The Stovebolt Site Forums Welcome! Welcome Centre Do It Yourself (DITY) Gallery 1954 Chevy 3100 - “Ole Blackie”

Well, happy to announce that a ‘54 that belonged to a friend for many years, has now been passed to my ownership, and I have gotten it home from California to my home in the Gulf Islands of BC Canada!

This truck has a lot of sentimental meaning, as our friends honeymooned in it in the 80’s. They also used it as a work truck from 1979 onward. Very complete driving truck! In old original condition, as I like them.

Wondering if I could get help Identifying the engine in it. I’m pretty sure it was changed. Stamped on the block, next to distributor: F I I 03 J. The I’s look capital, the 0 I’m not sure if it’s a number or letter.

I searched the forum but didn’t come up with what I was looking for, but probably just missed it!

This is a great story and a beautiful truck. Sorry, I can't help you with the numbers.

Steelonsteel,

Congrats on acquiring and getting the '54 home!

One suggestion, take and post some pictures of the engine "serial number" you mentioned as well as ones of the engine block and head casting numbers as they will help provide more necessary info for folks to correctly answer your question.

Others will chime in here soon.

Dan

Congrats on the truck! Pics of rusty greasy old engines are eye candy, so post 'em up!

Thank you! We are practically in tears of joy!

Congrats. Awesome story. Glad you made it home without creasing the hood or bed.

Just a heads up: don't ever place a strap over a vehicle attached to the trailer for transport. The suspension will bounce in motion up and down. Therefore tightening and loosening the strap causing various issues including creasing.

If a strap is needed to hold hoods etc. close, attach them to the vehicle itself, NOT the trailer. Just a heads up for future transportation.

One more thing, not to nitpick, but that front ratchet is considered an, "unsecured load" at least here in Pa. Make sure they are closed in the locked position for safety sake.

Post some more pics. Looks like this truck found a good home and will greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the pro tips! And I hope to be hauling more.

The truck was pretty tight to the bed, by the axles, and by the screwed down wheel chocks. My reasoning for the straps was to take some of the spring motion out of the equation, as the load felt a little lively. Didn't cause a problem this time, but I'll take the advice of experience and not do that next time.

Here are some block pictures, numbers etc. I thought maybe the engine mount attachments might tell a story.

The pictures will help a bunch, but not quite enough (yet).

There is one that needs a retake as you only caught what looks like one of the digits in the engine block casting code (see picture #3). You need to look at the spot in between those 3 bolt bosses and the number you seek should be there. Helpful hint: if you rub the spot with a piece of chalk, it will help highlight the raised casting numbers and make them easier to see and read.

To help you locate your engine block casting number, take a look at the below pic (red circled area) on where to look on your engine to find that number.

I'm no expert by any means but I searched based on your door tag picture and found this about the original engine at Conceptcarz ... "from concept to production"


Edit by Peggy M 9/27. This is a cool site and the specs they have seem really helpful. I snagged a screenshot of their 1954 Chevy to add to your post, just because it looks great. (There is a neat VW right next to it but you'll have to go to the link to see it, and other other line up of cars there.) Cool site.

Glad the trip went well. Let the suspension bounce. You won't feel a thing. And it won't hurt anything either.

Well, from the Serial Identification Number on the door post tag :

H = Model 3100
54 = 1954
0 = Oakland (truck assembled in Oakland California). This character is a bit of a puzzle as I expected an "O" (letter) not a "0" (number).
008632 = production number 8632

Congratulations on the new truck. Looking forward to seeing it in person when it gets a little warmer around here.

Looks like a 1957 235. Attached taken from the Old Car Manual Project, specifically the engine, 1954.

Your engine code breaks down as follows;

F = Flint Engine Plant
11 = Month (Chevrolet used the capitol letter eye as number one)
03 = Day
J = Standard issue 235 6-cylinder used in 1/2, 3/4 and 1 ton trucks from 1957-62

To get a better idea of what year the engine is you'll need to look at the casting date found just above/behind the starter motor. It will be a letter with 3 or 4 numbers.

Your chassis serial number H54O008362 breaks down as follows;

H = 3100 1/2 ton truck
54 = Year
O = Oakland Assembly Plant
008362 = unit number starting with 001001, so you have the 7,362nd unit out of the Oakland Plant for the 1954 model year.

Mike B

Gord, Not a '57. It has side motor mounts making it a 1958-62 motor. Code 'J' was used from '57 thru '62.

