Good evening. I am definitely not an expert, but I don't think my 1954 Chevy 1/2t has the original spring pack in the rear. It looks very thick compared to other pictures I've seen and does not match anything I've seen in the assembly manual including up to the school bus models. Width is 1 3/4" and hangers and shackles look like the assembly manual. I count 15 leaves.
Can anyone confirm this is not correct and if it's not, any guesses what it is? Were multiple packs combined into one? Old aftermarket? Thank you in advance.
The rear springs on a 1/2 ton from 47 thru 55 first series contain only 8 leaves per the Master Parts Catalogue. My ‘52 3100 has 8 leaves.
Last edited by Phak1; 07/05/20221:48 AM.
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
That's WAAAAYYYYY too much spring for a 1/2 ton- - - - -both frame and wheel bearing-wise, not to mention tires. Somebody has done the equivalent of adding one super heavy chain link to the middle of a string of paper clips- - - -it does nothing for the overall load carrying capacity. jerry
"It is better to be silent and be thought a fool than to speak and eliminate all doubt!" - Abraham Lincoln Cringe and wail in fear, Eloi- - - - -we Morlocks are on the hunt! There is nothing noble in being superior to your fellow man; true nobility is being superior to your former self. - Ernest Hemingway Love your enemies and drive 'em nuts!
Looks like someone has doubled up on at least 5 of the leaves. You can see the photos that there are leaves that are the same length, which is not original. You could put it back to original by removing those extra leaves. You'd need to put new intermediate clips on it, and shorten the u-bolts and spring pack center bolt.
Kevin 1951 Chevy 3100 work truck Follow this saga in Project Journal Photos 1929 Ford pickup restored from the ground up. | 1929 Ford Special Coupe (First car) Busting rust since the mid-60's If you're smart enough to take it apart, you darn well better be smart enough to put it back together.
If you do decide on splitting the spring pack and eliminating the additional leaves, do yourself a favor and install the teflon or plastic liners between the leaves. It quiets the spring and softens the ride. It will increase the spring pack height and require a u-bolt that is longer then stock, but you need to replace or shorten your existing one anyway, so thats not a problem. Here is what I used. [LINK]
Phil Moderator, The Engine Shop, Interiors and Project Journals
1952 Chevrolet 3100, Three on the Tree, 4:11 torque tube Updated to: ‘59 235 w/hydraulic lifters, 12v w/alternator, HEI, PCV and Power front Disc Brakes Project Journals Stovebolt Gallery Forum
The first thing I would do is check the bottom leaf for the last four digits of the spring part number. Looks like you have the heavy duty 10 leaf springs. 8 Leaves 3683317 10 leaves 3705452 The clips on the spring are junk, they are not spring clips. Your springs used four clinch clips. They are riveted to the first leaf in the clip. This keeps the clip from moving around when the spring flexes. They also help determine the deflection rate (spring rate). Whatever clips you use, bolt or clinch make sure it has a pin for the hole in the first leaf. I personally would not add anything between the leaves, paint, Teflon or plastic liners. Over time they will wear out and loosen the spring pack. They do not “soften” the ride. The spring rate will determine the softness. I would have a good spring shop rebuild the spring. It shouldn’t cost a lot because you have all the leaves.
Thank you all for the assistance and advice so far.
I cannot see any numbers on the bottom spring now but it may be easier to see with it removed. I will update the thread with what I find. Each pack has 5 pairs of nearly identical length springs so removing the doubles would give me 10 springs per pack. The only springs I see with a hole in them for a clip are currently the 6th from the top, which is where the existing "clips" are.
All that added thickness looks to put a lot of steel below the bottom of the rim (and very close to the pavement, think puncture). New springs are not that expensive if you research ‘all’ the usual suppliers, reconditioning springs also works but I’m a fan of new USA “made to match originals” if you can afford it.
Eaton-Detroit makes great springs for virtually every vehicle ever made.
1950 Chevrolet 3100 (Ol' Roy)
1939 Packard Standard Eight Coupe (The Phantom) | 1956 Cadillac Coupe de Ville (The Bismarck) | 1964 Ford Galaxie 500 coupe |1966 Ford Mustang (Little Red) | 1969 Pontiac GTO (The Dishpit) I 1979 Ford F-100 | 1976 Ford F-150 (Big Red) | 1995 Ford F-150 (Newt)