The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 53 Chev engine, engine stand mounting

I just lost my post, so I am not sure if these questions will be here twice.
The block was cracked by a moron that put water in the engine and only drained the rad. They tried to hot wire the truck to move it without my knowledge. I have a block repair kit that CAT recommends for block repair so I have pulled the engine and would like to get it running again.

1. Can the engine be held by the bell housing with flywheel and clutch on an engine stand that has just the four bolts at the rear by attaching to the transmission mount? This seems like a lot of leverage on the bell housing in a small foot print.
2. If I built a stand to hold the front of the front mount of the engine as well, can the engine be started in the stand? I don't want to put the engine back in until it is working.
3. There are two bolts holes on the top of the bell housing that have no bolts but there are threads in the block. I has been about 45 years since I put the engine in originally and I can't remember there being bolts or not.

Thanks for any advice

First, welcome to the ‘bolt! Spend a little time and introduce yourself in the “Welcome Center” forum. Tell us a bit about yourself and your truck. We bolters love pictures so include a few. Instructions on how to post images are on the bottom of the left margin on this page.

Now on to your question. Remove the bellhousing clutch and pressure plate. The engine is long and too heavy for a standard engine stand as it is, and your right about too much leverage. Even with removing the bellhousing, clutch and pressure plate you need a good stout 4 wheeled engine stand (no cheap HF three wheeled stand) or you’ll risk the engine tipping over to the floor and possibly injuring yourself in the process. Engine stands are made to turn so you can work on the bottom end easily. Run stands are just that, made for running the engine. Buy a decent engine stand and then you can fab up an engine run stand. Good luck

You'll have to remove the flywheel as well, as it covers up the mounting bolts for the bell housing. What the other guys said about using at least a 4 wheel engine stand. I got two of them and modified them into a cab rotisserie and also used them as a frame rotisserie. When I was done with that, I shortened the upright on one to put my engine on it. Since it had a custom length lower bar, I made sure the front wheels were at the front of the engine, and I had also widened the track on the rear wheels because I didn't want the cab tipping either. I had also built an engine cart where the engine now sits. It would be possible to run it on that stand. See the attached pic.

Depending on where that crack is, you may need to source another engine. But it's worth a try on your epoxy repair. I'm sure they have instructions to get the cracked area CLEAN.

Thank you, I went out and took a lot of pictures. I posted info in the new member forum but will include that in a new post "45 Chev Panel 53 block cracked".

Bob

Thank you. I will make a new post with pictures I just took. That is good information and very helpful.

Bob

Engine on dolly with transmission attached. Not a great angle, but you get the idea.

blewis 9991 If you run your engine on the stand watch out for torque upsetting your outfit,if you punch it will torque over there. There blewis...see those mig tracks all over klhansen's engine stand ?? He knows how to fix em up !! My 261 looks just about like that out there in the cold...waiting...waiting...hmm.

Thanks for the heads up about the torque. I will mod the engine balance bar to hold the block on the side mounts and leave hanging it on the overhead beam by a come along when I start it.

blewis 9991 Someplace I was around a truck with the hood off,they tied onto something to pull it out don't remember,what I do remember is how that engine jumped around while they pulled. Maybe we were hunting for a broken engine mount. It'll also make the clutch chatter.