Mike B

Well there's one more block number picture.

Thank you to all for the help and encouragement. Yes, Bud will be appreciated here!

Ding-Ding-DIng, we have a winner here!!!

Casting Code # 3769716 does in fact coincide with a '58-'62 235 engine block.

As Mike B noted, the "casting date code" will add the final touch to confirm what year.

Love it when the info all comes together!

Dan

Great info on this year of truck. I think mine coincides with the 1/2 ton specs, with 3 speed.

The truck, however, was changed to a four speed at some point, as well as to the '58-'62 235. I think the engine was essentially identical to the '54. The price, however, is higher now!

So, with the engine year confirmation from Dad's and the door post plate number info, the only question remaining for me is
why the vehicle ID number on the California title is different than the door post serial number.

I'm in no doubt that the truck is legitimately the same truck as I know all the owners except the original farmer purchaser.

It has 52,000 miles on it, by the way.

Again, thanks to all of you for the help on this. I was out in the snowstorm last night getting that last engine block photo!

At what point in time did Chevrolet begin using frame numbers instead of engine numbers?

My '51 has no frame number and the title, when I got it, showed the engine number.

I subsequently got the state patrol to assign the number on the door post as the ID number. The young first inspector looked high and low for the frame number until the more senior guy told him that only GMC trucks of that era had frame numbers but not Chevrolet. Then they agreed on the door post number.

By '54 they might have begun using frame numbers, which would explain why the title doesn't show the door post number?

"At what point in time did Chevrolet begin using frame numbers instead of engine numbers? "

The 1956 and later required codes/numbers/IDs being pressed into the frame (at the factory). Maybe 1955-2nd and later.

If you want a link to a 1956 truck manual, I can try to find it on-line and I will try to post it.

Maybe someone else will kindly look for photo of that page in a manual on-line?

Does your title serial number look something like this?

0001234F54X

If so they titled the truck using the original engine serial number and now that that engine is gone there is nothing legally connecting your paper title to that truck.

By chance is the original engine still laying around at one of the PO's farm?

The last year Chevrolet put a serial number on their engines was for the 1956 model year, from 1957 on they got engine codes only.

A partial Body/Chassis serial number was stamped/pressed into the Chevrolet frame starting with 1955 cars and 55.2 trucks.

Mike B

Yes, my title vehicle ID number does look like that. Ending in the F 54, but no X. Making that an engine serial number?

So, I may have to go with the getting a number assigned route.

Thanks for the help in this .
Charley

0001234 = Unit number starting with 0001001
F = Flint Engine Plant
54 = Year
X = 3100 series truck

Mike B

Well, I sure appreciate all the help on this truck. Nice to have the numbers all defined and know the engine.

I'm just getting ready to drive, pending dry roads here.

A new experience for me today, when I found the last owner had put the plug wires in the wrong order! Amazingly, it had started and drove onto the trailer in Cal, though it ran inexplicably badly. Funny, it wasn't backfiring, but it was wired, I believe: 1 4 2 5 3 6.

So, there you go. Got it straight and she purrs now!

Keeping ole Blackie drivable as the first goal while fixing things. I have removed the homemade trailer hitch and bumper and now am modifying the old generic bumper into a '54 style, more or less. It will be painted. Having the license plate in the center the aim.

Simplify the taillight array will be next. Well, and rebuild the bed!

By the way, that flat spot on the bumper will be for a license plate light, not a trailer ball!

Yep, looks pretty original to me.

Thanks, Dusty, I used your picture for reference! And I believe this truck was Sea Green originally.

On my 54 3100 I installed a hitch with a flat plate welded on the size of my license plate. I can pull that out and install another hitch bar to tow with. I stick the license plate and adapter in the cab when I need to tow. BTW once in 13 years.

Well that's an honor! Hey, just so you know, I purchased the License Bracket / Lamp assembly from LMC, 36-4403, $30. Worked perfectly. Oh, and a quick check of the paint codes for 1954 ( Check under paint in the Tech Tips) lists two "greens" for 1954: Juniper Green and Ocean Green. Mine is a close match to the Ocean Green. I've seen several at meets that were a shade or two lighter.

That sounds like a good hitch. A receiver hitch, I assume.

I had to cut all the bolts holding the bumper and supporting frame to get mine out. It was broke in a couple places and welded over. I'm going to go with a painted bumper on mine also.

I got a license plate bracket from Classic Parts that includes a light that fits where that cut out in the bumper goes. I'll post a picture when I get home tonight.

