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#1449278 04/25/2022 1:27 AM
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6 volt original 1939 turn signals blink extremely fast. Is there a way to slow them down?

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1449285 04/25/2022 2:24 AM
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First replace the bulbs, then report. Observe for any corrosion down inside sockets.

Of course we assume all was well and working fine, then it happened. If there is a story regarding work done or new parts of any kind. We need that info. Don't make us drag it out of you smile
"Original" indicates an old aftermarket clamp-on-the-column switch with old wiring and old flasher and no fuses.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1449300 04/25/2022 10:31 AM
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1939 Chevrolet turn signal switch, flasher has been replaced. I used 1939 Chevrolet fog lights as my front turn signals. Vintage Arrow turn signals in rear. Has blinked too fast from day 1. All wiring is new. Bulbs when flashing are bright. Left and right turn signals blink the same. I'll have to take the units apart to drag the bulb and flasher part numbers out of me.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1449322 04/25/2022 1:46 PM
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You did use a 6v flasher unit, yes? 6v bulbs draw more current than 12v bulbs and if used with a 12v flasher the heater element (bi-metal) in the 12v flasher might be heating up and flicking off/on too rapidly. That's my first guess. Even if the flasher you bought is marked as 6v, it might have been made in a 5-letter country beginning with the letters CH which isn't CHILE. Look at the embarrassingly dismal job they've done with a simple product like automobile condensers.

The fog lights might be part of the problem. Small chance they don't draw enough current to cause the flasher to work right. If the flasher sees a burned out bulb, it goes wonky. Not to bore, but there's a bi-metal strip and contact points in there. As it is activated in the circuit, resistance causes it to heat. One side of it bows in more than the other side and that causes it to go arc-shaped and pull the points apart. That's all that's happening in there, but it must be the proper flasher for the current (amperage) pulling through it.

Just an outside thought, but was there any chance these were LED bulbs? Maybe 2 of them were LED bulbs? Vintage type flasher units can see those as being burned out (since their current usage is much lower) and this can cause erratic flashing. If you're using a 6v flasher and this problem started from day one and the lights never blinked correctly before that certain point, it hints there is a bulb problem...but honestly it seems to me kind of a stretch unless it emanates from your fog lights. What I mean is if both right and left side are blinking rapidly, then there has to be a lack of connection or bulb problem on both sides. If the wiring is new, the bulbs are correct for the sockets and the flasher rating and the sockets are good and clean, the coincidence factor drops a lot. One bulb on one side might be failing to connect, but two is a stretch.

And the dead horse has been beaten here quite a lot, but ground connection is very important. An intermittent ground connection will cause this, but you may not have brightness when that's happening. An intermittent ground connection normally will cause a bulb to flicker dimly and then maybe catch and burn ok for a bit and then go dim again.

One more idea...and this is a thought from distant past...was it a heavy duty flasher? A friend in high school had this happen and it turned out the heavy duty flasher was the problem. As I recall with only 2 bulbs per side it didn't get enough current draw to flash right. If you suspect this, you could connect an extra bulb (or two) to both sides of the wiring (left and right) and see what happens. Or...if your flasher has the option of hazard lights, flash all 4 at once. That might provide enough current for you. Good luck.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
rickmg #1449323 04/25/2022 2:00 PM
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I found new 6-volt flashers would flasher way too fast when I was still at 6-volts. I found a used flasher installed in an AD in the junkyard and it still worked perfectly.


1948 3/4-Ton 5-Window Flatbed Chevrolet

34 Years. Now with a '61 261, 848 head, Rochester Monojet carb, SM420 4-speed, 4.10 rear, dual reservoir MC, Bendix up front, 235/85R16 tires, 12-volt w/alternator, electric wipers and a modern radio in the glove box.
rickmg #1449326 04/25/2022 2:22 PM
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6 volt bulbs, 6 volt nos flasher, no LEDs. Jon and Wally you have given me some pointers, thank you.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1449332 04/25/2022 3:32 PM
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Anytime, Rick. I may have a flasher unit saved from an early 50s Cadillac (6v). I'll look for it later.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
rickmg #1449335 04/25/2022 3:52 PM
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Those fog lamps would require MORE current, not less than regular turn signal lamps. More current = faster flashing on old-style bi-metallic strip flashers.


