Yesterday I poured a 32 oz. bottle of Marvel Mystery OIl down each spark plug hole in hopes to free up the Engine. I will let it set for 4 or 5 days then try and free it up by hand. Someone has taken the starter off of this engine at least 9 yrs. ago , thats how long this truck sat along side a private farm road untouched. I did spray some Kroill down each spark plug hole about a week and a half ago. I checked the oil and it was full but it was black. Here is a few pics. of the dipstick and im hoping it is the original dipstick for this truck, maybe someone else here that has a 1953 Chevy Panel Truck can tell me for sure. Also is a pic. with the oil on the dipstick. Remember, the truck sat for 9 yrs. that I know of and im thinking maybe a bit longer. once i get the motor freed up,then I was going to drain it and put some new in. Then sometime later this month i want to pull the motor and transmission and sit then on a skid outside (because I dont have the space Inside) covered up untill the engine gets rebuilt a year or so down the road.
1953 Chevrolet 1/2 ton Panel Truck 3100 4800 LB. maximum rating, 85hp at 3300 RPM
Recently someone posted a chart with all the Chevy dipstick measurements. Do a search for that on this site using the magnifying glass on the left.
Also, your engine might not need to be rebuilt. You'd be surprised how well some of these engines run even after sitting for a decade.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 10/02/20221:31 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
Garageguy6078 Follow stovebolt free-up formula,be sure valves not stuck. Could put it in road gear and rock it both ways. With that much marvel in it watch out for fluid lock,could bend a rod that way,a full quart between all cylinders is a lot. Wouldn't rush into pulling the engine it may surprise you and be OK .Done one setting after 10 yrs. still fine today was in 82.They're tuff if they weren't they would be stamped into little toyota's by now !!
Garageguy6078, just offering some pointers on your project.
You can experience, what others have gone through, layer upon layer of never ending old truck problems if you try to solve each one as you progress. If you have the skills to do the work yourself and don't become frustrated, 10 years later (rough estimate) you will have something to enjoy. I don't mean to sound cruel but factor-in time to enjoy the fruits of your labor. Most everyone starts out wanting originality but you end up deciding between driver or show quality. Your budget plays a big part it this decision.
Thinking ahead before you commit: Why unstick a 216 babbit bearing engine if you end up replacing it with a 235 to give you more horsepower? Why repair a torque tube transmission and rear axle, that has a 4:11 of 4:56 ratio, if you ultimately want something for highway speed (above 55mph)?
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Im not pulling out the rearend , im wanting to keep my original motor if I find out that it is the original for sure !!! I cannot rock it because I have it on 4 dollies now. all 4 tires arent much good. only one holds air. besides i need to be able to move it around easily in my Garage.If ORIGINAL, id like to keep my motor,rearend and transmission !!! I have to pull the motor in order to do all my bodywork on firewall and cowl. plus I want to POR the Firewall and paint it. Therefore engine and trans can be pulled out,cleaned at a later date ,examined closer and cleaned and painted. Im going to drain the oi pan in about 4 or 5 days from now and put in some new oil. Better to try and get the motor to turn by hand now other than waiting till next spring.
1953 Chevrolet 1/2 ton Panel Truck 3100 4800 LB. maximum rating, 85hp at 3300 RPM
Buoymaker, I dont want something to run on the highway this day and age the way people drive, way too many nuts on the road today !!! Back when these trucks where made where i come from and grew up,there was no highways then. I choose to run rt 40 and back roads and enjoying my rides instead of being pushed down the road !! Just my opioin.
1953 Chevrolet 1/2 ton Panel Truck 3100 4800 LB. maximum rating, 85hp at 3300 RPM
I'm going to say a few more words then drop it. Maintaining originality is expensive, difficult and requires a lot of research. Did you know that POR-15 was not invented till 1978? Why then put it on your 1953 truck? Using POR-15 means you want to customize your vehicle to your own taste, which is your right to do, but it also means you are not thinking of 100% originality. If your are willing to bend a little more, you may be able to find a good running engine/drivetrain (I6 to V8 swap for example) and save yourself real $$$. A lot of people in this forum customize their trucks but try to keep the original look. One of the biggies is system conversion from 6 volts to 12 volts. I'm done preaching.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Buoymaker, youre right, Im not trying to make my Truck 100% original. It is very costly to bring it to that level. I would just like to keep my 216 engine ,transmission and rearend to keep that old driving feeling back when this truck was on the road in the1950's,60's and 70's !!! So that I may enjoy how that feeling was back then ,like my Dad did when he had his 1954 Chevy Panel Truck and I rode with him alot. My Truck, My Dream.
1953 Chevrolet 1/2 ton Panel Truck 3100 4800 LB. maximum rating, 85hp at 3300 RPM
