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#1463414 08/21/2022 3:33 PM
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 18
M
'Bolter
'Bolter
M Offline
Joined: Dec 2021
Posts: 18
Folks, I’ve been struggling with my ammeter gauge needle bouncing around a lot and my headlights flashing within about 5 minutes of turning then on

Some basics: 55.1 3100, 235, converted to 12v, generator, 6v coil

I’ve had the gen tested twice with the voltage regulator as it turns out by the Starter/alternator guy that rebuilt the gen years ago. VR was bad so replaced it. I also ran a ground wire from the gen to the VR base. I also checked the headlight ground and they are solid. I put in JonG”s 200,000 hour condenser and replaced and adjusted the points. Also checked the battery and it load tested good. I’ve also polarized the gen, although the gen guy said the gen will hold its polarity for quite awhile after the battery is disconnected.

Anyway, the truck starts fine, runs good and the ammeter needle is relatively stable and essentially centered. When I turn the headlights on the ammeter moves to the discharge side of center and after about 5 minutes the headlights start turning off and on and the ammeter starts bouncing around a lot. I can turn the headlights off and back on and they work ok for a couple minutes then the symptoms start again.

Any help appreciated.


M. Hayden
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,774
H
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
Kettle Custodian (pot stirrer)
H Offline
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 29,774
There is a bimetal circuit breaker in the headlight switch instead of a fuse. In case of a short or a high current draw, the lights flash on and off instead of simply going out when a fuse blows. It's a safety factor to allow a driver to get stopped with a little bit of light instead of just flying blind. Almost all of the flashing light problems I've diagnosed and repaired since the early 1960's were caused by a short or a voltage leak to ground in the dimmer switch. It lives in a very hostile environment under the floorboard, where road dirt, rain, and salt try to destroy it, constantly. Halogen type headlights can also cause enough current flow to overload the circuit breaker in an original equipment headlight switch. Putting a set of relays in the headlight circuit and running only the relay energize current through the headlight switch and dimmer is the best long term solution to high current headlight problems.
Jerry


"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln
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Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,097
R
'Bolter
'Bolter
R Offline
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,097
The early headlight switches incorporated a circuit breaker. It could be that the switch is defective.

This is unrelated to the problem with the lights but you indicated that you have a 12 volt system with a 6 volt coil.
A correct 12 volt system should have a ballast resistor and use a 12 volt coil that is stamped with "for use with an external resistor".
A 55 up car or 55.2 truck will have the correct coil.
Fred


1956 3100 Pickup/Red/350/3sp OD/PS/Disc Brakes
1957 Bel Air Sport Coupe/Red/355/TH350/PS/Disc Brakes
2017 Silverado LT Single Cab SB/Black/5.3/6 Speed Trans
1947 Willys CJ2A w/F-Head engine
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
5
Renaissance Man
Renaissance Man
5 Offline
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 10,275
Make sure that the nuts on the back of the ammeter are tight. The last guy who worked on my truck neglected to even get one of them finger tight. He is an idiot.
No one but me has ever worked on any of my trucks, which is why I am so confident in my assessment of "the idiot's" skillset...


1952 5-window - return to "as built" condition | 1950 3100 with a 235 and a T-5 transmission
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 4,476
AD Addict & Tinkerer
AD Addict & Tinkerer
Joined: Feb 2019
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I had the exact same issue with my ‘52. It turned out to be the switch. Replaced it with a repo original style switch, which solved the problem.

Last edited by Phak1; 08/21/2022 7:58 PM.

Phil
Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals

1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube
Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes
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Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,482
J
Moderator, Electrical Bay
Moderator, Electrical Bay
J Offline
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,482
If the problem turns out to be your headlight switch (which is possible but not as likely as your dimmer switch) there is a headlight switch repair tutorial I wrote sometime around a year or two ago. Not in tech tips, sadly but it is searchable. Good luck.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end

Moderated by  Jon G, Rusty Rod 

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