I believe that these may be an oil filter? There is a single line running from the block to the bottom of this cannister but the single other line that comes out is blocked off? I tried to remove the top bolt but could not take the top of the cannister off. ????
However, a blocked off line (you didn't say which line is blocked) makes this non-functional.
Could be the blocked line (port?) was blocked because the line between the filter and engine failed???
More pictures of the existing line, drivers side of the engine block in oil line vicinity and blocked line/port would be helpful.
Next step for this conversation is probably to move it to the The Engine Shop for further discussion.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I will take another photo of the blocked line out of the top, but that is possible. The line from the block to the bottom of the oil can looks newish, so where does the other line that comes out of the top go to?
As suggested by Gdads51, gonna move this discussion to the Engine Shop. Will get better discussion there.
~ Peggy M 1949 Chevrolet 3804 "Charlie" - The Stovebolt Flagship In the Gallery "We make a living by what we get; we make a life by what we give." -- Winston Churchill
While you wait for others to provide input on your question, check out this existing tech tip on Oil Filters.
Some really great info directly on your topic.
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
The lid has a habit of sticking to the gasket under it. Loosen the center bolt and give the rim of the lid a few gentle taps with a hammer. It's spring loaded, so don't remove the bolt all the way until it comes unstuck. A new filter element will come with a replacement gasket, and it requires a pretty firm torque on the center bolt to prevent leaks when you install the new filter cartridge. Flex lines for a grease gun work well instead of buying somebody's outrageously expensive "original equipment replacement" lines. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
This will help you route the lines. The line connected toward the rear of the block is the pressure line (inlet to the filter.) The one toward the center of the block is a drain port back to the crankcase. There's a metering port toward the top of the standpipe inside the filter canister that keeps the whole thing from draining down.
It sounds like the supply line to your filter has been blocked. It connects at the same place where your oil pressure gauge is tapped in, using a tee fitting.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Thank you all for the information. Please take a look at another photo I took of the engine bay. Looks like the previous owners return line broke and they just blocked it off.
That actually looks like the supply line. Take a look at Kevin’s installation instructions and you can confirm.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
The line that is broken at top side of the filter canister is the "inlet" or "feed-line" which was connected to the T-fitting where your existing oil pressure gauge line is connected (towards the rear of the engine and visible in your picture with what looks like a yellow hex nut plug).
The "return" line is the one connected to the bottom of the filter housing and then connected to the further forward oil port on the engine side (located directly behind the exhaust pipe).
Dan
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Change both lines. A broken or leaky flex line will empty the crankcase in a matter of minutes, and unless the oil happens to be spraying on the exhaust pipe, creating clouds of stinky smoke, you won't know it until the oil pressure drops and the rods start knocking. Those lines get as hard as woodpecker lips and very brittle with age. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!