The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 216 oil line thru engine block to rocker arm

After trying heavy monofilament fishing line and compressed air, I still couldn't clear the oil line that goes to the rocker arm, so I pulled it and mangled it while doing so. I have a new one from Jim Carter.
What should I use to seal the threads on the brass fittings that go into the engine block? Shop manual says to use white lead, is that the same as plumber's putty?
Also, what should I put on the new freeze plugs before installing them?
Thank you for the help.

White lead is basically solder. There is another thread on the same subject posted just a few days ago. Search is your friend.

“Oil Tube” by 37 barnfind

Lead carbonate mixed with linseed oil- - - -it's been listed as a health hazard for years and banned from industrial use. Ditto for "red lead" which is lead oxide powder and oil. Use a little Permatex Super 300 or any kind ot pipe sealer dope instead. The "kit" that at least one vendor is selling won't work- - - -the oil line won't clear the pushrod cover once all the fittings are stacked together.
Jerry

Unfortunately I messed up the copper line several weeks ago. Just now getting around to installing the new one. The fittings that came with the replacement line appear to be the similar the ones from the old line. Do the threads on the fittings that go into the block need to have something applied to them to seal up? I read the thread from a few days ago (very informative) but I didn't see what to seal the threads with.

Thank you Hotrod. I'll get some Permatex Super 300. Would that work on the freeze plugs too?
My engine is a 37 and the diagram from the previous thread looks just like the one in my shop manual. I didn't have any trouble fishing the copper line through the block.
The front freeze plug had a hole in it and was leaking a little coolant. I pulled both of them out and the rear one had so much gunk behind it that it looked solid. Nothing came out of the lower drain plug when I removed it.
I used a pressure washer in the holes and a length of speedometer cable on a drill and finally got the lower drain working. I don't think the coolant had ever been drained from the engine before.
With all the thick greasy sludge in the lubrication system and the crud in the coolant system its a wonder that the engine was running at all. I hope it runs again when I get it all put back together.

I prefer to use brass freeze plugs- - - -they don't corrode away nearly as fast as steel ones. Yes, a little Super 300 works to seal the freeze plugs, too, and it works antwhere that a cork or paper gasket is needed. Greasy crud can be cleaned out of a cooling system by running a strong solution of Tridsodium Phosphate and water in the cooling system, getting the engine up to operating temperature for 30 minutes or so, draining and flushing with clean water. Follow up with a 50/50 antifreeze/water mix. TSP (concrete cleaner) can be purchased at virtually any big box hardware store, or on Ebay or most other online sources.
Jerry

I talked to the Filling Station about the chain of fittings being too long and told them about Jerrys solution.
They were unaware of the problem. I also suggested that they monitor Stovebolt forums to keep up with
issues we are having with our trucks.
John

Good on ya for following up with the vendor. The only way they have to resolve such problems is to get feedback from the people who are using their products, as a large majority of the guys selling the parts aren't old enough to have actually worked on these old rigs when they were daily drivers. Another sneaky trick is to use a piece of 3/32" oxy-acetylene welding rod as a probe to reach through the water jacket, then slip the end of the copper tube over the welding rod to guide it from side to side.
Jerry