| |
Click on image for the lowdown. 
====
| | | Forums66 Topics128,186 Posts1,057,308 Members48,468 | | Most Online14,466
Apr 26th, 2026 | | AD Chevy Trucks  Over 6,000 pictures Brad Allen has an awesome collection of Chevrolet factory pictures that he has set up from film strips. Check them out!
Lots of work on Brad's part ... pure enjoyment (and references) for you!
| | THANKS!
For helping keep this great
old truck web site
on the Internet for over 30 years! and not clogged down
with Ads!  Again, thanks!
| | | | Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 26 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 26 | I'm sure there's a thread on here but my searching isn't finding it.
I'm fitting all the front body parts to make sure I understand everything and know what order to install things once painted. I note that both of the fenders I have that are good have a bracket on the cab and a hole on the fender brace to attach the lower back of the front fenders. But I cannot figure out how to actually attach the two. Was the fender supposed to have a nut welded to the brace? I think I saw a video where that was the case. Neither of my fenders have that although there's no damage or rust so I'm unsure.
I have two other fenders that are in bad shape, one is fully rusted out, the other has a bolt that's been welded to that location. So it's no help to me either.
How do I attach the lower back of the front fenders? | | | | | Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,363 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Feb 2011 Posts: 1,363 | I think I understand the question. Go here and look at the very bottom left hand side photo of the driverside cab. At the bottom front of the cab just at the front of the door bottom, and step/ rocker panel is a little bracket with a hole in it. And yes the fender should have a caged nut for the bolt that runs through that hole. To adjust the fender to be even with the door you add shims between that bracket and fender. https://dynacornclassicbodies.com/1955-1957-chevrolet-truck-cab/If you click on the photo it makes it bigger.
Last edited by Truckrolet; 10/25/2022 8:10 AM.
Kicking self for selling off my Taskforce trucks.
Still looking for an LCF or conventional big bolt in decent shape.
As of 10-26-2022, A 55.2 Taskforce long bed now the work begins
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 26 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 26 | Thanks! Any suggestions for how to make something work? I see three options, one not good. 1) Try to weld a cage nut from the outside. 2) Cut a slot in the side and use a wrench to put a nut inside and attach a bolt but not weld it. 3) toggle bolt. (not good solution  ) | | | | | Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 Bolter | | Bolter Joined: Apr 2005 Posts: 7,441 |
Martin
'62 Chevy C-10 Stepside Shortbed (Restomod in progress)
'47 Chevy 3100 5 Window (long term project)
‘65 Chevy Biscayne (Emily)
‘39 Dodge Business Coupe (Clarence)
“I fought the law and the law won" now I are a retired one!
Support those brave men/women who stand the "Thin Blue Line"! Hug a cop!
USAF 1965-1969 Weather Observation Tech (I got paid to look at the clouds)
| | | | | Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 26 'Bolter | | 'Bolter Joined: Jun 2015 Posts: 26 | Again, much thanks. Turns out I'd made two mistakes both related to looking ahead. I mounted the tops first and then started to mount the bottom. Then I used the bolts that came in the bolt kit I got and the bolt had nothing to grab on to. Turns out when I look really closely, it seems the nut is technically still there but seems to have been stripped and someone tapped the next larger bolt size threads. The bolt I had simply went in and out of the hole, another bolt actually grabbed the threads. That's what I get for not figuring all this out when the fender was separate and on the ground rather than trying to crawl up under and look around other stuff.
Live and learn I guess.
And I also learned Rivnuts is a thing, I'd never heard of that. Definitely will remember that in the future. | | |
|
|
| |
