The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area The Electrical Bay Horn Bracket

Clamps to the manifold

That's pretty good idea.

How is the horn button/cap attached to the springy round thing on the wheel?

Do the spring steel edges of the round thing go on the inside of the cap or on the outside?

Also, does the nut holding everything on require a washer? Mine did not have one when I removed it.

Where does the horn button wire enter the steering column?

Now that the rusty ebay horn with bracket is on the way, I need to figure out the rest of the installation. The horn I have tests and works well. I installed a new horn contact bushing (plastic thing with spring loaded brass ends) and the brass contact plate on the column is clean and shiny all around. I installed the new springy round thing in the pics above.

I have not unwrapped or traced the existing horn wires.

I can't tell exactly how the wire enters the steering column to connect to that brass collar someone posted earlier.

Otto,
The horn wire exists the steering column shaft (in the engine compartment) about 3-4" inches above the steering sector (facing the motor). There is a rubber grommet in the hole to prevent damage to the horn wire.
Here is a "HOW TO REPLACE HORN WIRE)
Harold

Thanks, I'll have a l;ook later today. I suspect it isn't there or I probably would have noticed it when I was looking earlier. That's going to suck because I absolutely do not want to remove the wheel.

You can always add a horn button on the dash or the side of the steering column.

I might consider it as a temporary measure. Believe me, I use the horn more than the brakes here in Atlanta!

Interesting. No wire entered the column in the engine compartment.

I did find one going into the column under the dash about 6" down from the clamp holding the steering column to the dashboard. It's definitely original since the wire is braided cloth wrapped. There's what looks like a fusible link just as it exits the column,

.

That, which your describing as a fusible link is just a connector. Test the continuity between that connector and the steering column bearing. You may be lucky and not have to mess with pulling that wheel. You can use a nail or something conductive (solid copper wire) to go thru the hub.

Good Luck!

Otto,
The info I gave you abut the wire existing by the steering sector is for a 46. It apparently was moved for the 1950 truck. That is your horn wire. See if you have continuity between the horn wire in the engine compartment and the brass surface of the steering wheel bearing. If so you are good to go! The other wire for the horn should be "hot" 6V to complete the circuit.
The insulation on the wires looks to be in good condition. Very rare in trucks of this period.
Harold

It doesn't look like I've got continuity between the brass and either of the two wires under the hood when I used the ice pick style test light. I'll keep looking for problems.

Is the horn supposed to be live at all times or just when the ignition is on?

Otto,
The horn is hot all the time.
Does the ice pick style test light you used have a light in the handle? If so, you are using the wrong one unless somehow you ran voltage through the wire. If you do not have a volt?ohm meter, you could put 6V on the end of the wire and then ground your pic and touch the brass bearing with the pick end and if it lights up you are good. Try both wires because only one goes to the brass bearing.
Harold

Hi Harold, The ice pick tester is as you describe. I do have a volt/ohm meter as well.

What setting should I use on the volt meter? I assume touch the red wire on the meter to one of the horn wires and the black wire to the brass button?

What setting should I use on the volt meter? Set it to ohm then set the range to 1000. I assume touch the red wire on the meter to one of the horn wires and the black wire to the brass button? Correct, you may need to use a jumper wire to reach that far. If the wire is good you will see the needle on the ohm meter move. Let me know how you make out.
Harold

Okeefenokee!

Here are the two meters I used set at 2000.

Both gave me a reading of 6 ohm.

The rusty ebay horn showed up yesterday. All I needed from it was the bracket.

I cleaned that up and painted it. I'll install the horn today but I'll still have to track down the electrical problem preventing the horn from blowing. It's looking like the problem is with the wire inside the column connected to the brass collar.

I'll probably have to pull the steering wheel. On the plus side it will give me the opportunity to properly align the wheel on the column.

Why do you think the aftermarket suppliers sell reproduction horn brackets for trucks without oil filters but not for those that have oil filters? Surely the vast majority of these trucks now have oil filters whether or not they had them when new and would thus need the oil filter horn bracket.

Before you just pull the wheel and place it back where it looks centered, it’s important that the wheel is in alignment with the steering box. Turn the wheel all the way lock to lock counting turns then split the difference. That is center of the steering box and you can pull the wheel and set it straight

After that, If the wheel is not centered as you drive down the road, there is an issue with the front end. Could be worn parts or as simple as both tie rod ends were not moved at the same time when doing the toe in adjustment

There is a section in the Chevrolet Truck Shop Manual that covers this and replacement of the upper bearing.
[LINK]

Phil,
I am looking for that bracket. Any idea where I can find one?
Thanks,
JD

I installed the bracket and horn but still have to track down the electrical problem. It does indeed appear to be inside the column. Probably the wire came off the brass bushing.

In the meantime, The truck is being used this week to haul furniture from a storage unit to a friend's new apartment. He'll be bringing it back later this week and I'll continue working on it.

JD, I purchased this rusty crap horn on ebay just to get the bracket. Keep looking there. One of the places that sells salvage parts for these trucks might have one.

My next option was going to be to purchase one of the regular brackets from a restoration parts supplier and make a base for it out of an angle bracket or something.

The problem with that is that the oil filter horn bracket is not just a "Z" shaped piece of metal. It angles to the right as it steps up to move the horn away from the engine and fuel lines.