The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop heat riser flapper removal

Was able to get this spare intake/exhaust separated for riser repair without any stripped threads or broken bolts.
HF heat gun, PB Blaster, gentle persuasion, and a little patience got it done. Took a couple hours. Flapper was stuck and got it free as well. Shaft holes are enlarged, so gonna try to repair those using method described in DavidF's thread which I'll include HEREfor ease of reference.

Planning to make shallow dremel cuts at the outside edge of flapper's middle section, as indicated in the pic below. Was sorta expecting to find rivets to drill out, but this one looks welded to me. If anyone has any tips or knows a better way of freeing flapper and shaft, I'm all ears.

A little slack in those shaft pivot holes is a good thing. Too tight, and they'll seize up again. Unless there's a noticeable exhaust noise from the shaft holes with the engine running, sloppy is good. Since that flapper valve and shaft is exposed to exhaust gas at 1500 degrees F. or more at times, getting energetic with an acetylene torch while freeing things up isn't going to damage anything. Ditto for getting the bolts loose- - - -close to red hot is OK.
Jerry

How I did mine...since mine in my 216 was worse than stuck, it was rotted off next to the flapper inside, I had to kind of start over. The holes in the cast were slightly egged so i drilled them out to match a stainless steel rod I had allowing a tiny bit of slop. I added a bit of extra length over the original rod for the spring slot to be longer to prevent the anti-rattle spring from falling off as I have heard is a issue. Using the oversized rod, I had to do a little persuasion modification to get the rod to slip though the flap, drilled and tapped for a pair of small ss screws using a length that could be tapped over into rivets after final install. Important to cut the slot in the end at the correct angle to the flat per original with the weight to work properly. Use you original for reference. I just used a cotter key to hold the weight as I can get to it if I ever need to replace. I'd use those longer brass nuts to make removal of your head pipe easier down the road too.

How is the valve held in place on the rod?

Are there screws on the other side not visible in the photo?

Otto mine was spot welded to the shaft, My '37 has a '39 216 in it. I just drilled the spot welds out. The shaft was in two pieces from rust/rot right at the flapper.

Yep mine is from a '39 too, so there's no rivets or screws.

Shaft hole is pretty enlarged at the counterweight end. It's not as bad as what's currently on the truck though. Was getting exhaust fumes into the cab through my old porous heater duct hose (which resides under the hood). And some backfiring when coasting down steep hills. Slopped on some exhaust putty as a temporary fix 4-5 years ago and it's fixed the fumes and backfiring, just takes engine noticeably longer to warm up in cold weather.