I want to try and start the 235 on the engine stand/dolly but am unsure how. Check my list please and tell me what I’m forgetting and if I have it right.
1. Place rubber fuel line from pump in container of gas 2. Connect wire from one side of coil to the distributor 3. Connect wire from the other side of coil to the starter switch (or + battery post?) 4. Connect positive battery cable to starter switch 5. Connect negative battery cable to a ground on the engine block
I have a keyed switch I could use if I knew how to wire it up.
Thanks!
Chuck 1950 Chevy 1/2 ton (all original) 1951 Chevy 1/2 ton (future streetrod) 1941 Chevy coupe 1938 Chevy coupe streetrod
'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12 '52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
Mark spark plug wires location and remove spark plugs. Spray a little bit of lubricant into the cylinders. Rotate the engine by hand to see if it will turn freely. Replace spark plug and wires. Short exhaust pipe to muffler or wear ear plugs. I squirt oil on the rocker arms and get it down into the lifter galley onto the camshaft. Connect an old oil pressure gauge and water temperature gauge. Pull the distributor cap and remove distributor. Insert homemade oil pump priming rod chucked into a hand drill. Run drill and check if oil pressure comes up and oil getting to the rocker arms. Replace the distributor and do a static timing. If you get the engine to run, you can do a temporary rig for cooling using a garden hose. I also have a radiator I use to test the engine for a length of time especially to test overheating caused by a warped head or cracked block etc.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
Here is what I use for V8 engines, the cooling fans are A/C condenser fans I came across, it takes a lot of air to cool a rebuilt V8. For just a test run, hook up a garden hose to the lower radiator hose and run the top hose out away from you. Adjust the flow rate so the temperature stays warm, not to hot or to cold. Also hook up some sort of muffler out away from where you are working, you need to hear the engine and what it's doing, with open exhaust you will never hear trouble till it quits. Oil pressure gauge and temp gauge would be helpful, my stand has a tachometer, oil, temp, voltage for points, and voltage for electronic ignition. I also use an electric fuel pump to prime the system and to run the motors but a mechanical pump will also work.
I use three switches, 1, is ignition ( simple on/off battery voltage to ignition ) 2, fuel pump on and off, 3, push button for starter ( battery voltage to { S } terminal on the starter solenoid )
And three switches on the radiator cooling system, one for each fan.
Basic stuff, Have a good know to work carburetor with fuel in it, Have a cooling system, Have a good know to work ignition system ( distributor ) with good wires and plugs. Have a fully charged battery, generator and or alternator if possible ( they run better with full voltage ), Have a working exhaust system.
Basic wiring,
Battery to starter just as if it was in the truck. No need for key switch, a simple push button works or some mechanical way to use foot stomp button on starter. Distributor wire to ( - ) terminal of coil. Battery wire or resistor wire to ( + ) side of coil. To shut down engine, you will need to pull this wire off, or switch off with toggle switch. Wire can come of battery, or starter.
Spotbilt xo Don,t forget about torque of a running engine,it can upset on an engine stand if you "punch it". Started a 327 on the floor at junk yard was all we could do to hold it !!
