I have a 1961 261 installing in a 1946 1/2 ton. I am trying to keep it as original as possible. I have the aft engine mount bolts installed and tight. The front mount is off. The engine looks straight. I need to drill the holes for the forward mount but one of the bolts goes through at the bend. Do I need to some how install the front mount bolts to where it is on the straight part under the timing cover and then install the aft mounts? I would think it would be easier and aligned with the 2 aft bolts installed. Or do I need another front mount designed for the 261? I thought they were all the same? We used the old mount as a template to get it close. I removed the front mount top cover trying to get a better picture. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Hank
Loosen the rear mount bolts, line up the front bolt holes, drop the front bolts in, tighten the rear mounts and the front mount. An eighth inch misalignment at the rear mounts could easily throw the front off as much as pictured. The mounts are molded rubber; lots of room for error there. The frame could be sprung or misaligned from the factory enough to do that even if you carefully centered the rear bolts in their respective holes. There's lots of room for slop here to make it work. Also remember that you may have to shim the front motor mount to get the u-joint angles equal if you have an open drive line. It the angles aren't equal the u-joints will fight each other and vibrate. Spicer spec. is 1 degree for trucks 1/2 degree for motorhomes. Shim accordingly.
1951 3800 1-ton "Earning its keep from the get-go" In the DITY Gallery 1962 261 (w/cam, Fenton headers, 2 carbs, MSD ign.), SM420 & Brown-Lipe 6231A 3spd aux. trans, stock axles & brakes. Owned since 1971.
Loosen the rear mount bolts, line up the front bolt holes, drop the front bolts in, tighten the rear mounts and the front mount. An eighth inch misalignment at the rear mounts could easily throw the front off as much as pictured. The mounts are molded rubber; lots of room for error there. The frame could be sprung or misaligned from the factory enough to do that even if you carefully centered the rear bolts in their respective holes. There's lots of room for slop here to make it work. Also remember that you may have to shim the front motor mount to get the u-joint angles equal if you have an open drive line. It the angles aren't equal the u-joints will fight each other and vibrate. Spicer spec. is 1 degree for trucks 1/2 degree for motorhomes. Shim accordingly.
Thank you 1tontommy and buoyermaker for the information. I will try loosen the rears and try to shift the front.
I loosened the 2 rear bolts and wow didn't realize that would make that much of a difference. I will install the top part and get it closer. Probably drop the drivers side bolt in and will have to remove the pulley and stuff to get the passenger side bolt in since it doesn't have the height to slide that bolt in. Atleast that is what we had to do to get the bolt out of the 216. Thanks for all the help. Hank
