add a support bracket on either side.

It was mush easier to cut the top radiator support to eliminate the interference when replacing the engine then weld it back in, than to wrestle the engine in and out. Some didn’t bother to weld them back in as in my case. The later 235 replacement was popular because of the full oil pressure and replaceable insert bearings, as well as it being readily available in junk yards. Again it was much easier and cheaper to move the radiator forward then to shorten (or buy) the 235 water pump. The water pump adaptor plate to relocate the 216 water pump (so it doesn’t interfere with the radiator) and so it sits in the middle of the radiator, invented by fellow ‘bolter “Pre 68 Dave”, wasn’t available until recently.

There is a vendor who sells on eBay who carries an aluminum radiator which looks just like the original brass radiator. They fit like a glove and the last one I bought cost $200.00 to my door.

If you have a new radiator that won't clear a 216 or early 235, somebody has sold you the wrong part. If they won't accept a return, let me know- - - -I've got a couple of projects that could use an aftermarket part- - - -a run-in stand for new engines, and possibly a trailer mounted dyno setup.
Jerry

Carl, mind sharing a link?

Here's one of several Ebay listings with similar prices. Not sure which company Carl is referring to.

www.ebay.com/itm/266190750094?

Jerry

Heres one the looks exactly like the original. Painted black, you couldn’t tell the difference. https://www.ebay.com/itm/384278535671

That link Phil posted looks pretty good. price isn't bad, either. I've never seen an aluminum radiator constructed like that. Normally they're all square edged, ugly welds, home-made looking things which look completely wrong under the hood of old cars.

Agree with Phil that some black paint would pretty well hide the fact that it's not an original radiator.

Just wondering out loud, but my mind is asking why the seller put the comment "V8 ENGINES ONLY !!!!" starting with the '53 3800 truck (and all earlier years) listed in the application chart???

Does it provide too much cooling capacity for a 216/235/261, or is it possibly related to the clearance from fan issue we run into when installing later 235/261 engines in the earlier Ad trucks???

Dan

I bought this one off Ebay and it is a little different in that it sets the bottom of the radiator forward a little. I'm using a 235 in a 47. I shortened my pump and installed a shorter pulley. Lots of room between fan and radiator. If I paint it black it looks like the original brass radiator.

I would post the one I purchased but it appears that with our heavy interest in radiators all of ebay is down....But I did verify that my year, make, model, and engine size were listed in the applications list. The ad said returns are valid within 90 days but in the FAQ page it says we don't accept returns.... Messaged the seller twice, and if I don't hear anything I will contact claims. I believe the reason why I am having this issue is the radiator I purchased is the full depth of the upper reservoir while my previous radiator (which had a very small clearance) is not the full depth...see pic of my old radiator.

I may be able to mount my new one just on the backside of the mount and possible have the clearance and not have to cut anything....

The V/8 notation in the add is due to the fact that the top hose fitting is 1 1/2 inch and bottom hose fitting is 1 3/4 inch on these radiators. Older engines use 1 ¼ inch top and 1 1/2-inch bottom. This can be overcome by using a hose with two different sized ends for the bottom hose (available from some vendors such as Classic Parts # 82-125 ) For the top you can replace the thermostat housing for a later model that is 1 ½ inch. There have been some radiators on Ebay in the past with the smaller lower opening but not lately.

Thanks, that is some very helpful information!

I missed seeing those dimension details when I read the ad "too quickly".

Dan

I have purchased the radiator indicated in the post by Phak1 I was pleasantly by surprised by the thickness of the aluminum in the tanks and the overall quality. The only concern was the packing. The cardboard box seemed very brittle and was slightly damaged when it arrived. Fortunately, the rad was OK

One other issue for some, is the aluminum radiator is straight across the bottom tank while the 1953 and older original bottom tank has a V notch in the center of the bottom tank for the hand crank to clear the radiator. I did not like the radiator cap that was included with the rad I bought (replaced with 4lb cap). My installation is in a 1954 1/2 ton with a 1957 261 engine. I am using Pre '68 Dave's pump relocation plate and an older style pump to move the fan up higher on the radiator core. Thank you, Pre '68 Dave, for your great solution to the installation problem of a newer style engine.

When the original radiator shook apart at the seams between the tank and core, and the soldered on mount also came loose, I found a 3" radiator in a wrecking yard and put that in my 1-ton. No more cooling problems for many years till the t'stat failed. Not only is the core thicker but the tank is bigger too.

I was advised by an old timer at that time NOT to bolt the radiator in with all six bolts. He said "two on one side and one on the other will let it work so the shaking in the sheet metal won't rip it apart." I did that. I am now an old timer and I've not had that failure since -- going on 50 years. Not such a big deal on half tons but there is a reason the front sheet metal is bolted to the frame in one place at the center on the bigger trucks. The frame twists quite a bit on rough ground and everything bolted to it must accommodate that motion. On trucks with serious power, the engine torque twists the frame a couple of inches. Watch a semi pulling off from a stop sign sometime. Many trucks I've worked on had the whole shebang mounted on springs held down with castle nuts and cotter pins. Rubber cab mounts too.

Well, great news. The vendor is taking back my radiator and issuing a refund! I also was able to soak the radiator in vinegar for about 20 mins and cleared up my clogging issue so now I can still use my old radiator too!

Good news on all fronts! Thanks for the update!