The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Making gaskets on Cricut

Did a little arts and crafts project tonight.

My daughter has a "Cricut Joy." Basically a little CNC cutter for craft projects. I saw a YouTube video the other day about this and had to give it a try. All the videos I've seen use the much larger and more expensive "Cricut Maker" and none did a great job of explaining the image setup steps. But a little fiddling and I had it figured out.

Pic is the airhorn to bowl gasket from my YF. Just a trial run on Manila folder. Now that I have a process that works, I will buy some actual gasket material and test that.

All this was done from the smartphone. Picture converted with a free Adobe background remover. Sized and setup in the free Cricut app.

There’s a backstory into why I chose this particular gasket. 100 internet points to the first who can spot the subtle difference in my Manila folder copy.

The hole for the vacuum port for later carbs. And I tried this on the Brother's Scan & Cut (kind of a big brother to the Cricut). It would NOT cut gasket material; too dense.

Good luck.

Jon

No hole

Yep, the middle section of my 2100 has a vac port (perhaps for auto choke?) that neither the air horn or base utilizes. I got to thinking it might not seal correctly, and MIGHT be the cause of my part-throttle whistle. Probably not, but I’m not out anything by trying.

I use a cnc machine which has a laser head on it. The laser isn't powerful enough to do much, but it will cut 1/32" gasket material like a champ. Send me an email if you need the .nc files.

I might take you up on that. A quick web search seems to suggest that I’d need to convert it to a vector file for Cricut to recognize.

Would like to have a CNC machine. It's the technical side would need to get up to speed with. Afraid of getting one, then discovering it lacks some capability I'd need. Just don't want the learning curve. Is there a good one that's idiot friendly for a few hundred bucks?? At most, would like to engrave a design or checkering on hardwood pistol grips.

The Chinese made 3018 is one of the easiest to use and most popular of the CNC machines out there. And you can get them cheap. However...if you're wanting one to do checkered design on hardwood pistol grips, you're probably talking 3D work and the learning curve on that is tougher because you're including the Z axis. Or let me put it another and maybe simpler way: the closer to a flat plane you can operate on the easier things will be for you. The basic CNC machine with cheap motor can be had for $150 or less. A laser head could be close to $300 depending on the power you need.

Here are some things I've learned about the 3018:
As I said, they're not costly. Micro Center has them on sale right now for $129.99--- https://tinyurl.com/muvk3b96
The motor you get with it might not be strong enough (or at least you'll need to make many shallow passes with it). Most people will adapt a Dremel Moto-Tool to the harness and it will be okay. Some will adapt a small router motor. Or you can purchase a stronger motor made for the 3018, but the more motor you use...well, see below
The steel rails the motor sled rides on won't be strong enough if you use a heavier and stronger motor. You'll need to do some alteration and get at least 7/16" rods. The original ones are something like 10mm in diameter. You might not think an extra 1mm in diameter will make a difference, but it does. 1/2" would be ideal, but there are some limits.
You can use a laser head on it very easily. All you have to do is buy one (the strength you want/need), mount it in place of the motor, plug it in and adjust the beam correctly. It uses GRBL software. Using a laser on a flat surface is so simple I think today's 10 year old would have no difficulty mastering it. You're just talking an x/y axis program.
Using the laser head to make flat cuts on just about anything it is designed to handle is not difficult. In fact I would say even a beginner might need a few hours of general fiddling around to understand it. If I can do it, you can do it.

You can take a look at the YF gaskets I made below. As I recall I used one of the Fel-Pro materials and they haven't given me a bit of trouble.

Good luck!

Jon, I’d love to have your file for that manual choke gasket if you’re willing to share. I believe you have my email, but I will PM you just in case.

I’m fairly confident I can convert a .nc file into some sort of vector file the Cricut can use.

I’m amazed at the accuracy my picture-converting hack-ery can produce with this little gadget. It’s more than adequate. But I can probably do even better with something that begins with actual x-y coordinates and dimensions and such. More advanced hack-ery, anyway.

