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| | | | Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 | Trying to decide if I have a problem or not in my 235. Seems to be running a touch hot IMO. It is a recent rebuild bored .080, otherwise I would consider it pretty much a stock setup (new rings, pistons, lifters, rods and oil pump). It runs about 185-195 degrees at the temp sender (checking with a laser pointer thermometer) after idling in the driveway for 25 minutes on a ~50 degree day after swapping the stock radiator to an aluminum one. Before radiator swap I was getting up around 212 degrees after about 15-20 minutes. I have been through EVERYTHING multiple times except for pulling the head back off to make sure no ports were clogged. I even went as far as filling old radiator and block w/ evapo rust, pulling water pump and block drain and going to town with a water hose and compressed air to flush everything multiple times. I am running a 160 deg t-stat w/ an 1/8th in hole drilled in it.
Note: this is in my '50 3100. I have used the 235 guy's water pump adapter plate to relocate center of the radiator. The fan blades are 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch away from the radiator.
Jason Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.) 1950 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,832 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,832 | Is the coolant boiling? If not, the engine isn't overheating. What does the temp do at highway speed, or at fast idle with a fan blowing on the radiator?
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 | Still getting my truck together and haven't really driven it on the road other than up and down the street. We live on a little bit. It would puke a little bit of coolant with the original radiator and cap. . Not getting any with the new one.
Last edited by wilsjay; 10/27/2022 8:47 PM.
Jason Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.) 1950 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,832 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,832 | The new radiator will allow you to run a pressure cap that raises the boiling point 3 degrees for every pound of pressure. Then the condition of heater core becomes the limiting factor. Original cores will only handle around 4-7 PSI, less if they're in poor condition. Upgrade the heater as well as the radiator and you'll be able to run the pressure up to 12-15 PSI or so and not worry about boil over below 240 degrees or so.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 | Yeah the new radiator came with a pressure cap. I just wasn't sure if it was running too hot at the current temperatures I am seeing. Just trying to make sure I'm not jeopardizing my newly engine
Jason Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.) 1950 Chevy 3100 | | | | | Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,832 Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) | | Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer) Joined: Feb 2004 Posts: 29,832 | A 1950 truck would have been manufactured with a "zero pressure" cooling system. Any radiator cap over about a 4 pound rating is going to put your heater core at risk. You're much more likely to put the engine at risk from a burst heater core than you will by letting the temp rise above 200 on occasion. Modern engines don't even turn an electric fan on below 220, so going a little above the theoretical boiling point with no pressure isn't as disastrous as some people think.
Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt!
There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway
Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2018 Posts: 93 | Gotcha. I did notice the difference in caps, never thought about the heater core but I haven't hooked it up yet anyways. Thanks for the heads up.
Last edited by wilsjay; 10/28/2022 12:18 AM.
Jason Working on my first restomod on a 1950 3100 Shortbed (235 engine, 3 on the tree, disc brakes, etc.) 1950 Chevy 3100 | | |
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