The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Engine questions about a 1958, 261.

Are all gaskets the same as the 235, except for the head gasket on the 261? Where is the best palce to get a gasket set, online, or at the auto parts stores?

I also need the oil lines for the external filter?

I need to locate the three (rings) that are between the intake manifold and the head, I am not sure what they are called. I am missing one.

Any advide will be greatly appreciated.

Gaskets I buy locally at a mom & pop parts store. Felpro brand only. Difference for the 261 is steam holes.

Oil lines can be bought from a hose dealer, as long as you know what you want. You can also have them custom made, or they can be ordered from an aftermaket dealer.

Intake manifold rings need to be bought through an aftermarket dealer.

The oil lines are 1/2" NPT, and are the same as most parts stores sell for oil filter relocation kits. I used jiffy hose from Mr. Gasket on mine, easy and works pretty good.

Let me share some of my not so good experience with the oil lines of my 58...261.

Can't say if all blocks are the same but mine has 1/2 NPT holes in the block.... in them holes are two large brass fittings that allows the flares 1/2 steel line to be connected... the lines in turn convert ot a factory crimped 1 inch rubber line which has tapered pressure fittings that connects to the large cannister filter bolted to the intake manifold...... Now am I decribing your 261???

Now it would be easy to strip the whole thing and screw in the brass NPT that has the ringed brass tube to hold. with a clamp, the 1/2 inch rubber line.....but.... on the return line... the large brass fitting that allows the flared coupling to go in has a tapped special opening/feature that allows the 1/8 mechanical oil pressure line to be connected......

My problem is if I remove the GM brass fittings I will loose the oil pressure connection....if I keep them I am having a hard time getting a hydaulic shop that will flare me a 1/2 inch steel line..... I do not want to chop up the original GM lines and would prefer long steel lines that will cope better with the heat of the close by exhaust pipe..... I believe that is why GM had them that way in the first place.

One solution would be to connect my mechanical oil pressure gauge somewhere else on the block of the 261....any suggestions where I might find a ready outlet...????

Bob C.

I drilled and tapped the housing of my oil filter to accept the oil pressure line fitting. I drilled it on the top so it hit within the center (outlet) section of the filter so I could read the pressure after the filter.
It has held up fine so far.
I have the original 1962 oil filter can. I had to move it to the front of the intake manifold to clear the steering box, hence the need for new lines.

On my 261'a I sold the original cannisters, bought remote filter adapters ,and used a brass tee on the oil feed to the block from the filter to hook up the oil gauge.I mount the filter head on the unused motor mount holes just aft of the generator or alternator.Takes a common PF-2 AC filter and it's down out of the way.A plus is the hoses don't drain after shutdown like on a higher filter mount.
Recenty I installed Russell braided hoses on one truck after I heard a stories of the cheaper hoses failing after 5 years.Cost 120 bucks for both trucks, cheap insurance.

RAC1812,

I did something similar to what Truckedup describes (but I mounted the remote filter on the firewall). The original, polished-brass fittings are impressive and worth trying to save/use.

I do not have the metal "standoffs" on the block side of the oil lines and have had no problems (but they are a good idea).

Tim

[img]http://home.nycap.rr.com/lederman/images/OilFilter2.jpg[/img]

A large tee fitting to replace the GM original part...now why did I not thinkof that....... or drill and tap one of the elbows..... genius....

My engine compartment is sooooo small and tigth I have to move the filters to the original factory spot...underneath inside the frame on the left hand side....remember my truck is right hand drive. Eventually the cab and engine was modified with more room and GM moved the filter next to the manifold as high as the carb....claiming that engine heat prevented water condensation inside the filter can. The original fiflter was a fram type senior size filter mounted sideways inside the frame..... made for easy wiping of the cannister when cahnging the filter and garanteed an oil bath to the mechanic changing it...... I intend to use a double remote spin-on for convenience and ease of maintenance......

Bob C.

Thanks to all who replied. Changing over to a more modern oil filter set-up is a great idea!!!!