The jungle website was about half-price on the gasket material from the local sources. So it will be a couple days before I test the ability to physically cut the stuff.

I really hope it works out for you.

I bought the Brothers to do some gaskets we only make 1 or 2 every year or so; but the Brothers would not cut 1/32 Armstrong N-8090 gasket material.

Would be great if there was something out there for less than $1000 that would cut gaskets from good gasket material.

Have checked out the laser cutters which will, but a cheap one seems to be around $2500., requires circulating water; and there is a learning curve with the software to modify the scans. According to a number of folks that I have consulted, suggest one to two hours to modify each scan. For that, arch punches, and curved tipped scissors do a great job for low production.

Let us know how it works out.

Jon.

The internet (which never lies) says the bigger Cricut “Maker” will cut gasket material. They are $300ish I think.

My daughter’s entry level (almost a toy) Cricut “Joy”….may or may not. I think the cutting but is carbide and you can set it up to make multiple passes or for different types of material. Hopefully I can find the right setup to create a decent result.

I’m not building a space shuttle, I can do some fine tune trimming and it would still be better than what I’d produce with an exacto knife and a leather punch.

I’ve been known to tear a gasket on a lawnmower, chainsaw, or log splitter at very inconvenient times. If this works, it will be a handy tool for things other than my old truck.

You might take a look at the K40 laser cutters. They are cheap to get and dirt simple to operate.

I bought one on sale for $300 shipped a couple years ago and had it running in under an hour. I liked using Inkscape for the input files because I could stick a photo in it, have it trace the lines, then cut (or do manual cleanup if I wanted).

I have not made gaskets on it, but I cut 4mm plywood and acrylic regularly. I would not be the least bit concerned about it functioning.

EDIT:
There is a lot of good information on it here: https://k40lasercutter.com/

I loaned mine to a friend for a couple projects. If someone has a couple scraps of the thicker gasket material they are willing to donate, I could do some test cuts and report back. Or if you had a gasket you wanted made, send me a pic with a couple dimensions on it (so I can ensure the scaling) and I will make them as a demo.

Jon, I haven't tried cutting the 1/32 Armstrong N8090 gasket material, however I have had very good luck cutting the Fel-Pro 1/32 material (can't offhand remember the stock number of it). Common stuff but it has worked fine for me. The laser cutter is all about 3 things: strength of the beam, focus dot of the beam (must be as tiny as possible for best concentration and speed of travel. I've learned once I get the balance of those factors all goes well. The hardest of the gaskets to make is the anti-slosh gasket, but I have figured out how to do that one also. I haven't done the throttle body to manifold gasket, but that's just because I haven't needed one so far.

For all those at the edge of their seats, here’s an update on the conversion of nc files to svg format…..

It can be done, but it’s not quite the silver bullet I was thinking. Comes through with some extra lines that would have to be cleaned up in Cricut’s clunky app. I assume they might be lines related to the movement of the cutter in a true CNC file?

I’ll do some more fiddling, but it might be more practical to just scan and create an SVG file. The other night I was lazy and just testing the concept from a cell picture. The result was surprisingly good, but I’m sure a scan would be better.

Well, I can send you scans also. Watch your email account...

Thanks! Hope I didn’t sound ungrateful for the original file. Just didn’t want future readers to look at my post and wrongly assume it was easy peasy to convert.

I was gonna do the scan myself because that process IS easy peasy, but you have saved me a step….

Not trying to hijack the thread, but since some of you seem to be knowledgeable in this area:

I would like to buy something absolutely turnkey (open the box, pull out the item, plug it in, and it works!) that:

(1) does not require water
(2) does not emit nasty fumes
(3) will cut Armstrong N-8090 1/16 inch (1/8 inch would be nice) from either an 8 1/2 x 11 or 11 x 17 sheet
(4) will either do its own scanning, or accept a file type I can get out of normal scanning software
(5) sells for less than $3500
(6) plugs into either 120v or 240v single phase
(7) and most importantly, does not require me to learn to use new software (remember the old dog - new tricks cliche)

Anyone know of anything that will fit the above description?

