The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop Copper core spark plug wires

Does anyone here use them and where to get them? I just think 7K to 9K ohms is just too much, likely over stresses the coil too.

They went out of style for some very good reasons, over 50 years ago. Maybe an antique shop?
Jerry

Research indicates that the SAE ( Society of Automotive Engineers) recommends a maximum of 12,000 ohms per foot for resistance of spark plug wires. If that helps.

Truck', the pros and cons of copper core wires have been described and debated in other threads, so it's not my intent to weigh in on that. But, good quality resistance wire does not stress the coil, FWIW.

To answer your question directly, many of the restoration suppliers like YnZ have copper core wires available, if "period-correct" is what you want. Many of the "usual" suppliers also have them, such as this: Chevs of the 40s GM-stamped Spark Plug Wire Set.

Brillman is another good source that has options for both copper core and resistance core wire in sets that appear "correct" - select the style of wire and insulation from the drop down to see what options they have. Brillman Spark Plug Wire Set with Options for Either Copper or Resistance Core Wire. A bit pricy. They have sets for other years... I selected '41-'54 just as an example.

Hope this helps!

Doug

Resistance wires are fine for HEI type ignition systems.
Do the study, most all spark plugs have built in resistors.
When the high tension side see's resistance the voltage in the secondary windings increase, and is why some coils heat up and don't last long.
check this fellows site out
http://www.classicpreservation.com/sparkplugwiresets.html

OK, how about acetylene generators for headlights, hand cranks, tiller steering, clincher rim tires on wood spoke rims, and gloves, hats and dusters for the driver and passengers to wear?

How many HEI ignition systems were in existence in the late 1950's when GM made TVRS ("television-radio suppression" cable) ignition "wire" standard on all the vehicles they manufactured? It was a piece of nylon string, impregnated with graphite- - - -the first non-metallic ignition cable used as original equipment. I remember the old fogeys back then being critical of the stuff, but it more than doubled the lifespan of distributor caps, rotors, and spark plugs.
Jerry

No matter if you want the current sent to the spark plug non resistance wire is the way to go. No large aircraft engines have used a resistance wire to the spark plugs. High resistance in the secondary causes more voltage to be created in the coil, helping the possibility of flash over, very undesirable, and can easily happen at high altitude do to less air pressure. Would you run a high resistance large spark plug gap in your old 235 with old points? By the way the aircraft engines I speak of used a .012 -.014 spark plug gap if memory serves. The goal is or was to keep secondary (HV side) resistance low. The main reason for resistance wires was RF interference in vehicles, of course aircraft wires are totally shielded in a wire mesh tube of sorts.

When stovebolts start flying for more than a few seconds while going off a cliff, that argument might hold water. Until then, the stuff GM put on the truck at the factory (TVRS) will probably be just fine.

Real aircraft engines (radials) use low tension magnetos and coil on plug ignition so there's no high voltage to leak anywhere- - - - -no spark plug wires at all!
Jerry

Untrue. Many multi row, radial aircraft engines are high tension and run the long wires from the magneto to the spark plugs. The larger "late model" radial engines do use Low tension systems these are NOT coil on plug per se, there is a short shielded wire (8 to 10 inches) that runs from the coil to the plug.
I could post a picture of said wire if there is a way to do so.
It has nothing to do with stovebolts flying, its all about getting a nice hot spark so the thing will run.

I enjoyed reading this thread. I've always made my own spark plug wires, usually with Delco Packard 440 wire, that I solder the terminals on. I just assumed that this was proper and was best. Now after reading this, I realize that, at least, there are differing opinions from some knowledgeable folks. So, I have a good understanding of basic electricity and electronics, and actually went to school for it back in the 60s. But I have never understood the use of the term "tension" when refering to plug wires. Tension, to me means that something is being pulled tight or stretched, and I've never understood how this could be related to plug wires. Could some of you guys please explain that to me.

Did GM use solid copper wires originally because that was the only material available to do the job 70 years ago? Modern wires work just wonderfully on my fleet of Stovebolts today. I guess I am missing something in this discussion.

Tension, seems a word can have different meanings. High tension voltage I suppose is an old term and could be that it was coined because of the high potential difference between the conductors is an electrical "stress". Kind of like the "tension" formed if two people are in disagreement.

If you do a bit of a study on the topic you will find a good conductor will just do a better job of transferring the current to the plug especially if the insulation has begun to break down and has moisture on it.

https://www.chevyhardcore.com/tech-...t-spark-plug-wires-for-your-application/

Good article on the topic. And which type is admittedly the best?

Truckrolet That wire will make your neighbors mean !!! Gets into their soap opera's !!!

Not anymore than a lawn mower will. The actual radiated power levels are not much from an ignition wire, and then there is the inverse square law, that drastically cuts the power levels down. The only time the wires would be an issue is with certain in the vehicle electronics.
The spark arcing in the distributor cap will produce more high frequency RF than the wires will. Special note, most all TIG welders use a spark gap generator to produce the high frequency that starts and maintains the welding current.