The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop New oil filter hose problem on 235

I pulled the oil filter can off the exhaust manifold to get to the heat riser flap for some recent work, and my upper line broke in half due to age. That was fine with me, since I had everything out of the way it was a good time to replace them. To replace the line, I took the can all the way out and cleaned it up, probably will paint it too. But after ordering my new hoses from classic parts, I'm wondering how everyone else manages to install them.

First thing I noticed on taking them out of the box is that they do not have the 90* fittings on both ends of the two lines. That's not so much a problem seeing that the lower ends that attach to the engine block will be easier to put in anyway. But what gets me is there are no rotating fittings like the old lines. The old lines had at least one end that allowed the thread insert to rotate on a pressed on collar. These new ones don't have those. SO!

How do you manage to tighten the opposite ends that have the same directional threads on two separate lines?? I can see if it was just one. I'd stick the one on the block on first and twirl the can until the upper end was tight. But how do you do that with 2 lines? Seems to me that by not having a fitting that allows spinning in place fittings will keep this from working on the second hose after connecting it to the block. By having the first hose mounted, spinning the can to get the second hose connected will only put the first hose in a bind. Am I missing something here?? In the end, it's really disappointing that CP can't find fittings that match the original "thought out" hose fittings. Which brings me to my next question- can someone tell me where to get the correct OEM type hoses? My truck is original, and besides wanting to use the original style (like I just removed), I'd also like to get this done without a lot of headaches. Thanks for any replies or comments (and references to OEM style hoses). Lee

showme,

See link below for source of correct style hoses with 90 degree fittings and rotating fitting nuts.

https://www.classicparts.com/1941-59-Oil-Filter-Lines-6-Cylinder/productinfo/84-151/

Think this will solve your problem.

There are other solutions posted previously. Use the "Stovebolt Site Search" in left margin for related info.

Lee,
My hose kit was a "Gates" and it came with the two fittings in a separate bag.
It sounds like someone forgot to put it in with your your box?
I had to buy one 90 degree angle fitting. (At the top of filter)
The bottom one I just used it straight.
PS I don't remember where I got my kit, it was 4 years ago.

Dan- Yep, that's exactly what I bought. And after reading what Schaffer's 1950 said about fittings in a separate bag, I looked a little closer at those silver fittings on the ends of mine, and that's the ticket. I actually pulled them off last night out by the truck and was thinking they sent those in case there was another size bushing on the engine for a different year or something, although I was confused as to why they would transfer from the size of the brass fitting to another and back to the original size. Didn't make any sense until I looked at them just now and found out why they do that. They're rotating joints. Duh!!

As I said, it was getting dark and I'd just pulled the filter case and fought off the old block lines, not to mention being a little irritated at what I thought was a screw up on classic parts end. I should have known when I was trying to unscrew what I thought were two extra fittings and got in too big of a hurry to see what was there. But I've got it now. Thanks very much for kick starting my brain, guys. Sometimes I can't see the forest for the trees.

Glad it all worked out Showme!

FWIW, think we all sometimes suffer from "Duh" moments (me included).

As long as we can laugh at ourselves and keep going, all is good.

Well, for the sake of understanding why I didn't figure those fittings out, last night I got out there to put them on and one of them (probably the one I fiddled with the first time) was jammed on there so tight it wasn't turning until I grabbed it with my channel locks and forced it to move. After it freed up, it's spinning fine, but I think that's why I couldn't figure out what they'd sent me.

I would still rather have the OEM fittings and hoses, due to the 'originals' that were on the truck having rotating fittings on both ends, although smaller than the brass fittings on the new ones.

When I put them on yesterday evening, I started at the block so I could get that out of the way while everything was out of the way (throttle linkage, oil can, etc.), only to find after I had them on that the brass fittings do not rotate as the old copper ones did. So, off they came again and I started at the other end. Then it got dark. So I'll have to get under it and attach at least one of them from the bottom, which will probably be easier anyway. My right forearm and elbow were punished by reaching around the steering column and linkage. Strange how when you think you're smart enough to figure out a simple job, it still kicks your butt anyway.