Jon

I don’t think that question is even remotely hijacking. This has been a beneficial conversation for me already, and hope to have more news to share.

Replicating a gasket once in a great while (with close to zero spent) is more than good enough for me. But it’s also curious what’s possible with better software and equipment.

The larger Cricut can handle much larger dimension material, and many materials including pretty thick leather. That opens up possibilities for things far bigger than a carb gasket.

The real tricks here are 4 and 7. Mostly 7 unless you already know how to use some kind of cutting software.

Numbers 1 and 2 eliminate any kind of a laser system. You *can* get laser systems with integrated coolers and air filters, but then you blow #5 out of the water.

Looking at the material properties of the Armstrong N-8090, I think you could cut it with a small spindle CNC machine if you sandwiched it between a couple layers of sacrificial material to minimize tearout. You could potentially just use the spoilboard and a top layer.

Something like this would fit on a table and be inexpensive, but you do have to learn some kind of software for the files: https://www.amazon.com/Masuter-4040-Machine-Engraving-15-75x14-96/dp/B093LH9899

That one has to be assembled, so it isn't turnkey but it is also 1/7 your price point. How "turnkey" are you set on? Any kind of a machine tool is going to require occasional maintenance/calibration/etc. How ok with that are you?

Double post deleted

Jon.

My "turnkey" on this is comparable to a copy machine: load paper in the paper tray, put in an original, push a button, remove copy.

Trying to simplify life; learning a new software system does just the opposite. I can cut ANY gasket I need in 15 minutes or less using arch punches, and curved tipped scissors. I keep records, and if I use more than 5 of any given gasket per year, I sent the print to a gasket company in Kansas City, have them make a steel-rule die, and buy 250 of the gaskets. Generally, the cost of the die plus 250 gaskets will be $500~$600 and I have a lifetime supply. In the last 50 years, have accumulated maybe a thousand different carburetor gaskets. But many of the kits I make I only sell one every two or three years to the extreme of the supercharged Duesenberg with dual carbs that I have sold one kit in 50 years! The time to cut the gasket is less than the time to find the print, and lay it out. If I had a way to produce half a dozen of these unusual gaskets, it would be a time savings in the long run.

The Brothers Scan N Cut would have been ideal, had it cut the N-8090, but it won't. It was only $400. Didn't think it would work when a customer told me he had success (on diaphragm material), but at $400. was worth a try.

Again, not trying to hijack the thread.

Fibonachu - PM sent!

Jon.

Jon, what is your typical starting point for cutting an oddball gasket you don’t keep in stock? A physical gasket? Some sort of template on paper? The carb surface itself?

I don’t care to carefully read this whole comparison, but my quick glance at it left me with the following impression:

https://www.diys.com/brother-scan-and-cut-vs-cricut-maker/

1) The Scan and Cut has a much simpler interface
2) Cricut maker wins in cutting power - 4000 grams to 350 grams - whatever that means.

One of my wife’s friends has the bigger Cricut unit and runs a little side-hustle business with it. I can ask how she would produce the kind of stuff we are trying to make. I suspect from what I’ve learned thus far…there might be one additional intermediate step compared to your brother unit.

Then again, I’ve gone out of my way to spend zero on this effort and done everything from a phone with and no cords connecting anything. If one logged into an actual computer and spent a few bucks on the non-free version of the software…it might be pretty darned easy.

There are several versions of the Scan N Cut, I had the largest one.

Supposedly it would cut all kinds of stuff including acrylic. But the gasket material (N-8090) I use is TOUGH! It also is resistant to ethanol, gasoline, diesel, and many acids; which is why I use it.

