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I had my mechanic install an Okie bushing on my 1952 Chevy 3100 to stop the transmission oil from filling up my rear end. When that didn’t help they pulled the drive shaft and showed me where it was badly worn where the seal sits. They said I need to replace the drive shaft. Does anyone know where I can find one?


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Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
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It would likely have to be a used one. Post an ad in the Swap Meet forums. There are likely a few complete rear axle assemblies laying around the Stovebolt collective.

The other option would be for a machine shop to build up and remachine the area that's worn. Or maybe a speedy sleeve could be installed.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
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A welding shop with some "hard-facing" rods can build up the worn area, and the repaired area can be brought back to original size on a lathe with carbide cutter bits and a tool post grinder. That might be simpler, and possibly less expensive than finding a serviceable replacement 60-somrthing years old.
Jerry

Looks like Kevin and I had the same idea- - - -he's just quicker at the keyboard.


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Just to be sure you know what the problem is᠁

An Okie bushing puts the seal on a new unused area on the driveshaft.

If your vehicle did not have an Okie bushing to start with then it is unlikely the shaft is at fault.

It is more likely that oil is leaking past the outside of your Okie bushing.

Torque tube ID varies greatly from year to year, and an Okie does not always fit the tube like you would like.

You may at least need to put some sealant on the outside of the Okie before installing.


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They discovered my truck did already have an Okie bushing in it. The mechanic said he measured where the seal on the new bushing contacts the shaft and that is in the area where the shaft is worn. But I will pass along your suggestion to put some sealant on the outside of the Okie bushing when they install it. Tomorrow I am going on the hunt for a machine shop that can turn the shaft after I get a welder to build it up.
Thanks everyone.
Don


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
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If you can find an automotive machine shop with a "submerged arc" welder, the kind that's used to build up crankshaft journals, it would create less distortion of the shaft than going after it with a stick or MIG welder.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
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Originally Posted by BillyDon
Tomorrow I am going on the hunt for a machine shop that can turn the shaft after I get a welder to build it up.
Don


Ask them if they can make you a custom Okie bushing to avoid wear/seal areas and leave the shaft as is.


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Maybe a few measurements and a shaft repair sleeve May be a option ,might be difficult or impossible to have it installed further down we’re the seal is.


kevinski
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How is the shaft where the original seal ran?
Might be easier to install a new seal in the stock position to catch what gets by the Okie.


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I have a question about my Okie bushing. Even though the shaft has been removed, since I already have an Okie bushing, I’m going to use it once the drive shaft has been repaired (I think I found a machine shop that can do the work). From what I’ve read when you install it the end with the seal goes on first. The two bushings in it are different sizes. The one next to the seal seems to fit the shaft while the one on the other end is bigger. What fits into it? Is there something that slides over those splines that fits into this bushing?


My dad always told me, "Don't force it, get a bigger hammer".
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Housekeeping (Moderator) Making a Stovebolt Bed & Paint and Body Shop Forums
Joined: May 2015
Posts: 9,830
The rear half of the u-joint runs in that bushing in the front of the driveshaft tube.


Kevin
1951 Chevy 3100 work truck
Follow this saga in Project Journal
Photos
1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car)
Busting rust since the mid-60's
If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.

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