The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Reinstalling a steering wheel

I have a new repro stock steering wheel for my 57 Chevy 1/2 ton. It does not want to slide on the shaft splines more than a small amount. I’m thinking of heating the hub to see if that will help, but I thought I’d check to see if anyone has any experience with this. I don’t want to melt or deform the new wheel. The splines appear to match, and I’ve thoroughly cleaned the splines on the shaft. I rebuilt my steering gear box so I haven’t tried pounding on the wheel. Just a few taps with a dead blow hammer.
Thank you,
Larry

Mine slides on and of easily. Try rubbing some bar soap on the splines.

Get a caliper out and see where the differences are, check the male splines for uniform OD (outside diameter), check the steering wheel for uniform ID shallow to deep, try to measure if the root of the splines are deep enough…compare all to your original steering wheel.
I would not hesitate to sand the outside of the male threads a bit, but I would not do that without measurements showing it would solve your problem, if I was not sure I would be returning the new wheel.

Thanks. I appreciate the ideas. I’ll get back tomorrow with results.

Keep it in mind. Anything reproduction or new replacement part(s) manufactured in Asia is subject to quality issues.
If it doesn't work, contact the business you purchased from. If you modify or beat on it, you own it.

Yes. Good point. That being said, this piece has the feel and look of an original. I was surprised. The splines look good, but I’ll be measuring everything tomorrow before I do the final fit up.

Use a small 3-cornered file or a jeweler's file to deepen the splines a little. The splines should slide together almost all the way with no more than a firm push. Tightening the nut will lock them together tight enough to require a puller to separate them again.
Jerry

LAJones 48 Would guess it might be worn-out dies in offshore manufacturing equipment as was said. That is an important joint and should push right on there !

Great stuff! With all of these things to try I should be able to have a good report later today.
Thanks again,
Larry

Here’s a picture of how far I’ve managed to get the wheel installed. It’s covered about 2/3 of the splined area. I tried my old wheel, and that’s about where it sits too. I suppose it’s best to capture the entire splined area.

Larry

Can you tell by looking at the splines of your old wheel if that's where it was sitting all along? It seems like there'd be a noticeable line between a shiny area and oxidized area.

Right! There’s more engagement of the splines on my old wheel, maybe 1/16”. I’ll try a little more work with the file.

My eyes say the splines are uneven and some are cut on an angle.

Good eye. In my rush to get this job knocked off, I created more work for myself. My vision is failing, and I tried to free hand the filing job that Jerry recommended. I should have set up a fixture and a magnifier. Luckily, most of the damage is on the top side of the splines so it should be savable.

Larry

Good catch. You'd make a good machined parts inspector.

Probably has metric splines!! LOL Seriously is there a flat spot or an uneven set of splines anywhere? Some of my wheel pulling experiences when we all thought we needed various aftermarket " racing wheels using adapters had odd spline, etc for alignment.