As far as the sources you mentioned, all of the above.

50 years ago, when one could still buy most of this stuff, we bought and salvaged tens of thousands of carburetor rebuilding kits at swap meets, from dealers, even bought the complete obsolete rebuilding kit inventory of Standard Hygrade. But ALWAYS retaining two of each to disassemble for samples. Currently, I am the caretaker for the remain of Stromberg, including the complete surviving drawings from 1909, the surviving drawings from Carter from 1912, the surviving drawings for Kingston, etc. And currently have approximately 150,000 carburetors to disassemble and use for patterns if I don't have either an original sample or a drawing.

An IN-HOUSE turnkey gasket cutting machine would simplify producing some of the odd-ball kits (check the various listings on my website if you are interested in how odd-ball ); but it needs to be in-house. As stated earlier, I have a good selection of arch punches, and various tipped scissors; and can cut any gasket I have tried in no more than 15~20 minutes.

But I learned a few years ago, that as one ages, one begins to realize the most valuable asset any of us own...............is time!

Jon.

Jon, I replied to your PM with some specific info for you.

As far as the rest of the thread. If the goal is to save time against the 15-20 minutes you call out above, it won't happen. The setup/takedown time to cut one gasket is going to be 45 min to an hour. That said, the time to make 5 will not be significantly longer, but if you send orders of 5+ out to a manufacturer already that doesn't really help you.

In my opinion, the big value to setting something like this up is that you only have to digitize any given gasket (or set) once and it is protected from loss, degradation, etc. Once it is digitally archived, it can be cut by anyone with the tools and desire. Those same digital files can be used to print a template (using a pen plotter or equivalent) that could be used for hand cutting. Having them available digitally would (potentially) make them easier to search and store down the road.

Jon H...the 3018 with a laser head is as simple as you will find. It will require you to scan the gasket you wish to cut into a jpg file and save it. From that point you will crop the jpg file (or the GRBL program can crop it for you, but I just do it myself) and then send it to the GRBL application (on your computer). If you don't crop it, the GRBL program will be confused by the "dead space" and your dimensions will become compromised. Then the GRBL program will rapidly convert the jpg file into a vectorized file...which will become the instructions for the 3018. This takes a few seconds once you get comfortable with it. Then you transfer the nc file to your controller, plug that into the 3018 and remember to wear your protective glasses. In less than 30 minutes I can scan a gasket I need, convert the file, check all the dimensions and cut the thing. Once I have the strength and speed of the laser established, I just save the nc file and I can use it indefinitely if the same gasket material is used. Once the nc file is done, I can have the laser cut the gasket in about 3 minutes while I do something else. Below are some I made (copied from official Carter gaskets, actually). The standalone gasket is for the YF788 (a little different). I should add I was over 70 when I started learning about all of this stuff. If you want to mail me a small piece of the gasket material you like, I'd be happy to see if the machine will work with it or not.

Jon: How are the fumes on the 3018 for gasket material with the laser? With my K40 I get pretty nasty smoke from basically everything I cut. That said, I am generally cutting more of any given thing than a single gasket. Maybe the shorter cut time would make that less of an issue.

For me zero fumes is the acceptable level.

No Woodcraft or Rockler stores within 150 miles; I sent them a message.

Jon

The fumes are not too bad but let me say up front this isn't something to do in your kitchen and also I lost my sense of smell 100% over 50 years ago in a motorcycle wreck. I do this in the garage and my wife says it smells like I might be burning popcorn or toast when I'm doing this. Ventilation is always good. If I open the garage door (which due to mosquitoes I normally don't) the fumes exhaust rapidly. I usually will cut 3 to 5 of each float bowl to air horn gasket, about twice that many gaskets for throttle body to float bowl and half as many of the auto choke cover gaskets at one time. I also have files for the little O gaskets for the seat...I'll do those if I need some and I've set that file up so it will run 2 side by side which I can later cut apart. I've used the 3018 to make engrave wood, I've cut foam rubber, leather and other things...those don't smoke much unless I run it too slow and have the power up too high. But that's all part of the adjustment process I've mentioned. I have learned I can nearly eliminate smoking if I reduce the power, increase the speed a bit and run more than one pass. I don't usually brag on things from China, but it is pretty versatile when being used with the laser. Like anything from China the instructions require some study and thought. But I only know about 11 words in Mandarin, so I can't say much.

