The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Paint and Body Shop Cab Rotisserie

I am getting close to blasting the cab, just a few more things to do to the frame. I rebuilt the cab mounts, now I need to clear the shop so I can get the rolling frame under the already hanging cab. It’s my hope that I mount the cab on the already painted frame and install the body stiffeners, brace the cab and remove from frame. Has anyone made a cab rotisserie and specific points of attachment for the cab stiffners?

I only fabricated a wooden dolly for it. I’d lay a couple of moving blankets on the floor and roll the cab onto the blankets if I needed to work on the bottom of the cab…. The cab isn’t that heavy. I also started out with stiffeners welded in, but later found no reason for them on my project, so I removed them. Cab turned out perfect.

Cab on dolly pics

Cab finished

Here is one for sale here on the "Stovebolt" and it's very reasonable.

Stovebolt Rotisserie

It's a long ways from your house but maybe you can find a cheap way to get it to you by posting in the "Hauling Board". At the very least "MOTOXFAMILY" might be willing to provide you the specs to build your own.

Good Luck

John

Once I restore the cabs structural integrity, I bolt two 8" 2X4s to the firewall through several existing holes. I then can reach up and pull out and down on the 2x4s to ease the cab on the ground, laying it down onto the 2x4s, firewall down. During this process, no metal touches the concrete. It is easy to lift it back upright as well.

Here's some pics of the cab rotisserie that I built using two engine stands. They cost me $50 each, plus another $40 or so for additional steel for fabrication. The brackets bolt on to the hinge pillar and lock striker areas. When I was done with it I sent the brackets off to another bolter who's using it on his cab.
The engine stand uprights needed to be extended so the cab could spin 360 degrees, so got some tube steel for that, and some angle iron for the brackets to bolt to the cab.

If you're interested, I can send a diagram of how I put it together, and determined the center of rotation for the cab. With all the metal welded back in, it was a little nose heavy, but manageable.

Here is a copy of the one I built and used. I had it for sale but is now sold. Worked great. I also mounted to the hinge frame and striker area.
Ron

Once I finish the structure issues with my cab bolted to the frame I am going to flip it forward or backwards depending on need to finish welds, clean and paint the bottom.

The 2x4 method listed above seems like the way to go. I will have dollies so I can roll it around while in different positions.

Bolted cab down today. Heading to the store for some metal for the reinforcement. I’m going to build Deve’s Technet style engine stand rotesserie. Thanks for your ideas.

Is that 8” or 8’?

That is one fantastic rotisserie and whomever bought it from you got a great deal, but unless you plan on restoring multiple car/trucks (in my opinion), Kevin’s (Klhansen) is much more compact, simplistic, probably cheaper and easier to build.

You also can’t go wrong with 52carl’s idea with bolting 2x4 to the firewall. We just need clarification on the details and maybe a photo would be great.

I did have plans on doing more cars in the future, but life got in the way, and the truck is taking longer than planned. Now looking to move, thats why it went up for sale. I bolted a lot of the structure together instead of welding. That way it broke down and stored flat in the corner. I agree a rotisserie makes life easy and the cheapest way to go is the engine stand method. It made painting easy. could do the whole cab in one shot.