The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Interiors Door Baffle Material?

Before I install my lower interior door panels , ('54 3100) , I thought I'd ask for recommendations for material to set inside the each door to deaden the kettle drum effect.
I considered scrapping out an old wetsuit and rolling neoprene sections into baffles , muffler style , but I am concerned that the inner nylon lining material would hold moisture and lead to interior rust. My truck is a fair weather driver , but I still wish to be cautious in that regard , especially after going through the trouble and expense of having the doors dipped.

Ideas , anyone?

HushMat and DynaMat,

I bought some sticky neoprene sound deadener off Amazon
Haven't installed the doors yet, but it looks like it'll do the trick.

There are dozens of sound deadeners. Make sure nothing you use harbors moisture and on that topic, please let me suggest something else. Remove your doors and buy some oil-based genuine enamel paint. NOT water based anything, but any color is fine. Make certain the paint you buy takes at least a couple of days to dry completely. Stand each door up normally and pour about 1/4 cup of paint in tilting the door back a bit so it runs right into the joint of the inner door and door skin. Let it dry. Rotate each door and repeat, making certain each joint is completely full of paint all the way around (by continuing to rotate and pour in paint). Then with a brush paint the area all along the bottom inside (where the drain holes are). Even if you're just using your truck fair-weather style, you'll still wash it and after you've dipped those doors, the joint will be alarmingly susceptible to rust...and rust once it gets in that crack it can completely ruin a door before you ever know it. The best of all worlds is that joint is sealed so that no water can be held there. Good luck!

Has anyone tried Henry's Wet Patch Roofing Tar on the inside of the doors??? Just a thought....

I used KilMat, about half the price of DynaMat I bought on Amazon and it worked great. No more tin drum sound! Here is a [LINK]

I used a generic sound deadener from Amazon. Works very well. Much cheaper than dynamat.

I'm happy with the stuff OEM's use. A 3M product.

That's an old time fix. The body shops used to throw a glob of sticky stuff on the inside of the door panel to keep them from drumming going down the road. Anything that changes the response to vibrations will do the trick for that.
Can't go wrong with 3M products.

My concern with that material would be the odor that might arise if that door heated up in the sun. Roofing tar is meant to stay somewhat gooey ; it would probably gas a bit if heated.
Jon G - you have described a procedure that I should have undertaken prior to refinishing and reassembling the doors. Yet another lesson I am learning late and out of sequence. I will undertake a modified version of what you stated.

The various products you folks have recommended have been put on my Amazon list for further review.

My byline is "Age 68 isn't too late to start hotrodding , right?
I am now 71. After a 2 year layup/rebuild I drove that bucket for 3 weeks and now it's back in the shed for multiple projects and loose end completions.
This is fun , right?

FYI, almost all modern (lightweight) automotive sound dampers use a fairly thin adhesive layer of a dense foam...closed cell neoprene is common. Something waterproof that won't shrink or crumble with heat. Then sandwiched between that layer and another layer of dense foam (usually the same stuff that's on the bottom) is a thin layer of something metallic. Often aluminum, but some use metallic mylar (the type used for those party baloons). When normal vehicle vibrations (whose sound waves are usually peaked) pass through the first layer, they strike the metal layer and are converted into heat energy. Not enough to feel heat, but that's what happens to the sound waves. At the point of conversion, they lose their peaked points and are then transmitted to the top layer as a low frequency "flatter" sound (which the ear soon tires of and begins to ignore). Sort of like the old white noise stuff...trick the ears into not paying attention to noises. You might only see an actual reduction of 6 to 8 decibels but the transformation of the whole sound wave is what makes it "seem" quieter.

But that lightweight technology wasn't always with us. When I was 8 or 9 we were taken to tour a plant that made deadening pads for auto use and appliances like washing machines and clothes driers. They showed us how they mixed common tar, linseed oil and some solvents into a thin mixture and then jute padding was infused with it. Then that was sent through heated rollers (one with a waffle-textured surface) and out came a very dense product of about 1/4 inch which was further dried and then sent to the other side of the plant where it was press cut to shape using large steel rule dies. The waffle side was supposed to be glued on to the noisy side to help with noise control and to help keep it from holding moisture.

Excellent explaination, more knowledge for me.
Thank you.

Try Peel & Seal Aluminum from Lowes.
6"x 25' it's like $20.00...Roofing area of store.
NO Odors..
I did my doors, gas tank, gas tank area, floors, and roof..

Just use a small roller to apply it.

Lowe’s Peel n Seal is what I’ve used on several vehicles including my ‘62 C-10.

Do you put that on by itself or does it go over some other form of insulation/sound deadener?

Do you put that on by itself or does it go over some other form of insulation/sound deadener?[/quote]
By itself

That product is just self-adhesive thin aluminum sheet, yes?

Several types available but the one I use has air pockets on one side and a reflective surface on the other.

The denser material works better for sound attenuation. The bubble wrap stuff is better for heat control.

Look at the Frost King foil faced adhesive backed foam insualtion. It works well to add insulation and sound deadneing.

Good economical suggestions.
The Frost King stuff looks very promising.

The peel & stick from lowes is for flashing new window/door installations. It is self stick rubberized asphalt with a aluminum foil facing very simular to DynaMat, but in 4” width and not quilted.

It is also quit a bit thinner, 25 vs 67 Mil. Dynamat, Siless, KilMat are made of butyl rubber.