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I have what is indicated on the registration, a 3Ton 48 Chevy Dump Truck. My problem is 'How do I remove the brake drum to redo the brakes'. I have 20 inch wheels. I have checked many sites but none show how to remove the drum. Any ideas?

Thanks

You need to get a service manual. Messing with that rear axle without it is a disaster waiting to happen.

Hy Naylor, Some rear drums on the big trucks are inboard mount, that is the hub is mounted on the outside of the drum, to remove these you usually have to knock out the studs once you have the whole hub/drum assembly off the truck. The other type is outboard mount, these are usually retained by countersunk screws which you can see once the wheels are removed, hope this helps

From experience on my '48 2ton, I can tell you the most difficult part will probably be getting the drum over the brake shoes. If there is any ridge on the inside of the drum, it will take alot of tapping and prying. The first thing you should do is to try pushing in and turning the spring loaded bolts on the backing plate next to the wheel cyl. These adjust the threaded rods in the end of the wheel cyl. in and out. See if you can "back off" the brake shoes by adjusting the wheel cyl. in. If you can, this will save alot of headache down the road.

It's been awhile since I had mine apart, but I do remember that my wheel cyls. were frozen and I couldn't back them off. I think I used a big mallet and a pry bar then just kept working my way aroud the drum and I slowly got it worked over the brake shoes. :rolleyes: I also recall using a large three jaw wheel puller to put pressure on the drum while I beat on it.

I think Naylor want to know how to get to the brake shoes. You'll have to remove the hub and drum as an assembly on a 48. I'm sure you don't have a 3 ton as indicated on the title. The title just states what it's licensed for. You probably have a 1 1/2 or a 2 ton. Either way, you'll have to pull the little cover in the center of the hub and pull the axle out. Under the axle, there's a large nut with a tab bent over it. Straighten the tab and remove the first nut, then the lock, then the next nut. Now the drum is not fastened to the spindle, but still may not come off. The shoes can drag on the drum so you'll have to work at getting the drum to pull off over the shoes. Good luck and don't breath the dust!
Scott

That's right Scott, now I remember!!! Big nut, lock tab, big nut. Been awhile since I did that. I do know that this is definately time to replace the axle seals so you don't have to take it apart again. That part I remember.

Pakrat, you are correct, I too have "been there, done that" with those darn seals!
Scott

good deal, really just sounds identical to the modern FF axles like the dana 60 and 14 10.5" etc.

nothing special, just ordinary same as nowadays stuff, two big nuts and the nut locks

same deal

good luck

Thanks Scott. I too am from Center Point. Everything checked out. The wheel cylinders were both frozen and NAPA had new ones. The truck checked to be 1 1/2 Ton by the serial #.
Thanks for the help guys.

Hey 3B, Pakrat and 48 Big Trucks and Others: Orange has a question?????, I know that the manual describe the process for brake removal, but for those new to the big bolts especially the duals on the rear and its brake components it would be really nice if we could all get together and do a piece to post in the technical section using digital photos. Some people learn by seeing rather than reading. The tech. piece could begin from the removal of the tires to replacment of the brakes.

I mentioned in an earlier post that I purchased a 6100 Dump with Duals on a single rear axle, one side is siezed and that other side turns freely. The farmer I bought the truck from advised me that the fella that he hired to do the brake repair,wasn't really confident in his repair. I cant move the ole girl till its fixed in the field or call for the wrecker. I don't want this or any other big bolt in my area scraped because of lack of knowledge.

I am willing to take digital photos of my before, during and after of my brake repair and provide a detailed list of costs, parts numbers and options that I found to correct the rear brake issue as it applies to the 55 2nd series 6100 Dump Truck. Anybody interested in helping out little project. Also, a stop at my local NAPA, and the books they have do not show any spring kits available for the 55 2nd Series 6100, are the spring kits the same for later production bolts. Maybe the moderator could advise if this is worthwhile task. Please post your thoughts when you get a free moment. Thanks! Orange

Orange, if your wheel dont turn and you cant brake off the shoes, then you only got one option left. Take the whole assembly off including the backing plate. It wont be pretty, and you need to get someone to help you lift it and keep it straight as it slides off. Make sure you block up the truck real well, and be careful pulling off. Big trucks make bigger owie's.

Ah, you're the fella that bought Art's green truck. Did the flywheel I sold you work out for you? Glad you decided to join in. Iowa is really making it's self known here now days.

I saw the dumper down by the elementary school with the Chevelle and the F1. I presume that's where you are at. I'll have to stop in some time for a tour of the fleet,
Scott

BTW, 48, the three ton registration is how much the truck was licensed for. My 48 1 1/2 ton I licensed for six tons just in case I got caught coming out of the gravel pit too heavy. One fine would cost more than the registration would. It's the treasurer's way of charging us more for our plates,
Scott

PS - You should stop out and check out my latest aquisition!

Scott, in order to use the original starter I had to use the old 8 bolt flywheel. The one I got from you had 39 more teeth than the original. She runs now and goes down the road. I stop out when I get a chance and that is where I live.

Hi All, I'm brand new here. Love the site. I just limped home in a 55 Chev 6100 Dump. The pictatorial brake job sounds like a great idea! from my 80 mile drive home, I need at least the following parts: Brakes (cylinders and shoes), front end parts and a clutch! haha Anyway if any of you know a good parts scource for the trucks...please post it! I'm down here in Northern NM. after I shooed the mice out of the cab, the old girl fired up and I foolishly drove throught the mountains of Southwest CO back home. Thanks to all!

Whaddya mean "foolishly"? Ya made it,didn't ya? BTW-welcome to the zoo.;=D
Speed

Hello, Elko. How are things at the Star? I liked the basque dinners there many years ago.
One thing to consider regarding getting the back drums off the big iron... My left rear was locked up and I couldn't get the drum off after removing the nuts and all. It turned out the emergency brake mechanism was corroded and locked in the "on" condition even when the cable was slack. I soaked it and tapped it with a hammer to work it loose. That released the shoes and the drum came right off with a bit of tapping over the shoes. It's worth a try if the drums refuse to come off.

Come on guys, brakes are just an over rated option.

Its the new guy here again. Help! I need wheel cylinders for both front and rear wheels. they all are leaking horribly!...No brakes at all now. Found out i drove all that way with one of two shoes on the right front wheel working. all the other brake lines were capped with plumbing hardware. So much for a thourough pre-flight inspection! hehe Anyway, no cylinders are available for the origional 7/8 clinders on the front. Do any of you guys know of other (newer) models that I may interchange and get new cylinders? Rears are available at NAPA but darn expensive. Never had any real luck with the rebuild kits. Also need new kingpins... She is on blocks now and I need to fix her right. Thanks in advance.

They aren't cheap, but Jim Carter has them.

Front

Rear

4.3 Thanks a lot. Bit the bullet and ordered em. I'll let you all know how it turs out