The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Driveline Parking brake cable

1950 3100 parking brake replacement

I am stumped. T8 byhe cable is the right length but the cable housing stop bracket on the frame doesn't allow the cable clevis to reach the arm on the cross bar. Please see photos. They should better show the problem. I don't believe the bracket can be opened up to allow the housing to slide through. I think it would break.

Whatever you do, DO NOT try to expand the clamp. It WILL crack. If that happens, you'll be scrounging new ones from an old frame to replace them.

Those cables look exactly like the ones I bought from RockAuto. Didn't fit, and the return window had closed.
Bought cables from another vendor - they didn't fit either, and I was able to return them.
The Stovebolters put me on to cables from LMC Truck and they fit like the originals. They have a groove in the part that goes in the clamp that the bolt goes thru.Their PN 34-3806. But mine is a '51 with Bendix Brakes. They don't list that PN as fitting a '50 3100. But it might be worth a try as they're ~$20 each.

Excellent responses. I purchased 2 sets of cables and figured I would return the set that I didn't use. Neither one will work due to the excessive housing that prevents the cable clevis from reaching the arms on the cross bar. Those came from Jim Carter Trucks and Classic Parts.

I will try the LMC part recommendation assuming the housings are shorter will take up the slack leading to the clamp bracket.

It's pretty frustrating that they sell cables that aren't correct.

Does anyone else have experience with finding the correct replacement parking brake cables?

Good advice. I understand that the metal end of the cable housing needs to stop at the clamp bracket in order for the parking brake to function.

Kevin is right. I had the same issue that you are encountering. Those cables with the short ferrule won’t work and if you could get them in the clamp, would be dangerous. The original and correct ferrule is about 1-1/2” long and has two grooves, one for the boot and the other for the bolt that tightens the clamp. The idea behind it is, the bolt goes in from the top and passes along side of the ferrule in the groove, so if the nut came off of the bolt, the bolt would still retain the cable and the emergency brake would still function.

Those cables that allot of vendors are selling with the small ferrule could just slip thru the clamp and you would have no emergency brakes. It’s a lawsuit waiting to happen and hopefully nobody gets hurt in the process.

I purchased the right cables, part # 34-3806 from LMC truck, currently in stock.

Also I am wondering whether anyone has a better description of the proper adjust of the eccentric bolt for the parking brake. The description in my manual just isn't that clear. It sounds to me like the shoe just needs to have no pressure on it from the lever when the parking brake is not engaged. Maybe that simple?

I called Classic Parts and they claim that they have no record of the cables/housing being incorrect.

I am taking your advice about trying the LMC part. You are the second responder to recommend that part #. Thanks to all. James

Jim Carter claims to have had no complaints about their cables either. Looking forward to making the E brake/parking brake function properly.

I guess you can be first to let them know that they don't fit. I didn't buy one from Jim Carter as they want way more than $20 each for them.

Once you get the correct cables from LMC, you will see exactly why those other cables won’t work.


In the shop manual for a ‘50 1/2 ton, it basically says while the brake is released, loosen the lock nut on the clevis, remove the cotter pin from the clevis pin, pull the slack out of the cable, turn the clevis until the pin lines up with the lever, then install the pin and the cotter pin. Here is a link to that section of the Shop Manual

Thank you all for your responses. I have installed the shoes and adjusted. The cables recommended from LMC worked after I drilled out the housing bracket to accept the metal end of the housing. The old cables hardly worked at all.

I am looking for a replacement driver's side bracket. Mind has been welded and looks a little weak.
.

Good to hear!

I would contact Mongo’s Garage, who is a fellow ‘bolter and specializes in Vintage GM parts. PM him or call him @ (816)265-1462.

Good that you got it figured out.

I don't recall needing to drill out the brackets. Maybe yours needed it to clear out welding buggers. You'll need to find someone with a frame that they're willing to remove the bracket from to replace it.

We don't mess with the ancient cave man design of using a cross shaft. The rod from pedal to cross shaft is shortened, threaded, and a modern equalizer "banana" is used. A cable (garage door is best) is then run from one backing plate through the equalizer to the other backing plate. This duplicates what has been used for the last 60 years and applies the exact same tension to the shoes on both sides. Picture of a 52 3100 with an open driveshaft rear end:

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/mhTgykgk/S10-048.jpg[/img]

[img]https://i.postimg.cc/hJFm0mj6/S10-049.jpg[/img]