The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area General Truck Talk Help with VIN please

I bought what I think is a 1946 1 or 1 1/2 ton truck. Before I bought it the Genteman said it had a large fuel tank on it. The Vin looks like “D B M 295xx” can’t find any thing on the vin decoders.i
Next to a serial number it appears to say “CAB No.” and not “VIN. No.” Even though it was located on the upper right side of the firewall. Any help will be greatly appreciated. I recently had my truck media blasted and epoxy paint primed, then I found on this forum and the location of the Vin. Plate. My blaster or myself failed to tape off this plate, so I removed it to clean off the paint and try to I.D. My truck Thanks for looking, and hopefully someone can help

You won't find anything that old on a VIN decoder, as standardized VINs didn't come into use until much later.

If you're looking at the engine, I'm seeing that a DBM prefix indicates a 1946 engine built in Tonawanda and installed in a 1/2 ton truck.

The vehicle serial number plate is on the right side of the cowl under the hood on '46 trucks. Look there and see what it says. A 1 ton would have a DS prefix and a 1-1/2 ton would
have a prefix of PJ.

You can get a Vehicle Information kit that has that information from the GM Heritage Site HERE

Post some pictures of your truck.

Two ton, can fit disc brake spindles/hubs to front axle while keeping tires inside fenders.

Ed

Roger C,

If using an iPhone, you can't see our main page left margin goodies and links (this way due to screen size limitations of your device, but it is visible using a larger device like a tablet or computer).

Unfortunately that includes not being able to see the info and the link to the Picture Posting Guide.

You can either click the link I noted above, or go here for More Picture Posting Help in the IT Short Bus.

Suggest you read the entire thread in the "More Picture Posting Help" link as it provides greater detail when posting with your iPhone.

Hope you find this helpful and looking forward to more pictures of your new truck!

Dan

The serial number you gave us DBMxxxxx is the engine serial number, this number would be stamped on the passenger side of the engine block near the distributor.

The cowl tag will have the body/chassis serial number on it which will look something like this...3PWE 1001.

3 = St Louis Assembly Plant
PW = Model 6400 (2-ton)
E = Month
1001 = unit number starting with 1001.

This number is not the same as the engine number.

If you engine number is hand stamped on the cowl tag than someone added that number and titled the 2-ton truck using a 1/2 ton truck title...DBM = 216 engine from a 3100 (1/2 ton) series truck.

Mike B

Roger,

When you go about the pic posting process, what you described and shows above happens when you use the "Insert Image Link" (picture button) in the menu bar above the text entry box.

Instead of going there, once you are in "Use Full Editor", go down to the "Attachment Manager" link in the lower left of the box and click on that.

From there:

- Click the "File Caption" box and enter a short descriptive title of the pic you want to attach (note: it helps to give the pic a name in your Picture Library or where ever it is before doing this).

- Next, click "Select A File To Attach" and find your picture (iPhone choices should pop up as: Photo Library, Take Photo or Video, or Choose File).

- Next, select the pic you want to attach (it should display on your screen showing the options of "Cancel" on left and "Choose" on right with "Actual Size" displayed in middle).

- Next, click "Choose" and the screen for the "Attachment Manager" will display again (a very small thumbnail with the file name and info will display lower down to indicate the pic is now in the "Attachment Manager"). Do the above process for all pictures you want to attach (you can do up to 10 in each post), then click "Done".

- The screen display should return to your post/reply box and next to the link for the "Attachment Manager" should show "(Total Files: XX)", indicating the number of picture you have attached.

NOTE: At this point you will not actually be able to see the pictures you have attached, even if you select "Preview Reply" as that function only makes your text box info display as it will in your actual post.

- When you have completed attaching your pictures, and entered whatever message you are sending in the text box, final step is to hit "Post Reply". Your screen view will revert back to the post you just entered or replied to and display your post which will then display the photos as "thumbnails" along the bottom. You should then be able to click those thumbnails and view them in a larger window format.

Give this a try and lets see how it works!

Dan

If that "CAB No." tag was attached to the truck before you removed it, it may have been changed out (many years ago from the looks of it), and stamped with a replacement engine number. Many jurisdictions used engine serial numbers for registration (I know that California did in the '60s), especially before the current 17 digit(?) VIN scheme was developed. That may explain why the number looks like a '46 1/2 ton engine serial number with the DBM prefix.

Thanks Kevin, I had my truck media blasted and primed recently. Reading on this forum, I found the location of the Vin. The blaster or myself failed to cover up this I.D. plate, so I removed it from the firewall and tried to remove the painted epoxy primer, so I could identify year, make, and model. Thank you for your reply !

Hopefully Tennessee isn't a stickler about how the plate is fastened to the truck.

Some states won't let you register a vehicle if the plate isn't attached exactly the way the factory did it.

Roger,

Glad to see you succeeded in getting your first pics posted.

Kevin's (klhansen) info about how trucks would get different VIN or Serial Numbers assigned wasn't only done in California. Several states used to do the same thing when an engine change may have been done (many listed the engine serial# as the title VIN number instead of the cab serial #).

