The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The HiPo Shop Brake Pedal Repositioning

I am a two footed driver and looking to add space between brake pedal and gas pedal after removing clutch pedal. P.O. converted my ‘57 3200 to TH350 automatic. Anybody aware of aftermarket brake pedal arm that repositions the pad farther to the left? I’m reluctant to cut OEM arm and bolt on something, but if that’s the only way, I will.

DES57,

Going to move your post over to the HiPo Shop for more conversation as it's more on-topic in there than here.

BTW - Take a look at the "EdPruss" post here: https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...-instrument-panel-brace.html#Post1490843 as I think he has a solution (maybe) to what you are trying to do???

Looking forward to see more on your conversation.

Dan

Do you have the stock master cylinder under the floor? If so, you are going to have a rough time shifting the arm to the left.

Are you willing to move the master cylinder to the firewall? You are limited in how far to the left it can mount because of the inner fender clearance, but you can point the arm over to the side to add a bit more space.

I’m thinking of chiseling rivets off, drilling new holes in pad plate, and potentially new holes in arm and using bolts/nuts/lock washers/blue Loctite to reinstall.

DES57 You could cut the pedal off of the curved padal shaft and move it over to the left,weld it bck on. Use 7018 get a good weld. You can easily unbolt the pedal stem,get it on your welding table. I done one a while back worked good.

fixite7 Thanks for the idea, but my welding skills aren’t the best so I lean toward drill and bolt. My welding is limited to a drag for mole hills in the yard. I wouldn’t trust it for anything on the truck. 🥴

DES57 You must have a welding shop someplace in your town,or neighbors that weld,I guess it wouldn't hurt some of our welders to help. Need a neat job on it so a AD pedal pad will still fit it.

DES57, I did exactly what you're thinking of doing here. It worked out great , it was on a F@#d so no pictures of it here. I would suggest you use a carriage bolt or maybe a counter sunk head to allow the pedal pad to seat properly.

TUTS 59, I think there’s room for the hexhead clearance but a cleaner look would be “M8x25mm Rivet Countersunk Hex Socket Cap Bolts and Hex Head Barrel Nuts” but I’m not sure about the strength compared to Grade 8 bolts. I’ll have to research it.
Fixite7, I do have a brother-in-law about 15 minutes away that use to have his own bodyshop at a different location and he definitely knows how to use a torch and welder. I just prefer to maintain the arm’s original shape in case the next owner wants to put the clutch pedal (I saved it) and a manual tranny back in.

METRIC threads on a Stovebolt?!!!!

I don't think you'd need to worry about inadequate strength on those fasteners, but I'd probably go with something more conventional rather than barrel nuts. You could easily get conventional bolts in grade 8 if you feel the need.

Ya got me Hansen! I found these at Home Depot instead. “1/4 in.-20 x 3/4 in. Hex Button Head Stainless Steel Socket Cap Screw”

Much better.

If someone brought that to me to weld it would be so simple I wouldn't even charge them. If I did maybe $10.

I got a brake pedal assembly(CPP I think) took it apart and repositioned it to be left of column for left foot brake application, works well. Firewall master. 55.2.

Ed

I finally got to it! Took a great deal of back twisting and one broken drill bit, then finally a reciprocating saw to cut the rivets (since I couldn’t see very well to drill straight through the rivets) but I got the pad plate off. I then did an ugly weld job to fill in the holes, ground them flat, and drilled new holes. Clamped in place, marked new holes on arm, drilled and bolted on with Allen head screws and locking nuts. Moved it about 3/4”-1”. A little more room for my wide numb feet.