I pretty much know the job I am looking at but just for grins, I thought I would share a post for purposes of conversation if you will.
The 51 Stovebolt I recently bought has a rebuilt 216 and guessing from some of the receipts that came in the folder with the truck, it was done around 2015. Last weekend after driving the truck 21 miles to a show and back, I discovered what looks to be the front crank seal leaking and a fairly good leak too.
Anyway, I am trying to think through the best approach to the job of replaceing the seal since the engine is in the truck. The crank pulley has to come off so it looks like the radiator needs to come out to get the needed room to get that done and I know the pan has to come off to get to the two bolts in there.
I'd drive it a while and see if it goes away or diminishes. The previous owner probably never drove the truck. Maybe the seal just needs to get used to doing its job.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I'd drive it a while and see if it goes away or diminishes. The previous owner probably never drove the truck. Maybe the seal just needs to get used to doing its job.
Good morning Otto! Good point. I see oil leaks and kind of freak out!
Man, my Cadillac's name is The Bismarck. I should have named it The Exxon Valdez.
I gave up worrying about oil leaks years ago. Adding a pint of oil once in a while is a lot easier than tearing apart an engine. If it gets to be intolerable, then do it.
Your engine bay looks too nice to mess with just yet.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Man, my Cadillac's name is The Bismarck. I should have named it The Exxon Valdez.
I gave up worrying about oil leaks years ago. Adding a pint of oil once in a while is a lot easier than tearing apart an engine. If it gets to be intolerable, then do it.
Your engine bay looks too nice to mess with just yet.
Haha, I guess I will drive it a while and see if the seal swells back up against the crank.
KThomas I have battled a lot of oil leaks,would begin by being certain it is the seal,want to see where the drip is coming from. Might try some snake oil seal softener if engine has set a lot. Snake oil is usually brake fluid !!
KThomas I have battled a lot of oil leaks,would begin by being certain it is the seal,want to see where the drip is coming from. Might try some snake oil seal softener if engine has set a lot. Snake oil is usually brake fluid !!
Check to be sure the road draft tube isn't clogged up. Unless there's a good vent system, crankcase pressure can push oil past even a good seal. Unless some detailed cleaning was done during the rebuild, chances are that the road tube isn't doing its job properly. It only works at speeds above 30 MPH anyway, so unless you put some miles on the truck above local street speed, the crankcase doesn't get vented well. The timing cover seal can be changed from the front side- - - -no need to pull the oil pan or the timing cover just to install a seal. Put a "Speedy Sleeve" on the balancer hub while it's removed. The same one that fits a small block V8 works on Stovebolt balancers. That expands the sealing surface by a few thousandths and makes the seal work better. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
There is also a special seal that moves the lip 1/8" forward or backwards (I can't remember which) on the balancer for use if the balancer has a groove. I have one somewhere in my spares. If I remember right it has the regular part number with an X on the end.
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Check to be sure the road draft tube isn't clogged up. Unless there's a good vent system, crankcase pressure can push oil past even a good seal. Unless some detailed cleaning was done during the rebuild, chances are that the road tube isn't doing its job properly. It only works at speeds above 30 MPH anyway, so unless you put some miles on the truck above local street speed, the crankcase doesn't get vented well. The timing cover seal can be changed from the front side- - - -no need to pull the oil pan or the timing cover just to install a seal. Put a "Speedy Sleeve" on the balancer hub while it's removed. The same one that fits a small block V8 works on Stovebolt balancers. That expands the sealing surface by a few thousandths and makes the seal work better. Jerry
Good day to you Jerry and Thank you for this information!! I have used those speed sleeves on a Farmall Cub tractors. Much appreciated!!!
I replaced the timing cover gasket, and installed a new seal with a speedy sleeve on the damper. All good now.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
In my defense, that mess didn't happen on my watch. It was that way when I bought the truck.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
When you drive the balancer back on, be sure to put something between the clutch cover and the bell housing to keep the hammer blows from damaging the thrust flange on the #3 main bearing. I use a wedge-shaped piece of hardwood driven between the clutch and the back of the bell housing. Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
When you drive the balancer back on, be sure to put something between the clutch cover and the bell housing to keep the hammer blows from damaging the thrust flange on the #3 main bearing. I use a wedge-shaped piece of hardwood driven between the clutch and the back of the bell housing. Jerry
I had a front oil leak on my 235 when I first bought the '48 years ago. I was not ready to fix it right so I wired a cookie sheet (the one with 1/2 -inch side) under it. I can't find a picture.
Oil would collect and later during rain it would wash out while driving. Don't tell the EPA but I think the statue of limitations is over.
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
Stovebolts, Detroit Diesels, British sports cars, and old Harleys- - - - -when they quit leaking oil, pour some more in- - - - -they're empty! Jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Stovebolts, Detroit Diesels, British sports cars, and old Harleys- - - - -when they quit leaking oil, pour some more in- - - - -they're empty! Jerry
Jerry, back in the 318 Detroit days, I can relate to what you said here, hahaha. And when the Silver 92 came out that was supposed to have been sealed better, they still leaked oil too!