'57 GMC 102, Original 347 V8, HydraMatic, 3.08 rear gear, added A/C, disk front brakes, HEI, AFB carb, '98 Honda Black Currant paint. T-boned and totaled 10/12
'52 GMC 152 Stake Bed, Original 228, SM420, added A/C, HEI, disk front brakes, '67 Chev 3.55 rear gear. Gets used as a real truck.
rickmg #1449365 04/25/2022 6:01 PM
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Any change in current that the flasher is designed for will cause the fast flash. Many reasons for incorrect current. If both left and right turn circuits have fast flash, it is not a bulb or it's a bulb on each side. If bulbs are all good, next is flasher, intermittent current or ground, switch.

I don't know how long ago "Day 1" was, or if it means Day 1 of your purchase of the truck, or some other Day 1. It may indicate someone originally used a wrong component. I see the flasher has been replaced. If the flasher type is the problem, and someone used the old flasher part number to get another, the fast flash would continue.

We can't say fog light uses more current, we don't know what bulb is in there.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
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My only experience with 6 volt to 12 was a heater motor. The 6-volt heater ran extremely fast on 12-volt, turn it down to low and it barely turned over.


Ron, The Computer Greek
I love therefore I am.
1954 3100 Chevy truck
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rickmg #1449385 04/25/2022 9:05 PM
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Day 1 was over 30 years ago. I've owned this truck since 1977. Restored/rebuilt it November 1977-June 1978. I installed turn signals on it because todays drivers don't have a clue what hand signals are. The switch is vintage 1939 Chevrolet accessory. I probably used the same flasher part number as the original.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1449387 04/25/2022 9:20 PM
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Hi Rick,
That switch and system was originally designed for rear turn signals only (as I recall). I think turn signals for front and rear didn't come along until 40 or maybe 41. Did you adapt it to use the fog lights as additional turn signals (up front)?


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
rickmg #1449418 04/26/2022 12:39 AM
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Good point Jon G. If a person adds another bulb to the old system of rear only, it would change the resistance/current draw and fast flash. Maybe rick can post the flasher PN if it's still visible on the flasher can. Then we can all check that out and guide him to a different one to try. The flashers are kind of a specific design for a certain system. The strip has to heat and cool under a fairly precise load.

For Reference: The no.1 cause is bulbs. A person could experiment and take one front bulb out and test blink. Compare speed to the other side.

Rick: You have great patience to last over 30 years with fast flash. Is there a chance it is "normal" since there is no way to know what normal is for a 1939 Chevy? Is it strobe light fast/hyper fast............ or kind of fast compared to something?


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1449429 04/26/2022 1:10 AM
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It flashes like a strobe. I would manually manipulate the switch on and off. 1939 trucks used the same parking/turn signal light on the front fender as the passenger cars. Looked like something out of star wars. 1940 trucks they were much smaller. I couldn't bring myself to drill holes in the top of my nos fenders to mount them, so I used 1939 Chevrolet fog lights instead. I'll see if there is a part number on the flasher unit. There was no return to neutral position, off, after turning back then. You have to remember to return it to the off position.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1449432 04/26/2022 1:35 AM
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No problem with the fog lights. Good idea. Probably looks era correct. Do that experiment above to get some feedback for the troubleshoot archives.
You will want a 535 flasher relay.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1449530 04/26/2022 7:06 PM
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Hi Rick,
The self-cancelling feature came along in 1941 it seems. I would first figure out which bulbs you're using (1156, 1157 or whatever) and then start figuring out the current draw, candlepower, whatever. Then we can figure out which flasher you need.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
rickmg #1449546 04/26/2022 9:13 PM
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1156, 1157 are 12V bulbs. Lets don't confuse the poor guy. He needs a TF535 flasher.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1449560 04/26/2022 10:55 PM
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My goodness. Let's get the cart and horse in the proper order, okay? He is using a flasher that currently doesn't work correctly and he had another one in 1977 that didn't work correctly that he's been using since then. We have no idea what that flasher is, and that's an important variable. Whatever bulbs are in use is another very important variable. My information says in 1939 there were no front end flasher fixtures in use by GM (only rear ones) and if that information is correct, the flasher would have been designed to only flash one bulb at a time. But Rick says he has 2 on each side. Another variable and another question mark. If all you have is variables, no equation can be solved...by anyone.


