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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 21
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Joined: Nov 2020
Posts: 21
Does anyone make this steel and rubber line for the oil filter mounted on the side of a 270 gmc?
If so what is the manufacturer and part number
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20230228_235756.jpg (419.25 KB, 231 downloads)

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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Any shop that builds hydraulic hoses can fabricate a duplicate of that line, using the original as a pattern. I'd suggest that you find a shop that services construction equipment such as bulldozers, backhoes, forklifts, etc. Some NAPA parts stores are able to fabricate lines like that. "Single Braid" hydraulic flex lines are rated for 3K PSI pressure, far more than an engine oil system can ever produce. Hydraulic lines are measured in 16ths. of an inch, so that one appears to be a #4 or #5 line.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
J Offline
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Thank you

Joined: Oct 2018
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C
'Bolter
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Posts: 118
Those "threaded compression sleeve" type fittings are getting tougher to come by - especially when incorporated into a flex line, as on the 270.

Your post did not show the return line, but your pics of the feed line look exactly like the one on a GMC CCKW. Assuming it is the same, you could try searching for PN 2137793.

I looked for one several years ago, but could not find any available domestically, so I ordered one from these guys, in NL.

Oil Filter Lines

They don't list them explicitly on their website, but if you send them an email asking what you need, they should be able to accommodate you. The line came in a set with both the feed and return.

Best Regards...

Joined: Feb 2004
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Unless you're doing a 100% original restoration, the flex line isn't necessary. There's no relative motion between the filter housing and the oil gallery, so you could just plumb the system with hard lines for both pressure and return.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: May 2015
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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Originally Posted by CrowbarBob
Those "threaded compression sleeve" type fittings are getting tougher to come by - especially when incorporated into a flex line, as on the 270.
Those are still available, although you do have to look a little harder. Here's an example Link. You can also substitute fittings with separate compression ferrules, and once assembled, no one will know the difference. The only advantage of the rubber section is flexibility to make that connection, but like Jerry said, it's not really necessary. Standard copper tubing and the appropriate fittings will do just fine. Copper would be much easier to form over the timing cover than steel tubing.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
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J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Here is an example of the hard line setup.
Oil filter line

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AD Addict & Tinkerer
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Athough not a GMC, I replaced my flexible line on my 235 with CuNi tubing. easily bent and flaired.


Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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F
'Bolter
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Phak1 I too use brake tubing but use forged brass external flare nuts,so you can really put the hammer on them so they (hopefully) wont seep and collect dirt from being oily. I use a Ridgid double flare tool,have learned to always use forged nuts that are a lot tougher. Side note: use forged outdoors where they get rain,then hard freeze can crack em.

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D
'Bolter
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Most NAPA Auto Parts locations make hydraulic lines.


Dave from Northern Kentucky
My 54 3100
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H
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Never heard of them. Are you referring to the flex lines used with the bypass oil filter? Plain old grease gun flex lines with 1/8" pipe threads can be used as filter lines- - - -they're available at any corner parts store, at a fraction of the cost of lines from the online resto-ripoff specialty parts stores. I prefer using hard lines made from copper-nickel tubing to plumb a filter, with a 360 degree vibration loop built in. The only reason for using the flex lines was for ease of installation of the dealer-installed optional filters back in the dark ages.

www.ebay.com/itm/234915015938?

www.ebay.com/itm/202706816547?

Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 11,078
Another option is what are called "Push-lok" fuel line fittings. Link (others make similar fittings and hose.) They are rated for 100 psi and no tools or clamps are needed with the proper rubber line.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 3,689
J
'Bolter
'Bolter
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Ive had to replace both the inlet and outlet lines on mine in the last year or two. The previous came from one of the resto vendors and eventually started seeping.

Currently running the push-lock type thing on the inlet. My local Napa helped me with that. I have a 12 inch grease gun hose on the outlet. The grease gun hose scares me a bit. What little info I’ve been able to find, suggests the heat rating of grease gun hose is kinda borderline.

The next time I replumb, it will be with “braided steel oil return” line. You can buy it with a black PVC coating that wouldn’t look totally wrong. Sold in several different diameters, lengths, and fitting arrangements. Not too expensive. Look for a seller called “EZ Dealers” on the big auction site for examples. But several sellers have similar. “Inline Tube” sells many options of the same.


1951 3100
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H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Hard pipe is the permanent answer. Use the butt-ugly dark green copper/nickel tubing that the local parts store sells in various lengths as fuel or brake line, and bend it to fit. It's already got inverted flare fittings made onto both ends, and the 1/8" NPT to inverted flare adapters are available in all the standard sizes on Ebay- - - -dirt cheap! It's a simple, permanent fix that neither age nor heat will ever have any influence over. All it takes is a tubing bender and a little common sense.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!

Moderated by  Phak1, Woogeroo 

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