The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 283 swap

Ok here goes, I am seriously looking at a 235 to a 283 engine swap on my 57 truck. I have an engine who’s ID number says it’s 57 283, I’m am mating it to a T350 transmission and I changed out rear end gears to 3.08s a couple of years ago.
The questions I have are, do I or do I not need a bell housing? I hear and read different opinions on that issue? I’m not sure if having a T350 automatic makes a difference
Another question is about the steering box and exhaust manifold. What mods will I need here. It presently has a power assist system on it that’s original and I think I will be converting to power steering when swapping out to the SB. I know I need an alternator, A new starter, radiator and radiator shroud. The engine mounts should be similar at least the location.
What are the other pitfalls I may run into.
Would love to here what you guys have run into.
Thanks in advance.

Dave

I can't comment on the manifold/steering gear but there is a lot of info in prior threads. The 350 transmission bolts directly to the engine, no bellhousing but the bolt pattern may not match. You will also need a flex plate that will bolt to the crankshaft and match the torque converter. The '57 V8"s front mount was with 2 "birds legs" on the front of the block.

The 1957 283 won't work with the TH350 as you don't have side motor mounts on the engine. The front bird leg engine mounts and the rear TH350 tail shaft mount don't provide any support in the middle...you need to find a 1958 or newer SBC to work with the TH350 or put a manual trans behind the stock V8 bell housing.

Mike B

You'll need to install aftermarket motor mounts to support the engine in the bellhousing area and probably put a tubular rear mount under the TH 350 extension housing, plus modify the center of the crossmember in the bell housing area to clear the torque converter. Don't remove the crossmember entirely, as it also supports the back of the leaf springs and prevents flexing of the frame. A driver's side exhaust manifold for a 55-57 passenger car V8 will clear the steering gear since the outlet flange is near the front of the cylinder head. A 1958 or newer 283 V8 engine will have the side mount bolt holes that will make the engine installation much simpler.
Jerry

Thanks all for your responses. For clarity the 235 that’s in there now is mated to a T350 that I have been driving around with for a number of years. I would be just changing the engine, the bird mounts I get, but need to confirm the rear mounts for the engine. According to the 57 manual for the V8 they look similar to what our host offers in there catalogue.
The 238 engine block does in fact have the bolt holes for side mounts I believe.
Jerry your indicating the LH exhaust manifold for 55/57 car would give me clearance for my steering box.
Again thanks all for your feedback, this is a new project for me and want to make sure I have all bases covered.

If your SBC engine has side motor mount bosses than it is NOT a 1957 block, it's a '58 or newer. The 1957 283 was a one year only block.

The stock SBC Rams Horn exhaust manifolds were installed at the factory on the TF trucks and do not interfere with the stock steering.

Mike B

Yep, I was thinking of the 1954 and earlier frames before the V8 was a factory option that would need the front-outlet exhaust manifold. Good catch on the TF trucks having a different frame shape!
Jerry

Any chevrolet automatic transmission will bolt to any small block chev V8 or even a Big block v8 they all share the same rear flange to bellhousing pattern. I know nothing about the LS series though.
The 235 engines have a much different bellhousing than the V-8s and newer style inline GM engine do.
I don't think a THM350 will fit into a TF truck, I'd like to see pics if someone has done so, with out messing up the crossmember.

I had a 283 in my 1957 truck. I used the under-engine tubular mounting bracket. Everything fit fine, the stock steering box cleared easily, I didn't change my radiator location , but I think I may have used a short water pump (not sure, it was a while ago). I was very happy with the 283 (changed to a 348 later just because I wanted to).
don

Again thanks all for the wealth of knowledge out there. I’m gaining. As for the 283 block, the casting number is 3756519 and if I have looked it up correctly it indicates it was a 58 to 62 block, yet the stamped ID number is F0929E and if I understand it correctly it indicates it was built in Flint on Sept 29 with the E suffix indicating it is for a 57 Vette or truck with manual transmission.
As for the mount that is in there now, there is tubular cross member holding the rear portion of the T350 in place and there are brackets connecting the very front of the transmission to the frame where the the 57 assembly manual calls for. This leads me to believe the 283 should slip right in there. If I’m incorrect in my thinking please don’t hesitate to correct me. Thanks again for the guidance

Your engine was built in late September to go into a 1958 model year passenger car with a Turboglide transmission...it will have side mounts.

The 1957 283 block casting number is 3731548...it does not have side mounts.

Your 235 has front and bell housing motor mounts if it's still stock. You'll need to bolt or weld in a side mount crossmember like this one sold by Summit to install the 283/TH350 setup.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...h_OBrDqCWjmQ2Qt2HeJyJiout1EaAg57EALw_wcB

Mike B

First thing of course is to be sure tranny fits and input/output splines and lengths fit.

My advice is:
1. Pull the 235 and start mocking V8 in there. Front clip OFF! Hang motor and trans off of a cherry picker or whatever, jacks....and chains...blocks...stands
2. SBC fits TF. I've done it with BBC, it had a TH350.

