Might be a dumb question, but how do i remove the rear wheels and drums on my 59 2 1/2 ton? Tried removing the inner lugs and they just spun. Am I screwed or is there a trick?
59 chevy Spartan 100, former firetruck 348ci with spicer 5 speed and electric rear
The Dayton rims are held on by the 5 nuts and wedges. Back the nuts off, but DO NOT REMOVE THEM. Once the nuts are backed off hit the tire with a 10# sledge hammer to pop the wedges free, they are under a lot of pressure and will fly off with force if you remove the nuts. After all of the wedges are loose, remove the nuts and wedges and slide the rim/tire off.
To take the hub/drum off you have to remove the axle and remove the hub nuts.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
Ok, finally found it in my book, gotta completely disassemble the hub. New question is what are the torque specs for all the nuts? The lug nuts i believe are 450-500 but is that the hub to drum or the ones that lock the rim on?
Edit: youre quick mike! Thanks!
Last edited by MattMcK; 10/30/20228:01 PM.
59 chevy Spartan 100, former firetruck 348ci with spicer 5 speed and electric rear
DO not torque your lug nuts to 450-500 ft lbs you will break of stretch the studs. Dayton type rims should be installed using hand tools only...a 3/4 breaker bar will be all you need. Depending on stud size you could be anywhere from 80 to 200 ft lbs on dry lugs.
For the hub to drum bolts look the torque up based on the bolt size.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
MattMCK When you put those on for keeps have em so you can spin em to see if their stralght,sneak up on em with your impact. Gotta watch when you take those off cause they can shoot you as mike says !!
Is there a trick to getting the tapered nuts out? Got them out once but i gotta do it again and they have been a pain every time. Dont wanna have to heat them and beat on the flange with a sledge again.
59 chevy Spartan 100, former firetruck 348ci with spicer 5 speed and electric rear
Is there a trick to getting the tapered nuts out? Got them out once but i gotta do it again and they have been a pain every time. Dont wanna have to heat them and beat on the flange with a sledge again.
Matt, I think we might need a little more info...exactly what tapered nuts are you talking about??? A picture of what you're working on would also help so we give you good advise...
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
To loosen the tapered dowels you need to strike the center of the axle cap with a heavy lead hammer (a big no bounce might work). You might then be able to spread the dowel with a thin screwdriver and wiggle them out.
I always carry a pair of "jamb nuts" in my tool box (not enough thread sticking out for regular nuts to be jambed together) for the stubborn ones...put the nuts on the stud and lock them together, then unscrew the entire stud like a bolt.
Mike B
Mike Boteler
1956 Chevy 3100 Resto Rod 1952 Willys M38 Army Jeep 1983 Jeep CJ7 Laredo 1984 Jeep CJ7 +++++ Silver Spring, MD
