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I posted this over in other online sources when I ran across it, but I am getting pretty serious about buying it and had a couple questions.

https://bid.pickettauctions.com/auctions/7691/lot/11320-B-216-1959-Chevy-Viking-60-Dump-Truck

Question # 1: Does the vin tag look right/legit? From the decoder over at Old Chevy Trucks, the tag should be stainless and spot welded on (check). The fact that the first 6 is a different font than the last one concerns me.

Other than that, I think it decodes to a 2 ton 1959 6400 built in Oakland.

Question #2: Does the GVW tag seem correct/original? The remaining rivet looks right/original to me, but I can't find any reference to a 19,000lb max GVW in the vehicle information kit. The 156" wheelbase does correspond to the vin decoding.

More general questions: are there any particular big bolt parts that are particularly hard to come by/expensive that I should check the condition of?

Does anyone with more big bolt experience see any giant red flags that I should consider?

Both tags look good to me...

The 6000 Series trucks could have a GVW of 21,000 max, so 19,000 is good.

The body/chassis serial number plate were made with the year, plant and a consecutive unit number starting with 100001. When the cars and trucks came down the line the Series/Model numbers were then stamped onto the tag and attached to the vehicle, that's why the fonts are different, two different machines were used.

RED FLAGS to me would be the RH-5 Widow Maker rims...the were outlawed decades ago and you won't find any shop willing to work on them. The good news is this truck has 6-lug Budd's and those 20" tube type rims can be replaced with 22.5" tubeless rims which can still be found in big truck junk yards. Six new rims and new tires will set you back somewhere between $2k and $3k.

Just go at it with your eyes wide open, owning a big truck is not for the faint of heart...takes deep pockets with NO return on you investment.

Mike B

Thanks for the heads up on the RH5s. I couldn't tell from the pictures.

I borrow a dump truck from my buddy a couple times a year, so I *could* justify it, but it probably doesn't actually make sense.

The tag difference makes sense too. Thanks for the help!

Makes perfect sense, you need it and it's not that far away from you...

Truck looks real good, better than mine and I'm having a great time with it.

Fibonachu Tags look fine,try to decide if it has 142,000 miles,widow makers are a concern. I have a set of 4 that I never take chances with,top-off with a long air hose,about 40 pounds. Haul 8000 with it 15000 total, look for major rust around door hinge area. If it has brakes service the booster,if you get it i'll tell you how it's easy. Hope you can see it live,if any good price will climb. Frankly my 51 6400 made into a pickup has been the most fun of the about 30 i've had in over 50 years, it was a pretty clean truck but was used for real 119,000 so far. Good Luck !! Welp may be 242,000 these things are a disease,that thrown rubber means gotta deal with at least one wheel,all rubber is far gone in age. Could use it local but not a hiway mobil and wouldn't trust it loaded !! I've dragged em home just like that,be sure you can sleep in it !!!!! LOL Well that frontal view is enough to take you out,needing a good home in fact reminds me of a fleet I once took care of good trucks !

Fibonachu Well it's a fresh day,you said any red flags. Looks like it's all there,is it running or will it at least turn over ?? If it turns over good chance you can save it,look for chocolate milk oil,see if shifter goes in all gears,shake pinion for too much slop,radiator look for oil,freeze cracks,try that lever brake,look at hoist if it has one and it does has a name I never heard of. See if it's a 261 big oil filter hook-up on the drivers side,captains bars,848 head, just stuff !!

Pay attention to the trans brake and ensure all parts are there. Most of those parts cant be had anymore and are hard to locate in junkyards. Its arguably the most important system on the truck.

The radiator support likes to hold water at the lower center where it attaches to the front crossmember and tends to rot out. Replacements don't exist so there may be some fab-work to repair it depending on the condition. Outer fenders are unobtanium, but those look in decent shape from the photos. The rear of the drive side fender has what appears to be bailing wire wrapped around something. May want to take a closer look at that.

The bed floor looks pretty well shot, so depending on intended use for the truck, you may need to factor in fresh boards and cross beams for the bed. If the bed floor is that bad, then the beams are no better and need replaced as well.

Looks like a new fuel pump on the truck and the driver rear wheel seal is bad, but it only appears to be a seep, so factor in some axle work.

Not a bad looking unit, and appears to be complete. Interesting fold down bed side design as well. I would assume for livestock?

I think the sides fold down to make a wider flatbed for carrying hay bales.

I would plan on replacing the bed. I want a rolldeck, but I don't think that frame/suspension are hefty enough for that. It does run and drive as-is. The RH5s would go immediately.

Good to know about the trans brake parts being unavailable.

I think the passenger fender is repairable.

Lots of good info here. Thanks!

Vin tags didn't happen till some time in the 70's I think it was. No such thing as a vin tag on a task force truck period.
But yeah all info looks good, why not photo the whole data plate? For paint code etc.

Fibonachu I went out Friday to check out a few other things at Pickets and took a look. It appears to be in good shape and the trans brake looked like it was all there. Don't know if it was completely functional as I just started to listen to engine. Might have a use for the 261 in another project.

It's still sitting at $360 as I type this. Engine along is worth more that. Would be nice to see it rolling down US 20/26 or Highway 44 Tuesday morning to begin a new life.

Although the term Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) didn't happen until 1968 with some standardization of serial numbers and then becoming the 17 digits in 1981 that we have today, ALL Chevrolet cars and trucks did have a unique serial numbers from the very beginning. That number can/could be called that vehicles identification number...many States used that serial number on their title while others used the engine serial number.



The entire data plate is pictured, you need to click on the 9 little squares in the lower right corner to make the line of thumb nails go away in order to see the bottom of the pictures...his data numbers are all there.

Mike B

If anyone else wants to jump on this, I can't justify it right now. It would be a great deal of fun and is a good price, but I should focus on the projects I already have.

$510 with less than a day left.

HFFarms Saw your post on tranny brake to make sure it's all there and it is arguably the most important system on the truck. Do you think a 200$ one is reasonable ?? It's covered up (from weather ) by floor board tin. It's right down on the ground and I think has 2 bolts up in the bell housing that'll make harvesting tougher. This is the whole gear box with that brake.

OK, so I'll argue about the parking brake system being the most important one on a truck. That could be true with an automatic transmission truck, but I drive a manual tranny as my daily driver and rarely use the parking brake. Leaving it in gear with the engine off works pretty well except on the steepest hills. And if need be a pair of wheel chocks will help for the times you need the engine running while stopped, although it's tough to install those singlehandedly (you have to be QUICK ).