So with mocking it up:
3. You will mock mount the motor with a universal tubular side mount crossmember
4. You will mock mount the trans tail only to a universal tubular trans crossmember or the existing one you have. There will be no rear of engine mount.
5. You will use a kit to mock mount a GM Saginaw PS box with necessary ujoints for steering shaft.
6. You will identify any other issue with mocking it and staring at it for a few days. In a comfortable chair.
7. You will see clearances, to include: radiator space available, firewall/distributor clearance, You will consider headers/rams horns/Jerry's 50's V8 manifold ideas. Drive shaft length/mods.
8. You will check pinion angle. Set intake manifold carb surface to level.
9. You will plan any changes to Trans linkage. I went with Lokar nostalgic shifter.
10. It's not a super hard job.

A 283 is a cool old motor but I would go a little bigger and a little newer.

Thanks all, good suggestions and info here. The casting numbers are 3756519, the ID stamp is F0929E, the block looks like it has bosses on for side mounts.
Stupid question, what do mean when you say remove the front clip? Radiator and fenders?
I am some what limited in my capability Bartomos so I will have to go to a professional shop to hang this in but want to know what it entails before I go. I don’t have a cherry picker and don’t weld. I have the 283 and it seems a shame not to install it

Front clip, in this case would be hood, fenders, radiator, all things in the way of mock up. Some folks would not remove front clip. Anyway, none of my advice/list is useful. It's all up to the shop you go to. Didn't know you were not DIY.

Be aware that having a "shop" do all that will be a nightmare and take a long time and a lot of money.

Thanks Bartamos. I’m more of a wanna be DIY when it comes to an engine upgrade. Up until now have done most of the work myself. I will do the disk brake conversion here shortly. I’m reluctant to do the engine change out myself as I’m a one man band, don’t have the lifts, has limited knowledge and has limited space. I agree with you going external could be a nitemare. Presently I’m having the 283 block magma flux and cleaned up to make sure I have a decent core to work with. This project may take some time and will be doing it in steps. I agree with the process you recommend as far as a mock up goes and taking the front clip off makes sense. I’m in the planning and understanding what all needs to be done mode right now.
I much appreciate all the feed back I have been getting.

Dave, You could always enlist the help of a few other "Bolter's" around you. Once you have the engine prepped and ready you could ask for an "All Hands on Deck" and make a Wrench fest out of it. I'm sure there are some members around you, you would just need to reach out. It may work, it may not, either way it would give you a chance to introduce yourself to the BC group.

We used to call a USAF plane that spent a lot of its time being worked on a "hangar queen". Lots of stovebolt "improvement" projects end up being "garage queens" for a couple of decades or more.
Jerry

When I retired I was in the same boat as you. I wanted to have something to do and stay at home and I had worked on cars/truck long before that. So I bought a cherry picker and gradually built up some tools. Built a shaded "patio" and went to work. That was 20 years ago.
Guys who like wood stuff buy all kinds of expensive equipment at retirement. People go on cruises. As you can see this is quite a support group, so no problem with problems. Many of us had to learn before forums/internet/youtube/parts searchability. So You ain't got no worries.
You will spend time for sure, but you will spend 10% of what a shop will charge. If you enjoy sparks, drills, hammers, angle grinders, the sound of an air impact, figuring things out, and satisfaction! buy some tools. Most of us are one man shows. We can't expect someone to come over when we feel like working at any hour of the day or night. Then you get rushed trying not to waist their time. You are probably at a disadvantage, I can work almost any day, you have to work around weather.
You may farm out the motor to a shop and the fine body work and paint. But you can do anything else. You do need some space. Sitting home waiting, getting mad at a shop, getting screwed, glued and tattooed is a tuff way to go.

When the time comes I can guide you with PS pump and pulleys. I just installed a 1965 283 in my 1965 C10 and bought all the brackets and pulleys and made it work. The PS gearbox you will need might be different than mine.

Since TF trucks were offered with a V8 I don't consider this a swap but just a replacement. As far as a no side mount block with a Turbo 350 the Tri-Five suppliers such as Ecklers have the rear auto trans bell housing mount kit for such. Everything available with no fabrication needed. We do fab all our stuff as we convert to a serpentine belt system for a much cleaner finished look. It may even be available now from suppliers.

To All especially, Bartamos. Thank you, you have me rethinking the project, I can find the space, I have most of the tools, what I lack is some specialize tooling like a cherry picker, some knowledge and experience. I too am retired and worked on airplanes for close to 50 years so I know how to use my hands. I have not done a V8 rebuild nor a full up engine swap like this, I have pulled a number of car engines, but mostly 4 bangers and have rebuilt at least 2 VW engines in my day.
Knowing I have a knowledge base to draw on is a great plus and gives me a lot of confidence and I also have resources in my area so thanks to all for making me rethink this.
This for me is a year long project, I have the engine block at a machine shop for magna fluxing and clean up. Once I know what the condition of the block is, it will determine how and when I go forward. I do not look forward in going to external shop and have some one do this for me but at the same time I want it don right. I would also like to learn how to do this so doing it myself seems like the best approach. Thanks again for making me rethink this. You’ll will be hearing from me as I go forward.

Watch the Canadian equivalent of Craigslist and pick up a used Cherry Picker. When done with your project list it for sale if you don’t have a place for it.