The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop 46 1/2 ton windshield frame seal replacement

Have any of you replaced the windshield frame to cab seal? Any tips or difficulties I should be aware of?

Go with Steele Rubber product - cheaper junk is impossible to work with. Steele will recommend the correct adhesive for the butt joint

Bob,

Just a note that I am going to move this conversation over to the Paint and Body Shop for further conversation and help with your question.

Thanks,

Dan

buoymaker it appears that maybe the frames in the links are not the tip out style windshield on my 46? I have a one piece rubber seal from chevysofthe40's web site.

Bob,

I think there may be some confusion on which "seal" is being discussed here.

I think you originally referred to the seal that goes around the outer perimeter of the windshield frame that seals it to the cab opening, yes/no/maybe so (this item below)???

https://www.steelerubber.com/windshield-weatherstrip-60-0447-50

The Tech Tip pictures may lead you to think what is being discussed is the gasket that surrounds the actual glass panes inside the steel frame sections, but I think it is also talking about the outer perimeter seal.

This info (below) from the tech tips (I think?) does address your question about replacing the outer seal material and should prove helpful.

"After the frames were separated, I dug out the remaining rubber on the outer frames channels. I carefully removed the glass and headed to the glass shop.

The glass shop installed and sealed the glass in the frames and joined the two pieces with new connecting bars and screws but they would not install the rubber gasket that goes around the frame. I asked for some tips and I was told to spray the rubber and frame channel with Windex and they gave me a long narrow-tipped plastic tool to use for pushing the rubber in as I go.

The rubber I bought had glued ends and that is a good feature because you can get it not glued so when you get it installed, there are no issues. I found it to be fairly easy to install it using Windex but in places the rubber was loose in the channel, which would allow water to get in the channels and it would leak. So after some thought, I'd try it with some 3M super seal weatherstrip and gasket adhesive so I removed the rubber and was starting over."

Interested to hear back on your further thoughts/questions.

Dan

I bought this seal from steele Rubber, you push the rubber into the slot with a plastic or ptfe wedge, easy to do

steeles rubber part number 70-0057-52

gdads51 and sssammm, thanks for your input. It's exactly what I needed. Yes I'm replacing the outer seal from the frame to the cab. I purchased a glued end seal from chevys of the 40's. I've been told to use boiled linseed oil to lubricate the installation into the track using the push tools you both mentioned. The linseed oil then dries and becomes a sealer as well inside the track. I'm waiting on my clutch screw bits to arrive before I can disassemble the windshield from the cab. I also plan to figure out how those wipers work once in the access panel.

Just finished the seal installation today. Tough job. Getting ALL of the old crusty rubber out of the channel after removing the bulk of the original seal is not easy. Then, stuffing the new one in place is quite a task as well. Better have patience and strong hands and forearms. The boiled linseed oil worked great. Surely helped the new rubber slip into the channel. I would advise removing the frame from the truck to do this job. I started out thinking I wouldn't need to. That lasted about 5 minutes into the install...