The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Park Brake Spring Extender

Hey Everybody,

Quick question, but first the facts: 1953 3100 stock brakes/park brake setup. I'm looking for the park brake spring extender. No one, that I can find, sells just the extender. The extender only comes as a part of the whole kit with the actual rod, clevis, spring and extender. I saw in a previous post that some have made their own extenders. It's just a simple piece of wire bent into shape and the correct length. My question is what kind of wire would be stiff enough to hold the shape through operation of the spring, which I read is pretty stiff. Alternatively, if someone knows a source for just the extender, that would be helpful, too.

Thanks!

You should be able to buy spring wire at a well-stocked hardware store. Or you could use a coathanger.

I had thought about coat hanger wire, but wasn't sure if it would hold the shape or not. I'll give it a try and see if I can tackle the job....

Not those thin coat hangers. Get one of the thick ones that hurts your fingers to bend it.

Roger that, Otto! I found one in the closet that is pretty stout. I may create ithe extender so that I can wrap the ends around the middle, once it is installed on the rod. Probably create a loop for the spring to attach to.

Interesting side note: the original park brake spring extender from my truck ws 11" long, not 8 3/4" as mentioned in other posts. The shorter extender is from the regular brake pedal. I'll try to fashion my new extender to match what came off of my truck. Maybe it'll make attaching the spring a little easier than what others have reported.

Hey Everybody,

Here's the initial try at making the spring extender. The first pic shows just bending the coat hangar wire. The second shows the same wire with a loop on the end. My concern is that the coat hangar wire will unbend under the stress of the spring. The thought with what's in the second pic is that once the open end was inserted through the tab on the park brake rod, I would then wrap it around itself to lock it in place. The loop end would have the open loop of the spring inserted into it.

OK, thoughts? Should I upgrade to the spring wire? I'm really not sure how durable the coat hangar wire would be. Totally open to suggestions. Let 'em rip!

Thanks!

Personally I think it will be fine. Twisting it into a loop can't hurt but probably not necessary. I think I would use those electrical wire splice sleeves instead of the loop bend, though.

https://www.amazon.com/PRODUCTS-DP-2-3-100-Splicing/dp/B000BD5DBC

A tighter bend in your coat hanger should help resist unbending. A sharp angle from the running part of the extender keeps the force closer to it (less leverage.) Otto's crimp sleeve would work well to form a loop.

I'll try to find some crimp sleeves locally, maybe Tractor Supply.... I'll also make the loop tighter. What about the choice of metal? I still feel a little unsure about its strength (tensile strength???).

I think coat hangers are actually pretty tough. They're better than bailing wire, which has probably served the same purpose in the past.

Test of tighter bend radius. Is this closer to what I need?

I was thinking of all of the "field" repairs that may have been made in the past. I'm over thinking it....

Gray Ghost,

Those "crimp sleeves" are most often found in with wire rope and chain stuff in most hardware stores.

Dan

Dan, thanks! I've never used them, so I didn't know! Do they require a special tool to make the crimp?

Gray Ghost,

I have used a pair of vise grips to crimp them. Just a squeeze will do usually. Crushing pressure will usually split them as they are made of aluminum. You could use something else, but no need to buy a special tool

NOTE: Wire terminal crimpers, although they look like a good idea, don't really work (don't ask me how I know - haha!).

Dan

I have always called those "crimp sleeves" Nicopress sleeves. Yes, there is a proper tool and I have found it a good investment.

When I use them for electrical (house) work, I use lineman's pliers to crimp them. The wiring tools sometimes have the right shape crimper jaws for them as well.

Great ideas! I'm excited to try them. Give me a little break from busting rust and welding sheet metal...at least for a couple of minutes!

I use steel TIG welding feed wire from a welding shop. It is very stiff and is coated with something which is rust resistant and takes paint very well.

Didn't have time to go shopping this morning, but had enough to take another swing at the coat hanger. This one may be close. It's about 1/2" shorter than the original, but has the hooks oriented correctly. Thoughts?

Looks fine. Don't overthink it. Hook it up and move on to the next repair.

Roger that. Back to the sheet metal.... First bending and test fit of the new hinge reinforcement. Will write up for the journal soon.

Next time your at a junkyard take a good pair of line mans pliers and snip off the top section of a radio antenna. It's stainless steel, won't break when bent sharply, and is at least ten times as strong as coat hanger.

If you are referring to the hook that attaches to the spring and the control rod I would make one from â…›" steel rod that you can purchase at Lowes. Home Depot or ACE Hardware. Hope you have the old one. If not let me know and Ill measure the one on our 1948 3110 Chevy truck and provide it to you. If you need this I need a day to get to the truck. https://www.classicparts.com/ kit p/n is 71-891 (1947-54) *Emergency Brake Control Rod

Coilover, another great idea! Texas A&M, thnx for the offer, but I do have the remnants of the old one. The park brake spring extender from my truck was 11", while the regular brake spring extender was 8 3/4". So they definitely are different! As mentioned above, I'm going with my last iteration of the extender for the time being. If it doesn't work or last, I'll come back to these ideas and try again. Thanks everyone! You all are the greatest!