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Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 162
L
'Bolter
'Bolter
L Offline
Joined: Feb 2022
Posts: 162
Getting ready to replace the oil pan gasket on the 216 ,while it is in the truck, from what I read it is easier to glue it to the block. What kind of glue do you all use?.


1953 with a 216
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,840
O
'Bolter
'Bolter
O Online: Content
Joined: Oct 2021
Posts: 6,840
I'd use Permatex Copper Spray gasket.


1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)

1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,282
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,282
My suggestion is to get the block surface squeaky clean, including the threads where the bolts go, and choose a very sticky sealant. RTV does not fit this bill. It takes too long to cure and is not sticky enough to hold the gasket to the block.
Hotrod Lincoln has mentioned Permatex 300 in the past.
Make sure that the pan is not distorted where it meets the block by bolting the pan to the block without a gasket and check for gaps. Feeler gauge works well for this. You may need to do some tinsmith work to the sheet metal pan. Commonly you will find that you will need to hammer the metal where the bolts go through the pan to correct damage caused by prior over-torquing of the pan bolts.
Take a look at how the four gaskets fit together at the ends before applying any sealant. They interlock somewhat. It is not possible to keep these interlocks in place without a very sticky sealant long enough to instal the pan.


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,819
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Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,819
Sticking the gasket to the block is a good idea- - - - -sealer isn't. You need contact cement, like 3-M weatherstrip adhesive. You want the side rail gaskets to stick to the block securely, so they won't slip around as you lift the pan into position. The yellow adhesive is known as "gorilla snot" around most of the tracks where I've raced. Spread a thin layer on the block, and the gasket, and let the stuff dry to the touch before attaching the gasket. It bonds instantly, so you need to be very accurate with the placement. Once the side gaskets are in place, the end strips get installed the same way, with the ends overlapping the side gaskets. Use a small bead of RTV at the corners where the sides and ends meet.

Start ALL the pan bolts before tightening any of them, then snug them up a little at a time. Once all the slack is removed, turn the bolts an extra 1/4 to 1/2 turn to compress the gaskets a little. Don't overtighten! Be sure the short nipple that sticks out of the bottom of the block engages correctly with the oil manifold in the pan. It's easy to damage the nipple or the manifold while installing the pan, which can result in failure of the connecting rods due to lack of lubrication.

Good luck!
Jerry


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