Just fill it up until it reaches the full mark on the dipstick and then fill up the filter. Probably 6 total.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
My dipstick was not stock. I put in 6 qt of oil (I have a filter) and filed a notch on the dipstick where my "full" would be.
My dipstick did not match the oil level either. I added 4 qts to the newly rebuilt engine, then filed a line for the low level, added another quart and filed a full level line. My engine at the time did not have a bypass filter. I’ve added one since.
Last edited by Phak1; 08/16/202211:56 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
Adding the theoretical capacity of 6 quarts tends to overfill my engine. Not sure why. Perhaps sludge buildup in the pan. So I add 5….run the engine to fill the filter canister….and then top off.
The oil filter (canister and cartridge) was an option you could purchase from the factory or later at the dealership. Options were 1 quart (cars and trucks) and 2 quarts (big trucks).
Redbird On your oil level,if you keep it right on full you may have more trouble with rear main leaks,especially if you don't have positive crankcase ventilation. Had one once that dipstick was wrong got ready to do a rear main abortion,drained it liked to run my pan over. Once that happened I knew what it needed,after that was fine not perfect,they drip a little.
Fixite7, I'm having a very hard time figuring out what you are saying. 1.) The GM engine designers put the dipstick full mark in the wrong location? 2.) Someone put the wrong dipstick in your engine which caused you to overfilled it with oil? 3.) If you overfill the engine with oil, the rear main seal will leak?
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
If you discover you have the wrong one you can buy the right one for 75 cents.
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 08/17/20229:23 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
I may have to drain a quart. I put in 5 1/2 qts to take into account the oil filter. So the dip stick reads full. The 53 Truck Manual says 5 qts, but nothing about the filter. Guessing 5 qts only. So your dipstick would read a little low. Since I have a 54 Passenger car motor, I would guess the same.
1953 Chevy 3100 I have recreated my Dad's old work truck with a 5 window. Photos
Your oil dipstick may not be correct. Mine wasn’t and I remarked the stick. 5 quarts without the filter is correct.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
I may have to drain a quart. I put in 5 1/2 qts to take into account the oil filter. So the dip stick reads full. The 53 Truck Manual says 5 qts, but nothing about the filter. Guessing 5 qts only. So your dipstick would read a little low. Since I have a 54 Passenger car motor, I would guess the same.
I think you'll be fine.
Run the engine to get the oil filter filled up then check it cold. Dipstick should read full and filter will have about 1 quart in it. 6 qts total.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
My dipstick is 13 7/16 - 13 13/16 between the relevant points. Those numbers correspond most closely to the 53-55 Corvette.
5 qts fills it to the full line and about 1 qt fills the canister. What gives?
I guess I better see if I can scrounge up the engine numbers to see if it came from a Corvette?
Last edited by Otto Skorzeny; 08/18/20228:55 PM.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
The '47-'55 truck, '49-'54 passenger car and '53-'54 Corvette dipstick dimensions to the marks are all the same. Chevy spec'ed those at 13-5/16" and 13-13/16". I've attached the chart from the '62 Chevy Chassis Parts Catalog (found in group 1.516) for reference. In that catalog, only one P/N - 3701556 - is listed covering all of those engines. There's nothing unique about the Corvette dipstick dimensions.
I see. I didn't notice the listings above Corvette were for the same stick.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)
... but the Corvette dipstick will make your truck faster
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
As long as you don’t fill the canister past the small oil return hole in the central return pipe, it won’t raise the oil level in the crankcase.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
The oil level will go down the same amount that the filter takes but I think you already know that!
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
There was a discussion about this point in another forum. A guy remembers that his boss (auto garage) telling him to always prefill. I think the reason was a solution to head-off a possibility of a human mistake.
If you don't prefill you have to wait until the reservoir fills. Wait for the oil to travel through the 1/16" hole in the tube and down the hose back into the engine. It shouldn't make any difference in the oil pressure and bearing lubrication at idle speed. Assuming you first filled with 5-1/2 quarts and not 6 quarts to avoid overfilling. Stop the engine and add oil to the full mark. Run the engine and check again. Maybe repeat again several times. Prefilling can save time and maybe prevent under and over filling.
On modern engines with full flow oil filtration, the oil circulates in what seems like seconds.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
buoymaker I'm just saying that if the oil level is right up there level with the seal more likely to leak. Same way with the differentials,that oil level is just below the seals but when you drive the oil level will give the seals a "drink"when you get not level,once back on the level it equalizes. The hubs have a pocket that holds oil for bearing lube,it gets changed as you drive and get out of level at times. It's not that the dipstick is wrong,but pans get changed,dipsticks get changed,dipstick tubes get changed. Item 2 and 3 happened to my one ton,when I drained it I got way too much oil,well PO put in a dipstick tube to tall raised oil level above rear main seal !! Would leak sitting in the shed.
buoymaker I usually check my oil first thing while it's cold,then add oil till it approaches full. Would rather be slightly low rather than slightly high. Filter will be at the level of it's drain back hole,system will be ready for service.