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| | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 221 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 221 | i'm making some spring plates to convert my boys 52 pickup closed drive to an open drive. i've done this before but can't remember, so the rear axle NEEDS to go back 11/2 " from stock?
thanks Jay D. | | | | | Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 5,900 Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT | | Gearhead, Stovebolt Tech and Parts Tracker, Mod for Swap Meet and GTT Joined: Sep 2009 Posts: 5,900 | jay d, Going to move your post to the Driveline forum as that is the best place to have this discussion. Dan 
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100Follow this story in the DITY Gallery"My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine"1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
| | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,070 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,070 | Jay
If you want the axle in the stock location you need to put your center bolt holes in the spring plate forward of the center of the axle housing. The center bolt (and axle pivot on the torque tube) is forward of the axle center on the stock axle. In other words, the axle needs to be behind the center bolts on the stock springs.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 221 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Mar 2013 Posts: 221 | THANKS, but how much does it need to be moved back? I'm thinking 11/2 but not positive.
Jay D. | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,070 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,070 | Sorry, I haven't measured the distance between the axle center and the pivot. And I can't go do that for you until the pile of snow melts off the chassis. 
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 | 1 1/2" is best. I believe I did mine at 2" because I wanted the slight allusion, with the axle slightly forward in the opening, of forward motion. "Going fast while sitting still" I guess you would say? | | | | | Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,070 Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums | | Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums Joined: May 2015 Posts: 11,070 | 2" behind the center pin would put the axle farther BACK in the opening than stock, wouldn't it?
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truckFollow this saga in Project JournalPhotos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together. | | | | | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,499 Moderator, Electrical Bay | | Moderator, Electrical Bay Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 4,499 | I used 1.25" although I could have used 1.5 just as easily. 1.25 worked a little better with the perches I had. Actually you can use 1 inch if you wish. The difference between 1" and 1.5" won't actually be seen by the eye as much as you might think. 1" will let you pick up a wee bit shorter turning radius...again not enough to make much difference.
~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
| | | | | Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,689 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jan 2014 Posts: 3,689 | Moving the hole in the perch forward of center, would push the axle to the rear. At least that’s the way I have it figured.
1951 3100
| | | | | Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! | | "Hey! I sound like Darth Vader!! Joined: Oct 2005 Posts: 4,252 | Ah, I went one way or another! That was almost 17 years ago!! | | | | | Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 Renaissance Man | | Renaissance Man Joined: Mar 2010 Posts: 10,281 | 1 1/2" is best. I believe I did mine at 2" because I wanted the slight allusion, with the axle slightly forward in the opening, of forward motion. "Going fast while sitting still" I guess you would say? I am with you on that. It makes my eyes hurt to see the wheels centered in the wheel opening. A pet peeve of mine I guess. I am thinking that they were originally place in the forward-of-center position to help keep the mud under the fenders. Very few paved roads back when these trucks were new.
1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
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