The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Alternator hookup

I know the answer lies somewhere in 903 pages of topics which I do not have the time to go through, especially 6 at a time
The hell of it is I have done it before and don't remember how. If you use a 1 wire alternator and a DA plug, and the tried and true
alternator bracket, where does the 1 wire go? My present setup is using an old Dodge alternator with a voltage regulator.
The bracket my dad made to hold this alternator I see alittle bit of misalignment in the fan belt which will lead to premature wear
so I will redo the whole thing, even if it ain't broke. It may help to see how the original wiring went, too if a chart is available somewhere.
After 62 years the truck has been in the family, there has been some modification!

Year and model?

Sweetie To the battery hot post,maybe thru your ammeter. On my part storage rat-mobiles I put an idiot light right on the alternator,good place to test one. On delcotron 3 wire put a jumper from big post to faethest away flat blade,send hot one from big post to battery,then send 12 volts thru no. 57 incadescent bulb to only flat blade left. Turn on key bulb lights,start it bulb goes out charges.

One wire alternator with DA plug? What alternator are you using?

For those who don't know, the DA plug is ...

https://fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2018/04/a-da-plug-what-it-does-any-why-you-need.html

There are "one wire alternators" and there are alternators you want to set up as one wire. Most should be set up as they are designed....if we know what you have, we can help. "Old Dodge alternator" is not enough for some of us to advise. ....."With a voltage regulator" can mean internally regulated or external...depending how we read your sentence.
When you return and answer all the questions.........we will get somewhere.

1951 Chevy with '59 235 and 4 speed. Rear end is out of '61 or so Suburban, cab is '52 firetruck out of Clovis New Mexico

This is another reason I want to make the change. I have no idea what alternator. He told me Chrysler or Dodge because they were "hot". I was not there when he did this and I am not able to ask him now (or ever). The alterantor I plan to use https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E6PZAA/ref=sw_img_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1 which ought to be more than enough. Seems like when I did it the first (and second) time I was using a Chevy classic parts wiring harness. I'm kind of reluctant to rewire this one although I did take off the South Wind heater he had hooked up. The idea of burning gas to heat the passenger compartment made me ill at ease and if it's that cold..........She's earned her rest. I'll drive something else until it warms up!

It worked for Volkswagen... sort of.

The alternator in your link requires an external regulator. You'll need to acquire a 10-SI model GM alternator that has a built in regulator if you want to upgrade. Drop me a PM with an email address and I'll forward a copy of the correct GM wiring diagram to make it work.
Jerry

That wire requires an external regulator so I hope you haven't bought it yet.

Try this one instead:
https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-334-2114-Professional-Alternator-Remanufactured/dp/B000C9NN5S/ref=sr_1_2?crid=31P8GVQY0Z9DR&keywords=334-2114+alternator&qid=1670962108&sprefix=334-2114%2Caps%2C146&sr=8-2

The Rundle link posted by Gord is a little misleading. Not by Gord, but by Mr. Rundle (R.I.P.). He seems to indicate he "borned" the DA plug. The DA plug which stands for Delco Alternator was used by GM when they replaced the Delcotron (DN10) externally regulated alternator, with the 10si (System Integrated) internally regulated alternator in late 60's/early 70's.

The "plug" is a connector shell with female contacts. Rundle just took one of those and added wires and a diode to it for folks installing a 10si; and sold them.
The diode is not necessary if the ignition switch is wired properly to eliminate "run on". The feedback was never "thru" the AD ignition switch as he says, it was because the wire to the coil was not on a separate switch terminal from battery hot and therefore backfeed voltage stayed connected to the coil because the wires were on a terminal block style connection. Bypassing the switch internals.

On newer ignition switches, so called V8 switches, there is a "ACC" terminal, a good place for the alternator wire to attach.
The wire I'm speaking of is the 10si terminal 1, on a three wire install. This wire can go thru an idiot light on it's way to ACC or not.
As Gord says Click

AND THIS

Red to alternator stud, same place as batt hot...... and white to Ignition switch per above comments.

BY THE WAY, YOU KNOW WE ARE ALL TALKING 12V, RIGHT? 59 motor is 12V, So truck has been converted with bulbs, gauge voltage reducers, ballast resistor, etc?????????????

I agree with bartamos - no diode is necessary and idiot light is optional.

The idiot light is kinda nice to have so I'm thinking about adding one. This looks likes the correct vintage for the truck. https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/jewel-fender-style-lamps-bulbs

The indicator light is always a smart thing to do.