Mine is slightly torn…does anyone have a modern part # that will work?
I’ve kinda temporarily glued it back together with a very thin layer of RTV. It works, but I plan to have the carb off this weekend and don’t want to button it up like that again.
I believe the original Carter part # is 1A-31. That seems to be a dead end.
Thought maybe rockauto would come through for me if I looked at a later 235 vehicle, but looks like the factory Rochester gasket has vac openings that are clocked differently.
Got to thinking that some Jeeps had factory YFs. I can find a part # but no luck finding a picture of it to compare.
Worse comes to worse, I will cut my own. But figured it was worth asking.
The Carter YF 2100S is a replacement carburetor marketed for the Rochester B used on 1950-56 235 engines. What is needed between the flange and the intake manifold insulator depends on the insulator and it follows logic that you use whatever GM used from the factory. In the picture, the YF2100S flange will align (red line) with the recessed area on the insulator to be open to vacuum. No gasket is needed BUT both surfaces have to be dead flat with each other. What if the insulator has no recesses? Compare with the YF 966S (1950-52 235 engines). In a nutshell, you use 1A-31 (or equivalent gasket).
Carter went out of business back in the mid 80's. Gasket manufacturer's today try to make one flange gasket to fit a multitude of applications so the design of what is available adds to the confusion.
Last edited by buoymaker; 07/09/20224:43 AM.
"Adding CFM to a truck will only help at engine speeds you don't want to use." "I found there was nothing to gain beyond 400 CFM."
I debated with myself about making this post, as some might say it is self-serving, and do not wish to do that.
Inventory at FLAPS will vary. We have two FLAPS (NAPA and O'Reilley's). NEITHER CARRY ANY CARBURETOR PARTS, NOT EVEN FOR PERFORMANCE HOLLEY!
While I do have a Fel-Pro master catalog, we have never purchased more than a couple of hundred Fel-Pro gaskets (this in a gasket assortment at a swap meet), so have never spent the time to page through the book, and enter the data into my own computer parts interchange database. This would be extremely time-consuming as Fel-Pro lists parts BY APPLICATION, not by O.E. number. I would have to look up the application to get the original O.E. number, then compare that gasket to the Fel-Pro picture (many of the Fel-Pro gaskets replace? more than one original number, so are not exact).
We stock (or make) virtually every mounting gasket used by a U.S.A. car or truck manufacturer from 1974 to at least 1930, and most back to about 1915.
Shipping an individual gasket, at least for us, is expensive. We simply do not sell individual parts, except when they can be shipped at the same time as a rebuilding kit. So it might be worth considering to order a couple of extra mounting gaskets when one purchases a rebuilding kit. They are not really expensive when purchased in this manner, as there is no additional shipping charge for the additional gaskets.
I no longer drive my older vehicles far from home, but when I did, I had a small box in the trunk with: a set of points, a condenser, a rotor, a distributor cap, a coil, a set of fan belts, a set of radiator hoses, a radiator cap, a set of plugs, a roll of electrical wire, a roll of electrical tape, a roll of electric fence wire, and a carburetor mounting gasket.
In a separate box, I carried a couple of quarts of motor oil, and a empty 1 gallon plastic milk jug.
Also, a small box of tools.
It has been a long time ago, but driving home from the inlaws with the wife and kids at about 60 MPH and the engine died. Coasted to the side of the road, and diagnosed the problem; the contactor arm on the points had broke in two. So, opened the Bayer bottle in the glove box with the wooden matches, and opened the trunk and cut two small pieces of the electric fence wire, lit the match, blew it out, then broke the match in half. Used the match halves and the wire to spice the contractor arm, adjusted the point gap with a dime, and drove home (about 30 miles) at a reduced speed. This happened in the Baja boondocks of central Missouri; there were no stations in the 30 miles on the way home. And of course, this way before cell phones.
It does not hurt to attempt to be prepared.
Jon.
Good carburetion is fuelish hot air The most expensive carburetor is the wrong one you attempt to modify. If you truly believe "one size fits all," try walking a mile in your spouse's shoes! The Carburetor Shop
