Glad to hear this! I've been using Shell Rotella T4 15W-40 for the last few years on the advise of a stock car engine builder, when I was having lifter issues. He told me these older engines where designed to have zinc in the oil. He uses it for break in oil when he dinos. his race engines also.
Last edited by Chris's 46 / 515; 10/21/20222:43 PM.
I think that is higher than most oils but not quite the optimal amount as researched by the Classic Car Club of America. They produce their own brand of oil with 1600ppm ZDDP.
I've been using T4 for years but was recently told that they had reduced the amount of zinc in it. I believe it used to be around 1400ppm but I don't remember now. I'm glad to know you got the straight dope from the manufacturer.
Here is a link to purchase Classic Car Motor Oil and read more about ZDDP in oil if you wish.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I think that is higher than most oils but not quite the optimal amount as researched by the Classic Car Club of America. They produce their own brand of oil with 1600ppm ZDDP.
I've been using T4 for years but was recently told that they had reduced the amount of zinc in it. I believe it used to be around 1400ppm but I don't remember now. I'm glad to know you got the straight dope from the manufacturer.
Here is a link to purchase Classic Car Motor Oil and read more about ZDDP in oil if you wish.
The reduction in ZDDP is for nearly all diesel rated oils (Rotella T4 is one) came about with the introduction of the API CK-4 rating. I have oil analyses that indicate that happened around 2018.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
Shell reduced the ppm of ZDDP a few years ago. It was at one time 1600, then went to 1400 or so and now is 1200 (give or take...some weights are more like 1000ppm) I've read. There are better options if you want more ZDDP. Valvoline VR-1 still has 1400 last I checked and this should be plenty. There is one out there...Lucas Racing Oil I believe which has 2000ppm. At this point you may be flirting with too much and too much ZDDP will cause problems as your oil will become acidic and corrosive and you'll risk some serious damage.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
The reduction in ZDDP is for nearly all diesel rated oils (Rotella T4 is one) came about with the introduction of the API CK-4 rating. I have oil analyses that indicate that happened around 2018.
I'm using Rotella T1 heavy duty SAE 30 Diesel Oil since years -no problems so far.
I have generally used 15w40 Rotella T4 in SBC engines that do not get exposed to starting conditions below freezing. I believe it is a pretty good formulation for flat tappet cam shafts but probably not as critical in newer roller tappet type engines. There are a number of tests conducted by oil formulators required to optain an API License (such as CK-4, or its predicessor CJ-4). For new engine build break-in I typically add an additive to boost the ZDDP as an insurance policy toward reducing flat tappet camshaft break-in concerns.
There is a lot of pressure on the oil indsutry to develop lower viscosity grades (10w30, 5w30, etc.) associated with improvements in engine fuel efficiency with engine manufacturers trying to ensure that those formulations will function in their engines (both current and previous designs).
Straight grades like SAE 30 are getting extremely rare and it is not clear how long they will remain in the market.
How about 0W-20? That's the lowest one I've seen in the store.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy) 1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1956 Cadillac Sixty Special Fleetwood (The Godfather) | 1966 Oldsmobile Toronado (The Purple Knif) | 1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe | 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
~~ Jethro 1954 3100 Back to Life In the Dity Gallery 1951 3100 (gone) / 1956 4400 (still in the neighborhood) / 1957 6400 with dump body (retired) / 1959 3100 panel (in the woods junked) / 1978 Custom Deluxe K10 / 1993 S-10 4.3 / 2004 Chevy Crew Cab / 1945 John Deere H / 1952 John Deere B / 1966 John Deere 2510 / 1967 John Deere 1020
I did some digging the other day on the Rotella stuff. Every formulation I saw had 1200+, as Jon states. I should have saved it, but I think one of the T6 formulations was more like 1300. I was surprised by that.
With the valve spring pressures of a stock inline six, 1000 ppm is more then enough to protect the cam and lifters. It's very likely you can get away with any oil you want. I have been running standard 10--30 in my 250 for years, going on 19000 miles now, but I have US made Rhoads lifters. The Rhoads are quality made but also bleed off at low rpm reducing the spring pressure even more. Since the "oil issues " started back in '07 , I have yet to read where a stock engine has killed a camshaft or lifter that had been together for years. What you do read about is the new cams and off shore lifters, or the extreme lobe, thumper style cams going bad. Today it's off shore lifters, and no amount of additive or even luck, will keep them running.
Back in the late 50s when I began learning watchmaking one of the first things I discovered was how expensive specialty watch oil is. I couldn't afford even a small jar of it. One of the next things I learned is folks in the know would spray about 1 inch of WD-40 into a little jar (like a pimiento jar) and leave it alone for a week or two (it separates faster in cool weather). What one will get by doing that is two layers...a bottom layer (whitish and full of paraffins, propellants, fillers and various solvents) and a top layer which is nothing but a fine and light oil suitable for use in watch works, typewriters (was popular back then for that), musical instruments, electronic parts like variable resistors and tunable capacitors, guns, sewing machines...whatever. You can see it below. The top layer in that pimiento jar will lubricate possibly 1 million watches. And then in the 60s an older watchmaker explained why people generally don't like WD-40. His explanation? Most people pick up a can and immediately start spraying it, maybe shaking a little from side to side as they do or not shaking at all. Almost nobody mixes the stuff. So all they're spraying out is the junk at the bottom and when that's gone, all they're doing is spraying a fine light oil on things. And if you watch people use WD-40, I believe he was right. Good luck.
~ Jon 1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
I did my most recent oil change with Castrol 20w-50 Classic high zinc oil. I didn't look at the jug to see what the zinc was in ppm but I will next time.
33 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
A couple weeks ago I had emailed Mobil tech support to ask about ZDDP levels in there 15w-40 Delvac. That stuff is pretty consistently the cheapest 15w40 I can buy.
Got some weird response that their marketing department didn’t want to release that detail to “protect their data sheet.”
That's really weird. Their data sheet doesn't tell you that info anyway. Most oil data sheets that I have seen don't have that information.
I think you could get that info from Blackstone Labs, who had probably done an oil analysis (unused) on most of the oils on the market. If they haven't, a guy could spend $25 and send them a sample of virgin oil. The used oil analysis would still be pretty close on additives, as most aren't "used up".
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
" MOBIL DELVAC 1630 30wt HIGH ZINC, 1400ppm ZDDP, MOTOR OIL, 55 Gallon Drum. Mobil Delvac 1630, 1640, and 1650 are high performance monograde diesel engine oils formulated from advanced technology base oils and a balanced additive system."