Apparently I have only three of these little adjusting plates that go in the back side of the door strikers and I should have four, are they really necessary? I cannot seem to find them in LMC or Classic Parts. Thanks
To the best of my knowledge, you only need as many of those striker adjusting plates as are needed to get the alignment of the latch and striker correct so the latch functions properly. Not sure a set number is required unless that was what was there to start???
Others will come along and correct/clarify this if I missed the mark. EDIT: On further back-checking, it appears you should need to have an EVEN number of spacer plates for the top and bottom mount points of the latch plate, to ensure getting the latch plate to latch spacing correct as needed. Below thought I believe still applies as a possible fix for missing and unavailable spacers. None of the vendors offer these spacers with the reproduction latch plates. Can only guess that it is felt they are not necessary, at least with the repro parts???
Seems to me that you could make additional striker spacer plates out of flat stock if needed. If flat stock is too smooth (allowing shifting of spacers), you can always roughen the surface up by dimpling the face with a center punch to create the rough surface.
Helpful - Yes/No/Maybe so???
Last edited by Gdads51; 01/03/20239:36 PM.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
I’m a fairly newbie myself, but my machining experience tells me the different direction of the texture patterns is to give some bite to keep the latch from moving horizontally and vertically.
1957 Chevy 3200 Daily Driver PS, A/C, Tilt column, Rebuilt 350, Rebuilt TH350, Reupholstered Bench Seat, sound proof/insulated, LED headlights/taillights/backup lights/interior courtesy lights. Follow in the DITY
I’m a fairly newbie myself, but my machining experience tells me the different direction of the texture patterns is to give some bite to keep the latch from moving horizontally and vertically.
Correct, there are corresponding ridges in the jamb and/or backside of striker itself to help anchor things when screws are tightened down. Forget if they're on both jamb and backside of striker, it's either one or the other or both. It's been awhile since I had them off and my memory is only good for about 10 minutes nowadays.
Matthew 6:33
1952 Chevy 1/2-ton 3100 Late '55 235/SM420/torque tube 3.55 Dalton Highway survivor (using original 216) www.truckwithaheart.com
The ones I am familiar with are not threaded. Nor are the ones in the photo. It amazes me how many of the really needed parts are not being remade for these trucks, and was one of the motivating factors when I sold all my Task Force trucks. What year truck are you working on? 52 ?
Last edited by Truckrolet; 01/04/20231:45 AM.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks. Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
The ones I am familiar with are not threaded. Nor are the ones in the photo.
They certainly are threaded. At least on an AD truck. The attached picture is one that had a broken bolt when I removed my strikers. They're not shims, they're nut plates. They're installed with the serrations toward the striker so they don't move once the bolts are tightened. For shimming the striker, washers can be used between the striker and the oversized holes in the latch pillar. BTW all of mine have the serrations going lengthwise as in my pic. I have never seen one with crosswise serrations. Carl52 is absolutely correct.
Last edited by klhansen; 01/04/20234:03 AM.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
My apologies for any misunderstandings on what I noted these to be. I based my comment that they were "spacers" on the picture Paul posted which showed no threads in the bolt holes of the 3 plates (from what I could see and the holes appear to be larger than the screws nearby). It makes total sense that these would/should be threaded anchor plates as noted by many replies above, and that they need to have the serrated faces to grip the latch plate mounting panel when properly tightened to keep them from moving for door latch function and security.
Attaching a pic of an NOS GMC latch plate set I found on eBay last night below. The 2 plates show different serrations, 1 lengthwise and 1 crosswise.
Once again, my apologies for any misunderstandings.
~ Dan 1951 Chevy 3 window 3100 Follow this story in the DITY Gallery "My Grandpa Carl's Truck and How it Became Mine" 1966 Chevelle (Wife's Hot Rod) | 2013 Chevy Silverado (Current daily driver) US Army MSG Retired (1977-1998) | Com Fac Maint Lead Tech Retired (1998-2021)
Interesting conversation. My truck is a 52 GMC. I wonder if GMC had to be different from Chevy for some odd reason. The (shims, spacers, slides, thing-a-ma-jigs) are not threaded and have the grooves going In different directions front to back to go with the raised ridge on the jamb and striker. I'll put a shout out on parts wanted. I doubt if anyone would have a broken set like I do. Will probably fab one. Won't have to close a door for a couple months haha. Paul
I would think being used as a shim between the striker and the jamb it would not be threaded, if a similar looking plate were used as a backing plate/stiffener inside the pillar it would be threaded. I only had my drivers side apart to undo some prior cobbling and can't remember if they were threaded.
1957 Chevrolet 5700 LCF 283 SM420 2 speed rear, 1955 IH 300U T/A, 1978 Corvette 350 auto, 1978 Yamaha DT175, 1999 Harley Davidson Softail Fat Boy
Sorry to add to the confusion. I didn't look that close at Paul's pics to see that his weren't threaded like mine are. Those are spacers and apparently from 52-55 there are captive nuts in the lock pillar. 47-51 trucks have similar plates that are nut plates. Totally different method.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Since there are just 3 striker plates in the OP's pic, I assume the one missing is just like the top one in the pic?
My mistake. All 4 plates are the same, just depends on what side one is looking at.
Last edited by cmayna; 01/05/20238:48 PM.
Craig
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.
My '50 Chevy 3100 5 window, '62-235cu, 3:55 rear My truck ....... Respect The Rust If I'm not working on my truck, '65 m00stang or VW camper, I'm fishing with the wife or smoking Salmon.