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#1494459 03/29/2023 8:44 PM
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 200
8
nothing beats a try but a failure
nothing beats a try but a failure
8 Offline
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 200
I’m on to the soldered joints on the driver’s side. The A pillar to the roof and the A pillar to the cowl will need to be welded after removing the solder. I will fill the top joint with weld. But, after welding the bottom there still be large a depression. I’m not sure what to finish filling the joint with. What have you all done to fix this joint?
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1955.1 3600 5 window 4 speed all original except the 410 gears.
In the Project Journal
87GN #1494469 03/29/2023 10:02 PM
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
The joint was already welded at the factory (a lapped joint held with spot welds), so unless you're seeing it broken loose, you don't need to weld anything. If you want to remove the lead, do that and use body filler on the joint. I left the lead in place on mine and did what little touch up that was necessary with body filler. Be sure you have the lead clean before applying anything over it, including primer or filler.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
87GN #1494506 03/30/2023 12:29 AM
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,270
I welded in a sheet metal patch in there to fill that deep depression and ground it smooth. Very little body filler was needed. I was not comfortable with using a big honking chunk of Bondo in that cavernous crater, given the small fortune to be paid to my painter.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 10,997
Originally Posted by 52Carl
I welded in a sheet metal patch in there to fill that deep depression and ground it smooth. Very little body filler was needed. I was not comfortable with using a big honking chunk of Bondo in that cavernous crater, given the small fortune to be paid to my painter.
That's another option. Lots of guys seem to think leaving the lead in place is bad, but it has lasted over 70 years so far. ohwell


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 200
8
nothing beats a try but a failure
nothing beats a try but a failure
8 Offline
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 200
Leaving the lead is my path. I am interested in filler with strands. The crater is deep.


1955.1 3600 5 window 4 speed all original except the 410 gears.
In the Project Journal

Moderated by  klhansen 

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