The Stovebolt Site Forums The Parking Lot Big Bolts 216 engine reassembly

Hi, quick question. This the first time I have reassembled a car engine. I’m reassembling my 216 from a 1947 4400. I’m starting to tighten the mains. I can turn the crank over, but with effort. Before I go farther, how much resistance on turn the crank is acceptable? Thanks, Matt

There is a process of using plasti-gauge, machinist dye, and scraping for each main bearing and each babbitt bearing. It is not that awful hard, you just need to follow the process. Hot Rod Lincoln can explain it best and there may even be a tech tip for it. I am not that good at doing this. It is much easier if you have your babbitt rods machined to accept bearings.

Main bearings are precision fitted- - - -DO NOT do any scraping! Babbit connecting rods can be scrape-fitted and then shimmed for the proper clearance. Use shims between the main bearing caps and the engine block to get the proper clearance, usually between .001" and .003". "Less is better" as long as there's enough clearance for oil to get in there and lubricate the bearing. I prefer to use a narrow piece of shim stock between the bearing and the crankshaft instead of plastigauge. For instance, place a piece of .001" shim stock about 1/4" wide between the bearing and the crankshaft, and add shims between the cap and the block until the crankshaft can be turned with a moderate amount of drag. Then remove the checking shim and move on to the next bearing. Fit the bearings BEFORE installing the rope oil seal, as it will give you a false drag indication to deal with. The main bearing shim set that appears to be one thick piece is actually 5 thin layers glued together. Each layer is about .0005" thick. Use a razor blade or an X-Acto knife to peel individual layers apart.

After you make 2 or 3 more posts you will have access to the private message function of the site. Send me a PM once you're off "moderation" and we can discuss things in more detail by PM or phone. There are a few other very important assembly techniques for a Babbit connecting rod engine that MUST be followed to assure the engine survives the first startup after an overhaul. Good luck!
Jerry

With no pistons installed yet, it should spin over freely. My plastigauge rule of thumb is 1.5 thou. Depends on your assembly lube too. If you put a lot in there it will seem to have more drag.

He hasn't been back on this thread in nearly a month. There's a definite sequence to assembling the bottom end of a 216, and doing it the way an engine without shimmed rod and main bearings is done will almost guarantee a massive failure shortly after startup. If we don't get any response soon, I'm going to assume the OP doesn't want our advice. He's picked one of the most difficult projects imaginable for his "first car engine".
Jerry