Does anyone have a suggestion for a stripped exhaust manifold-to-tailpipe bolt, that would not need the manifold to be removed? I heard some whooshing when I accelerated and lifted the hood. The nut was almost off so I tightened it but it didn’t snug and seems to keep loosening. I can remove the manifold but wondered it there was some workaround out there.
Sure. Heat up the manifold at the stud (the original used studs threaded into the manifold with nuts on them) and turn the stud out and replace it. You don't want to snap the stud off, so along with heat, soak it with Kroil or other penetrating oil. You should be able to find a replacement stud at your FLAPS.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Good luck with repair without manifold removal. This was one of the first jobs I had to do on a new to me truck. Manifold removal was my only way, my studs were badly fused to the flange. I cut the studs off flush and drilled them out, then tapped for 3/8-16 studs. I think 5/16 was the stock size, so moving up to 3/8 may make removal 40 years from now easier. 😄
I heated just the manifold /stud area red-hot, then quenched with water. Screwed them out with vise grips.
~~ Jethro 1954 3100 Back to Life In the Dity Gallery 1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
Jethro I never quench em just unscrew while it's hot,if it squeaks heat a little more. Every time a manifold comes to me I put in fresh studs and hang it up. If it's too short to get vice grips on weld onto it with 7018 heat up the iron and unscrew the stub. Or weld on a nut,if still on the truck.
Brando 4905 They were originally 3/8-16,you must have hit the original threads that is good. Used to weld on a bigger nut in hopes of not having to take the manifolds off the truck. On tuff ones I sometimes weld on a longer piece of rod at an angle like a lever then heat the iron. It usually wants to move then get tight and will twist off if you force it . The worst is if it leaves a little stub in there,that is hard to drill out,hard to weld onto,and just tuff all around !
