The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Washers at front cab mounts

1950 Chevy 1 ton - Are the washers for the front cab mounts (ones with the depression) available separately without buying the body mount kit? Would be nice to find them since that is all I need at this time. If anyone knows a source for these please share. Thanks, Tom

I don't see a listing for them at the usual sources, but you might try calling Jim Carter. He has a lot of oddball things that are not listed (or at least not searchable) online.

Make sure you tell him you are a member here. He actively supports the forums.

https://oldchevytrucks.com/

I think Evan (coilover) made some of these a few years ago...3 years, maybe? You might send him a PM. If you need to shim the front part of the cab up higher (it will commonly sit down on the frame and avoiding that by even 1.5 or 2mm will eliminate a decent amount of noise coming from the frame straight into the cab) get some of the sheet pvc material used for shower pan liner and cut yourself some washers from that. It is thin enough you can use a couple or three layers. That noise is the same principle as two cans and a string for a "telephone."

Jon: I saw that the rubber shims are for sale individually at Classic Industries. Is the PVC spacer better than doubling up on the rubber mount shims? Or was that just a solution for spacing it up when you could only get the mount as a complete kit?

The ones with the depression in the kit are a lot thinner than the original ones . The ones on my truck were also spot welded to the floor .

I went to tractor supply, bought the right size washer and then used various things to beat into the needed shape.

The original spacer pads will have probably allowed the cab to settle onto the frame. That's pretty common. The replacement (repop) pads are the right thickness, but they're not as stiff as the original stuff, so after a year or so you'll be back down on the frame (they settle faster). If you add the pvc spacers at a point you'll reach a situation of...what is it called...maybe homeostasis? Sounds right. What I mean is the point when it has settled as much as it will and both frame and cab are kept apart. I think the original pads were just made of better stuff. Hopefully this makes sense.

You can also use that pvc shower liner to make fender to cab pads, fender to inner wall pads, running board to rear fender pads...all kind of things anti-squeak and anti-rattle. It is tough and resilient and people seldom think to use it for auto applications, although Jerry and I have discussed it before and also Jon (carbking) and I discussed using it for carburetor gaskets as it is fuel resistant, and might allow for the take-up of some body warping. You'd just need a steel rule die to cut the stuff. I haven't even been able to cut it using a cnc laser machine.

Jon, that makes perfect sense. Thanks for the additional information.

By "shower liner" are you talking about the rubber that goes down on the subfloor and shower pan before installing the shower? Sort of like pond liner rubber?

Yes, exactly that stuff...it is a flexible pvc liner you put down, fold corners (like military bed corners) and seal with special pvc cement before you pour the shower floor and set tile. Better than pond liner rubber because it is made specifically to resist the effects of concrete (both chemical and from grit, gravel, etc). It is very tough stuff but still has flexibility and "give." As an anti-squeak it is pretty much the best you can use in my opinion. Much better than the tar paper junk some sell because it won't harbor moisture.

Lowe's sells it and so to plumbing supply houses:

https://tinyurl.com/mvkf8x82