Very cool stuff using a photo. I spent lots of time in a few machine shops programming in G code, kinda tedious, but there where nice short cuts some machined offered. Scanning a photo is the way to go. And what a good idea for making rare gaskets, how about diaphragm's ?
Note when using laser stuff make sure you have quality eye protection.

This is probably a dumb question, but has anybody ever tried making gaskets using a 3D printer?

I realize the key would be finding a material that is mimics the characteristics of a normal gasket (i.e. fuel compatibility, strength, compressibility, etc) .

Just a thought.

Best Regards....

You know how the Holley 4 barrel kits have reusable bowl gaskets for tuning and such? Wonder if a guy could do the same for at least the bowl-to-airhorn on a YF. If so…what would be the right material? Buna-N in the right thickness? Some sort of silicon?

(Overkill, I know. The fiber stuff is perfectly reusable for several disassembly sessions if you give it a coating and aren’t a meathead about it.)

About 3 or 4 years ago I looked into this...the silicone stuff and buna-n, that is. There are at least 3 challenges with silicone. Not all is ethanol resistant. Almost all of what you will be able to afford is what is termed "conditionally resistant" which is a nice way of saying "it will last for a while before it fails, but it will fail." It cuts best using a steel rule die/press method. The rule die is going to be very expensive and also is going to leave a lot of wasted product. Also when you compress it, the vacuum passages will shrink somewhat, so they must be cut larger than normal.

Buna-N on the other hand is resistant, but finding it in 1/32" thickness is not so easy and it is costly unless you're buying a lot of it. At that time it was $24 per square foot plus shipping. Like the silicone, it would also have to be cut with a steel rule die and a press in order to get a precision product. I bought 1 square foot of the buna-n and cutting it by hand is very difficult...it moves around on you so even with very sharp tools it is sort of like stacking greased marbles. And...beyond 250 F it begins to fail. It came with a big warning about that. Not that your carburetor should be getting that hot but everybody I talked to agreed a larger comfort margin would be better. And there is another problem. The compressibility and the tendency for people to try to overtighten the screws is going to lead to more warping. Sorry, but everyone agreed that was unavoidable. The buna-n has a shore (hardness) of 40 generally speaking and that is soft enough to allow for a good deal of compression. A compression set rating closer to 90 was what folks thought would be best or setting into the gasket "metal stops" that would keep anyone from overtightening while still allowing for compression. All in all it left me thinking the fiber gaskets were much better. But, hey...I do have some buna-n left over.

This solves the dimension and durometer issue. You can buy 1/32 in 90 hardness.

https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Buna-N-Sheet-High-Strength-60DF25

Doesn’t solve the temp rating or cost issue. Which are both enough to make it impractical.

For $10 I might eventually give it a shot just to learn something.

I experimented with making Buna N gaskets/diaphrams with an 80W laser cutter I had a few years back.

I was never able to figure out settings to make it work. By the time I put enough energy into it to cut it, it scorched and turned hard.

The Cricut Joy isn’t quite up to snuff cutting the Fel-Pro fiber/rubber stuff. I got the gasket it needed. But had to trim it out of the sheet with scissors and razor knife. Played around with a few different materials settings and ran multiple passes.

Anywho…..I’ve learned how to do the image stuff pretty nice and easy. Will very likely use this approach again for something. Want to try to get some time with the bigger Cricut to explore what’s possible there.

Thanks to Jon G for the image file.