The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Huge Diff in Radiator Costs!?

Hi! I ordered a radiator for my ‘49 Chevy PU. One day later I see another (reputable) company is selling it for almost half the price! The higher one is $625 the cheaper one $279! (See photos) The shipping cost is hugely different too! What would make for these huge differences in price?? I know the expensive one is made on America because it states this in the description, the cheaper one does not say where it is made. I would greatly appreciate any insight into these varying prices to avoid it happening again. Thanks!

You answered your own question.

Made in USA nearly always costs more because the workers that made it are actually paid in real money. The materials are generally better quality as well.

The who-knows-where it's from? version is most likely made in China where unskilled, slave-laborers slap together piles of crap with little or no attention to detail. Who cares if it starts leaking a year later? They cost so little to make and are worth even less, that sending out free replacements if a customer bothers to complain doesn't impact the maker's bottom line in the least.

I see your cheapo is from LMC. I've found that parts from LMC are generally decent but every once in a while you'll get a lemon.

I bought a radiator for a '79 F-100 from LMC and it was copper and brass and made in Thailand. It seemed pretty decent but spring a leak at the header tank after a few years. I had it re-soldered completely around and it's been fine ever since. You shouldn't have to repair a three year old radiator, though.

Thanks so much for your reply! I thought it might be because the higher priced one was made in America, but HALF..oh well, I want to support America by buying America-made products, so I’ll swallow this one. 🙃

Hi SuziQ
The expensive one doesn’t look correct to me
But it might be stock photo and not actual product

The bottom should rise in the center to clear the manual starting crank option, however if you never intend to crank start it no big deal

Other option is an original radiator from a wrecking yard for $100?
Last one I bought that was the going rate in 2021
Nothing beats original parts for me.

Also for $600 your original radiator if you have it could be made to look new at a good radiator repair and rebuilding shop. Then you’d not only have a good original USA made one but you’d support a local business too!

There is also the mix option, get a quote from a rad shop on fixing up an original wrecking yard rad, they might even be able to source it for you too.
-s

Where does anybody find a wrecking yard with AD trucks in them, let alone one that still has usable parts?

I have junkyards all over the place here in Atlanta but 20 years is about as far back as they go.

I never knew there was a crank start option. I just went out and looked at my truck and sure enough, there's a slotted hole in the crankshaft with the beveled end for the crank to slide out and the upside down U shape in the radiator.

Even my 1939 Packard has no provision for a hand crank. Heck, the last car I owned with a hand crank provision was a 1959 Humber Super Snipe. (what would you expect from a car equipped with Lucas electricals?)

Was the AD the last Chevy truck with a hand crank option?

Don't discard your original radiator. 2Many Trucks is right about having it rebuilt if its salvageable.

I know of a large wrecking yard in California called Turners auto wrecking
And another one up In Saskatchewan in Clavet called Amigos auto wrecking
Both have these old trucks and a selection of old cars with the same engine.

If there is not one already
This forum might benefit from a specific topic or section about known wrecking yards and their location with the latest information from bolter visits
I think that would be neat.
-s

No doubt there are a handful around the country but if you don't live near one, you're sort of limited to buying new or repairing what you have.

Okay guys: Here's your request.

Will be interesting to see what IS out there!

Thanks for the info. I sure hope it’s correct now that I’ve ordered it, based on the year. Also the original 216 engine has been replaced by a newer 235 (‘62), would this affect the radiator size? As stated, I ordered based on their listing that it would fit a ‘49 Chevy PU.

Yes we thought about getting it re-cored. But instead order the new one from a classic parts

That will be fine. The 62 wouldn't fit.

The option I always go with is an aluminum radiator from eBay. It is (was) $200 including shipping. It looks VERY similar to the original brass ones. I paint the tank and sides with Rustoleum self-etching primer and gloss black paint. I leave the tubes and fins unpainted. It looks very correct and keeps both engines I have used them on right at 180 degrees regardless of weather conditions.