Ok, Doug, I have ordered my license plate bracket. Also a seat upholstery kit, from Classic Parts. I'll get a picture when it's in.

Well, the bumper tuned out ok, and license plate bracket is in, though no plate on it yet.

I think I read that the turn signals can be wired directly to the taillights and use the brake light bulb filament. I'd like to take off the extra taillights. Will research the wiring details.

I have begun the repair of one box side and the bed. I'm making the boards from local mill rough sawn Douglas Fir.

While working in the empty bed space I spotted a long hidden Hide-A-Key box in the cross member above the spare tire area. Very original looking ignition key. It fits the ignition, which leads me to believe the ignition switch is actually original.
I consider the key another treasure of this sentimental truck. I'll post a picture.

I think it is wired wrong so that Off is all the way to the left. Maybe supposed to be left: Acc., middle: Off, Right: On.

I also am puzzling over a piece that was under the seat, a bracket, pictured, that has the keyhole-ish shaped hole. Wonder where this goes ?

Then, another thing: a metal tag in the seat back springs, with a number. S G 3693890. Wonder if this relates to the year model of the truck?

The box patch metal is 1/16 sheet steel, but for one piece in the center, I am trying some steel from an old crosscut saw, 1/16 inch. I wonder if anyone has tried using this stuff and welding it, and will it cause problems, being quite hard, maybe spring steel? It was hard to cut and drill.

So I think I will post in the Interiors Forum about the seat covers.

So, I'll get a picture up when the bed is done.

C

That Hide-a-Key looks pretty new, so likely a later addition, especially with your suspicion of the ignition switch being wired incorrectly.

I would not use that saw blade as patch material. High carbon steel is not what you need. It can cause brittle welds.

That metal tag on the seat springs is the part number. The S G is likely the manufacturer code or some such. My seat springs had a paper tag with the PN on it. Mine said L.A.Y. 3696078

Yeah, O K, on the saw blade. I kinda figgered, but was trying to fool myself because it seemed kinda cool. Thank you for warning me off! Saved me some grief. But I will be making cabinet scrapers out of it.

This is just a patching for the present, until I do a restoration, hopefully with the grandsons (they're in the one year old range, so
I might be wishful thinking, but, who can say).

I have to divulge that I polished up that key and the Wife rubbed the dirt off the Hide-A-Key can top. I's now back in place, just in case! I was under the impression the pop out tab keys were sold with the truck.

Thanks Kevin. Your '51 project is truly beautiful!

Thanks for the comment. It's getting there.

You can still buy key blanks with the pop-out thing that had the key code stamped into them.

I can see how this little fella can be helpful here.

Just wanted to add some info on Charley's '54 that he sent as a follow-up ... from last October. He's been popping into the site here and there, helping answer some Bolters' questions.
==========

From Charley:

I appreciate you all keeping me in the forum. The '54 project is not progressing right now. This is due to me taking on far more work than I can keep up with. Sadly, none of the work brings in money!

It all relates to the fact of Lisa and me having moved back here 4 years ago. From 18 years in Hawaii, sadly selling our much loved family home, built over several years, via Montana, we settled back here on the Island, where most all of our children and now their children live.

Found 10 acres of forest land and started building a new house. This entails, also, cutting trees , milling lumber with a WoodMizer band saw mill. All the usual excavation for foundations, septic system, etc. Also renovation of an existing house for our son and family. Also getting ready to start the big timber framed shop, which will house all woodworking, mechanical, and grand kid projects!

We do have a lot of help from family, and are thankful, having the two 2-year old boys over often, and they love the old trucks and machines!

So, I have a lot of parts, and the '54 Chevy is running, but needs a lot of attention, like several other old Chevys we drive. So, I am probably overly optimistic about getting all these projects done, but having fun! We are in the house and comfortable, and have loads of firewood, so we feel so much better off than many today. We are all healthy, happy, and together.

I have the Stovebolt as a second home, on line.

Life is Good😎
Charley

Thank you , Peggy!
I can report that I gave Ole’ Blackie some spring time attention today.
The driver’s bottom door hinge has seized up and I’m trying to get it
free. Though I keep the truck under a car tent, the moisture here in the winter gets into things. Have the door off, applying torch and penetrant and oil,
but it is resistant. Wasn’t hoping to re-pin the hinges right now.
The upper hinge clips are also broken, so I might have to face it.
Love having my hands on the old relic, though!
Charley