The Stovebolt Site Forums The Shop Area Engine Shop 1954 235

Need help! Had a cracked block in my perfect running 216. Replaced the motor with a 1954 235 from a BelAir. The engine was professionally rebuilt. Engine runs great, but once its warmed up, at high rpm and load it sputters and hesitates. Drives me nuts. Timing checked, electronic ignition (6V). Runs great up to about 40-45 mph, then sputters. Vacuum advance? Distributor? Valve adjustment? All components have been rebuilt and/or replaced. Rebuilt single barrel Rochester, new fuel pump. I would love to be able to fully enjoy my truck again without swearing. Spent too much money to have it act this way. I do have a second distributor from the old motor that I could swap. Any suggestions? Shops don't understand fuel, spark, air without a computer. Need suggestions from old bolters. Thanks!

You described the problem in two words- - - -"electronic ignition". The only company I'm aware of that offers a 6V model is Pertronix, and their products are notorious for gremlins like you're describing. Trash the ignition system and go back to a conventional set of points and an OEM style Delco-Remy coil. Change points every 10K miles and enjoy your ride!
Jerry

Maybe try a different distributor. I had a similar problem with a very nice, very low mileage original 235 that I put into my 53 3/4 ton. It would start and run, but just stumbled and hesitated and would not rev up. After going through all of the usual suspects (timing, carb, fuel pump, plugs/ wires, etc.), I decided to swap the distributor--bam, it ran like a champ and has ever since. I believe a worn shaft can cause the distributor to wobble and create very inconsistent timing (knowledgeable old timers can provide more details or a more accurate description of the problem).

Best wishes, and let us know when/ how you fix it!

I am having the same problem. Anybody have any suggestions where I can find a distributor?

Cardone will rebuild your distributor. They also sell new ones.

https://www.cardone.com/Search?criteria=%22%22&caryear=1954&carmake=Chevrolet&carmodel=Truck&carparttype=Ignition&ymmsearch=true&carengine=3.8L%20L6%20235ci%203852cc


The new dizzy and/or rebuild service can be purchased through Rock Auto. New ones are about $100.

I used Cardone's service for the dizzy in the Galaxie 500's 289. That was about 10 or 12 years ago and no probs.

For the benefit of all who are following this post, what does a person need to be aware of regarding the replacement distributor and the gear that meshes with the camshaft? Was there more than one distributor gear material and applicable for only certain years?

The forged steel cams from the 216's and early 235's used a different distributor gear material than the later model 235's with a cast iron cam. I believe only one type of replacement gear was offered by GM to service all the distributors, regardless of age.
Jerry

Here is a picture of the gears used.

Awesome information, thanks Hotrod, thanks Pre "68 Dave.

The Pieman must have gotten waylaid by Simple Simon. He hasn't been back since posting the question.

tricordati In all this distributor talk no mentionn of the GM HEI conversions,that is all I use in the 4 I have running. Not a hard job to switch and is powerful long lasting accurate ignition my 2 cents worth. Have some running since 82.

Pieman Use what I use HEI tough,permanent,powerful,any FLAPS can help. Stay away from offshore new ones find used domestic distributor can modify with tools you probably have now. My 4 all run fine,watch for interference on the hight of it to the side of your engine. You'll be amazed how tough these are,never wear out of spec. Get one not computer controlled is just a complication you don't need.

I have another distributor and I think I have a coil. I will try the swap.



Thanks! JS

Might be nice to have a thread on the HEI conversion for the 235 and 261. Photos, wiring diagram, parts list, modifications to make it even better. I have never run one, always points or a Vertex Magneto but I know they are a really good reliable ignition.

Don't mean to ruffle feathers here but I want to have a bit of fun and provide a counter point of view.

The high energy part, of a High Energy Ignition, is an overkill. The stock coil produces all you need plus more for our I6 engines.
A typical HEI (GM made 250 I6 for example), that is GM tested and works well, is made for a 12 volt system so the HEI conversion now requires a truck 6 to 12 volt conversion (or HEI 12 to 6 volt adaption).
Well that's an unfortunate cost increase.

Shouldn't the focus be on the part that wears and has to be replaced periodically?
So, a replacement for mechanical ignition contacts that:

Works well on 6 volts.
Is self contained (doesn't need an ugly firewall mounted module and extra wiring).
Is easy to install.
Has a reasonable cost.
Doesn't fail if ignition keyswitch is accidentally left on.
Is absolutely known reliable.

The competing factor or logic for the focus above:
A truck that is frequently used may see 15,000 miles before the contacts need replacement. Lets say 10,000 miles so we have extra protection.
Lets buy 5 sets of contacts today at $20 each. Skip that, add inflation, 5 sets at $30 each for $150 total.
I religiously change the contacts out every 10,000 miles (even though it's a hassle why my big belly).
That's 50,000 miles for $150 (hmmm, my truck may outlive me before it sees that many miles).

Well I'm senior, can someone please explain it to me again why my old truck needs HEI?

It doesn't. Nor does it need a Pertronix or Mallory or anything else.

All of my vehicles that came with breaker points still have them. They all work flawlessly and never fail.

My '56 Coupe de Ville has been my true daily driver for over 20 years. I've put over 100,000 miles on it. In that time it has had 3 sets of points max. It might actually be only two.

With a fully charged battery, properly functioning voltage regulator and generator, breaker points last practically forever with very little wear. They don't abruptly fail the way electronic ignition will.