The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts two speed control vacuum lines

I have the vacuum lines off of my 1948 2 ton that run from the switch to the rear end. The long lines, about 12 feet long, had some pitting and one has a small hole. What would be a good material to make new lines out? Funny thing is I probably would never use the low gear anyhow, but I just want to do it right. I was thinking 3/8" brake line or copper tubing. Or the cheap way out, JB weld.

Super 55 Mine were rusty junk,they are a lot shorter than yours because my truck is a 98 inch wheelbase 51 6400 pickup. I used 3/8 fuel line hose put on in 2018 still fine after 11,000 miles. Best pickup I've had out of about 30 in 50 years. Shifts like a charm,little stiff yesterday at 23 degrees at 5 am.

I used 3/8 brake line on my 46 COE. The diff shifts great. The only time I down shift the diff. is when I'm rolling around a corner in high gear. It doesn't grind down shifting like the transmission does.

Chris's46/515 When I come in off of the hiway I shift to low axle to maneuver around the lot,I notice sometimes when I go into hi-axle it will be kind of out of balance. If I downshift then shift back up it'll be OK. Someone commented the big ones don't need balanced ( tires) well they sure do truck will run a lot smoother with all 6 balanced !

I ordered up some 3/8" brake line from Rock Auto. I was thinking copper, but most of the places I checked only had it in 10 foot rolls, and the lines are just under 12 so the 25 roll of brake line is perfect.

Plastic air line mat’l would also work for vacuum line mat’l.

Ed

Also letting the vacuum pull in WD-40 makes the valves work better and seals up any leaks in them. My dash vacuum valve is a sealed unit, I played with it off and on for years until I stumbled into the WD-40 thing.

Chris's 46/515 I've noticed my valve is pretty stiff in the colder weather,have to give it a dose of wd-40. Pretty sure it must be dry after 72 years in service. Thought about giving it hydraulic jack oil like the brake booster likes.

WD-40 will gum up on you after time. That is why it will stop up leaks.
Never use it on precision tools.

Don

I used it around 12 years ago on both my diff valve and my wiper motor to stop leaks and make them work properly . Several years later my diff valve started leaking a little and I reapplied WD-40 and it was fixed. I've put 3300 miles on the truck so far.

2-ton There is a ban on WD-40 here,I haven't bought any of it in years. Since they fixed so you have to soak the whole area in it I wont use it ! Just mostly use MMO and some PB not gonna pay 7 or 8$ for it. I detect a lot of places use kroil but they seem to work for big companies that can afford it !!

Either plastic air brake lines, or the much less expensive 1/2" CPVC plumbing pipe will work for vacuum lines that will never rust or corrode. Just be sure to bracket it securely to the frame rails so it doesn't sag or get vibration cracks. The cream-colored CPVC resists freeze cracks much better than the plain old white PVC if the lines happen to accumulate some moisture. I use it routinely as conduit for trailer light wiring.
Jerry

I think HVAC PEX tubing is probably similar to the plastic air brake tubing, you can get it at the big box home stores, I don't know the price difference but worth a look.

I used the steel 3/8 brake line for my diff. shifting lines because it looks original and worked fine. It's aluminized so I'm pretty sure I'll be dead before it starts rusting.

2-ton I never use WD-40 cause you can't control the spray,too expensive,and marvel is better anyway. Use marvel on fine tools,my mics have been in the family for 70 years,still fine.

I got all the lines installed. I ended up using 3/8" brake line. I only needed to make two flare ends and my flaring tool set decided to quit after the first line. I did do a couple of practice pieces first, since I hadn't made flares for a while. The threads on the flaring tool decided to lock up. I had to remove the T-handle on threaded shaft that makes the flare, and welded an old socket on the end of it. Once I got the threads free I put a lot of anti-seize on the threads and kept running it in and out. Works better than ever.

I oil the threads, cone, and tube each flare, stops the flare from galling and keeps the threaded spindle working easily. Same thing with a puller, lubrication is important.