~ Jon
1952 1/2 ton with 1959 235 | T5 with 3.07 rear end
rickmg #1449574 04/26/2022 11:57 PM
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Now, now folks anything can be solved. The flasher being used is a Tungsol 229D Pat. No. 1979349. I'll have to take the bulbs out of the turn signals/fog lights to get the numbers off of them. Just a thought, can a resister solve the problem? The flasher has 3 electrical connectors. I am deeply respectful to your input.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1449582 04/27/2022 12:14 AM
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Rick, you don't need a resistor. Good job on reporting the flasher.
You are not really after the bulb number. It is a 6V bulb or it would have burnt out already. To save some work and time. just buy a 535 flasher and plug it in. It is also a 3 prong flasher. If it solves the problem, you are done.
If not, you will have to check the bulbs AND their sockets.

FLASHER HOOK UP:
X= TO BATTERY
L= TO TURN SIGNAL SWITCH
P= TO "PILOT LIGHT"/INDICATOR ON TURN SIGNAL SWITCH........ If you have other indicators somewhere, that could cause a problem.

By the way, the turn signal switch/clamp needs good ground to column.

I think the only place to get that same flasher is used or N.ew O.ld S.tock. Don't bother, neither option is reliable. It is a genuine GM Part. Advertised as 46-54/49-54


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1449590 04/27/2022 1:00 AM
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I took off the lenses, the front bulb is TS1129, rear bulb is T63. I added a ground wire, no change. My electrical system is 6V. See no need to change it. Now to locate a 535 flasher.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
bartamos #1449592 04/27/2022 1:16 AM
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Originally Posted by bartamos
By the way, the turn signal switch/clamp needs good ground to column.

If you don't, and you tend to hang your arm out the window, you can feel a buzz on your arm where it touches the window opening. Every time the bulbs light up. Especially, if you're like me and keep your hand on your turn signal switch so that you remember to cancel after a turn. Don't ask me how I know.

rickmg #1449610 04/27/2022 2:40 AM
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Yes Buy a 535 and 4 new 1129 bulbs also. (NAPA)...........T63 no good. Not bright. 1129 may not fit rear housing (vintage arrow). It's taller and larger diameter, So try the 1129 you have in that vintage arrow light.

Not sure what "added a ground wire means" or where you added. Just make sure socket inside is shinny metal. Make sure it's housing is clean bolted to chassis/body. Probably OK since they have all been blinking, albeit fast.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1451400 05/11/2022 10:26 PM
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Update

Changed all the bulbs. Did not fix problem. Made a different mounting system to steering column and checked ground. Did not fix problem. Rewired the switch to accept a 535 Flasher. Lo and behold, problem fixed.

Thanks for your input

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck
rickmg #1451439 05/12/2022 8:28 AM
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thumbs_up Thank you for the update. There are some who never let us know results.


Right is right, even if everyone is against it, and wrong is wrong, even if everyone is for it. - William Penn
rickmg #1451545 05/13/2022 12:53 PM
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More info. I have the original instructions on how to install the 1939 Turn Signal. The switch can be configured for either 4 or 2 bulb installation. The fog lights I used were 1939 Chevrolet Fog Lights Part No. 985444 Single, 985445 Double. Price $4.25 and $8.25. Turn Signal Part No. 985257, $11.

Rick


1939 Chevrolet Stake Truck

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