Hello, I am installing a new lower rear panel on my 1948 cab. Just curious if there was any kind of material installed on the lower rear panel? There is metal to metal contact where the support ribs and the rear panel touch. Was there a pressed paper or something like a jute material on those ribs? I was thinking of putting some thin rubber where they meet.
My 1948 Chevy 2 ton was used as a flat deck sometime in it's life and the back of the cab took a beating. The truck had been poorly painted when I bough it and when I started removing the paint, I found a lot of body filler. I tried to pull the dents and heat shrink, but since I am not an expert it ended up beyond my talents, so I decided to go the patch panel rout. I had done inner and outer cowl patch panel repairs on both sides of the cab and they needed a lot of re-working, and I mean not really close. This rear panel took very little tweaking to get it to fit. If anyone decides to do this repair, I recommend bending the top corners of the side lips out for what I call a convenience bend so that it slides easier on the door frame. Also, I don't know if GM had different top mounting holes for different years, but the panel came with four holes, and my truck had 6 holes with different spacing. Not a big deal. Use some soap to get the top lip to slide into place. You can tap the top into place with your hand or a wood block right on the bend, it's strong enough not to cause damage. Also, I recommend using a couple of tie down straps over the panel, and through the door openings to pull it tight into place.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Looks like a good solution to a beat up rear panel. Glad it went well and thanks for sharing the effort.
As far as the strainers (what GM called the support ribs) they were installed last after the rear panel. The Factory Assembly Manual (FAM) Section 1 Sheet 12.00 says there was sheathing paper (like heavy roofing paper) glued to them where they contact the back panel. (There was still some left in my cab.) The strainers were attached at the top then pushed rearward with 50 lb force near the bottom and then welded to the floor (per FAM Section 21 sheet 42.00.) In your case, you can probably get away with pushing the sheathing paper behind the strainers. There will likely be enough give in the rear panel (assuming you've already welded it in top and bottom to get the sheathing paper in.
Please let us know how it goes.
Since this is more bodywork than interiors, I'll move your thread there.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/12/20239:08 PM. Reason: Fixed fat finger issue
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
I haven’t welded anything yet, just bolted the top. I can still get to the strainers. Thinks for the build info. I was looking in the wrong section, section 1, where the spot welding info is.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Went for some thin rubber over the paper to sandwich between the panel ant the strainers. Stuck them in place with rubber cement, and have it strapped in place again. I'll spot weld it next. By the way klhansen, I looked at the factory assembly manual and didn't find Section 2 sheet 42.00. I think it's a reproduction from Jim Carter Parts.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
Maybe your FAM is an abbreviated version. Here's that page.
[on edit] Sorry, I meant to type Section 1, Sheet 42. Fat fingers.
Last edited by klhansen; 02/12/20239:09 PM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
A day without laughter is a day wasted- Charlie Chaplin When wrestling a grizzly bear, you have to keep at it until the bear gets tired, not when you get tired. 1948 Chevy 2-Ton
No, I led you astray with my goof up saying it was Section 2.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Here's that page.