AND! I lost the keeper clip for the throttle linkage pin for the second time this job by pulling it off to get to the back hose point.

showme Glad that worked out for you,it is hard to see in the trees !!

Got everything back together today (exhaust, hoses, bi-metallic spring, etc), and although all is well, I'm worried about one of the rotating fitting classic parts sent me with the hoses. They're on, but one of the rotaters isn't acting right after it was installed. The forward hose (top hose) is fine and tight, but the rear hose on the engine block feels loose even though the hose fitting is tight and the block end of the rotating coupler is tight, but the center section of that coupler feels loose. It moves when I wiggle it. Not the threaded sections, just the center rotating section between the brass hose fitting and the aluminum(?) threaded fitting that goes into the block. I see visions of oil running out of that fitting when I start it. We'll see. Anybody have any history with these fittings from CP? I sure hope I don't have to get down there and replace that one after all this work.

Trying to use flex hoses is a nightmare. Why not plumb the system with 1/4" diameter hard lines, maybe the easy to bend green-colored copper/nickel tubing that's used for fuel and brake lines? They come in various lengths, with double flares and inverted flare nuts already installed, so all that needs to be done is to install the proper adapter fittings to go from pipe threads to inverted flare female on both ends. If you desire, you can make a 360 degree vibration loop in both tubes by wrapping them around a large 1/2" drive socket or a piece of PVC pipe. The only reason for flex lines on the original filters installed at the dealer was to make it easy to find a mounting point on the intake manifold for various makes and models of engines. Hard lines also eliminate the danger of getting a flex line too close to an exhaust pipe and melting it, resulting in a massive loss of oil and an engine failure.
Jerry

Thanks, Jerry, I may have to try that. Haven't started it up yet to check for a leak, but I sure don't feel comfortable about the way that rotater is moving around. Probably that one that was jammed up when I got it. But since I've already paid for them and have them on there, I'll probably just find a good fitting and change out that bad one (if it is bad). And if that doesn't go well, then it's on to the hard lines. Thanks for that suggestion. Wish I would have thought of that before I ordered (or at least dirtied up) the hoses.

I used Cu-Ni (copper Nickel) on mine after multiple leaks with the ones I ordered from Classic Parts. Here is the post That shows the results. https://www.stovebolt.com/ubbthread...s-filter-with-hard-line.html#Post1437615

I’m thankful that Royal Brass and Hose is just down the street and will make flex lines while I wait at the counter, usually. If not I can go grab a bite and come back

Nice set up, Phil! I like your pressure gauge. My engine has never been as clean and shiny as yours, though. Doesn't leak oil, but is the old, rusty looking engine it has always been. And R, that must be nice. Wish I knew of some place like that here. But I have a tube bender and although I don't have a flaring tool for double flares, I've been looking at one on JEGS for years I wanted to get "just in case I need one".

Mine wasn't either until it got a total rebuild. Perfect time to make it clean and shinny.

As for the flaring tool, don’t buy one from HF as you will be disappointed in the results. Buy a quality one and you’ll never look back. CU flares easy, but do make. Few practice pieces, enough to get the hang of it.

I’ve been wanting to do an engine bay pressure gauge, but was struggling with how to beat plumb it. Looks like you put one tee into another? And then a 45 degree fitting to orient the gauge?

Looks sharp.

The 45° tee makes it easier to read and thanks!

It’s a 45 degree tee? Or a tee plus a 45 degree fitting?

It’s a street tee with a 45° street elbow. But looking at it now, I can’t for the life of me figure why I didn’t just turn the fitting 45°. Brain fart maybe.

Thanks, Phil. I don't buy anything from HF unless A) it's an emergency and no where else is open, or B)it's something that's meant to be thrown away after use (nitrile gloves, rags, etc.) I always buy commercial/industrial grade tools if I can find them. As a retired Ironworker, I've always looked at my tools as investments that I'd like to keep and use for the rest of my life. Plus, in Ironworking, one failure of a tool can cost you your life. My wife use to get bothered when I'd spend $70 on a spud wrench or sleever bar, until I told her about a guy who was prying a beam into place with the wrong 'cheap' tool that broke. He fell off the iron and died. She's never questioned my higher quality tool purchases since then.