In fact, some states still do this, but only through a specific process overseen by an approved Law Enforcement Office or state licensing authority. You really need to take time and go visit your local DMV before trying to re-create and/or reattach your data plate!!!

Failure to do so is actually a crime (varies from state to state) and can get you into some unwanted hot water.

Dan

Are you sure it says "CAB NO." and that it's not CAR NO. ???

What's weird is the vehicle number would normally be on that plate, not the engine number, so I'm thinking like Kevin...the engine number was stamped on that plate when the engine got swapped out because that's what's on the title, but what happened to the chassis number...did they buy a replacement plate without any numbers and re-stamp it?

Mike B

II believe that in 1946 the ID plate was attached to the truck by screws. I do not know what style of screws were used. Early AD truck ID plates were attached by special clutch head screws.
How was your ID plate attached when you took it off? If they are original, and you have a reasonable assumption that the ID plate belongs to this truck, I see no reason why you cannot put that plate back on the truck with those correct screws and avoid any legal trouble.

In ‘46 the data plate was attached with special short clutch head screws. Until recent years the screws were not being reproduced. If memory serves, Jim Carters was a source? The plate is attached on the cowl right side. As others have indicated that plate was not typically used for registration purposes.

Thanks guys. The plate was attached (2) small hex head screws. Does anyone know of a stamped Vin number on the frame, cab or any other location on a 1946 1 or 1 1/2 ton truck ? Thanks again for everyone’s help !

Unless the bigger trucks are different than the 1/2 and 3/4 ton models, the registration number was stamped on the engine only and in two places. One was on a flat boss adjacent to the distributor and the other is under the push rod cover near the front. I don’t recall hearing previously of any differences.

Most states used the engine number as the "VIN" though 55 I believe. The data plate on my 38 also had the hex/clutch screws so removal is easy. Unfortunately replacement of a non OEM plate is also easy. Some rocket scientist painted over my original data plate and I was unsuccessful in removing only the modern paint so my 38 has a repop plate but I carry the OEM plate in the glove box in case there's a curious LEO that needs to see it.

This might help you decode things.

Your truck is a 2-ton, not a 1-1/2 ton...the give away is the front hub cover. The 2-ton has a bolted on cover while the smaller trucks have a screw on cap.

Chevrolet didn't start stamping the frames until 1955.

Mike B

I've never seen the engine serial under the pushrod cover, can you post a picture of that? Also, what years did they do that?

Mike B

I have an engine like that in my truck
The serial is stamped at those two locations
One is distributor area as normal
And
The other is on the flat surface under the pushrod cover above the fuel pump area
That second location is hidden and confidential, the push rod cover gasket covers that serial location
It was not super common but does happen
-s

What year is the engine?

I have had lots of the 206 engines (1935/36) and they don't have the extra serial number...I wonder when they started and stopped doing that?

Mike B

It’s a factory 235 in a 53 GMC truck in Canada
The engine serial numbers match the door tag
I have about 12 of these trucks from 50-53 years range
And only one had this second secret under the valve cover stamp
And the stamp is the same factory numbers as the distributor pad, not some after market smaller stamps
The font and size is the same and looks original from GM Canada.
-s

By valve cover I meant pushrod cover on engine side.

Unfortunately, Mike I don’t have a photo for an example. Those I’ve seen were on 216’s. The engines were from ‘39 and ‘40. I’ve not needed to pull the push rod cover off my ‘46, so don’t know if there is one there. I do know the numbers match on both locations as referenced above on the engines referenced. I do not know if any other engines or even all 216’s had them nor when this started or stopped. I recall reading long ago the 2nd stamp was an attempt to foil unsavory characters from getting away with theft. I also recall reading long ago engine replacements did not necessarily have engine stamps at all. The dealership apparently had the means to stamp the engine for the customer. I’ll search my collection of references to see if I have a copy of that thread.

I think what he means is that it's on the block below the pushrod cover near the fuel pump.

I thought I had a photo but don’t
However I still have the truck
And I have the exact same engine in 4 other trucks
So I’ll definitely take photos next time I uncover it or another example of that stamping
I put a lot of permatex red form-a-gasket on that cover before smushing it back on after replacing the broken timing gear
So I am very not gonna take it off until I have to.
-s

Yes, that is correct. Both stamps are on the engine block.

Maybe it's a Canadian thing??? Keep the info coming, I love learning new stuff!

You can teach an old dog new tricks...

Mike B

That seems to be the case for my 235. The PO told me it was a factory replacement engine. There is a meaningless 3 digit number stamped into the usual spot next to the distributor. Block casting numbers indicate 1962.

X2 on what 46Sparky said on engine replacements not being stamped.
My '51's original 216 was replaced in early '54 with an engine that was not stamped. I even tried an acid etch to see if the serial number had possibly been machined off, but no evidence of that. They documented the engine swap with a brass plate screwed to the valve cover.